Alabama thread!

Mornin fellas

 

This is the missing links I made for the front of mine, with the pin in they function like normal, pull the pin and it gives you a little more droop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tN6TUt0Jms

Here is some on the rear of a Toyota

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz5OqNIbmtw

 

I got my suspension installed with my brother this weekend and got the alignment this morning. Everything is working great so far! I am probably going to run up to Talladega on Saturday for a quick test run if anyone wants to go.

Picture dump!

 

How does something like this work with tuned suspension? I’m guessing slow crawling, pins out, you’re not going to be noticing much shock valving anyway. Bypasses would be picky, but would remote resi shocks be? Don’t guess it would matter much. Not going to be going fast with the pins out, right?

 

Yup

 

WOW that’s a cool chair

 

Any tunable shock can be tuned to it. Some just make more sense than others.

 

So Sexy

I almost bought one of those a few months ago.

 

The same as any normal suspension. Only bypasses would be affected. This is a packaging constraint solution to take full advantage of a shocks total travel. So unpinned all you'll be doing is using the last bit of droop in a shock. If you had some crazy bypasses you'd need to tune the bypass at that point if it doesn't get to it pinned.

Personally I wouldn't run bypasses on a DD they clickity clackity a lot.

RR are just a non-emulsion shock. The resi holds a little oil but that is where the nitrogen is held to keep pressure on the oil.

 

These would be for crawling, shock wouldn't matter.

 

they matter when you have to back up a foot and bump it

 

Yeah I don’t think bypasses would do very well for me. I change weight around too much. Definitely some options out there. I like the idea of having more droop on demand. Couldn’t tell from the videos but if you’re unpinned and going fast-ish, does the drop out want to happen from the “regular” travel first or from the movement in the missing links?

trying to wrap my head around the shackle being free to move and the leafs having resistance and how that affects ride quality when cycling back up from full droop.

 

I'll try and explain it. So the shackle that gets pinned we'll call that one the secondary and the one that moves during regular driving we'll call that the primary to keep the explanation streamlined.

So during normal driving the primary shackle moves in it's arch and everthing acts as normal. If you unpin the secondary shackle it won't move until the primary acts on it. The primary acting on the secondary and when that would come into play all depends on the angle in which you set the primary, how long it is, the swing, ratio of the primary to secondary, weight of the unsprung weight., spring arch, etc.

So take Jeff's set up on the front of his Sami. The primary is almost at a 90* angle so his secondary if left unpinned would move almost immediately. If I had the missing ling shackles on mine where my primaries are at approx 25* angle and move to about an 80* angle if I left the secondary unpinned the secondary would probably start to move before the primary is at it's max but I'd still get some swing in droop of the primary before the secondary moves.

Hope all that makes sense. If you need a diagram I can try and draw it to explain.

 

I'd argue slow crawling it matters as well. Too soft and the spring oscillations are not controlled even slow to stiff and it can act like you added some spring rate and also not allow the suspension to articulate as well or freely would be a better description.

 

That's not a knoife. THIS is a knoife!

 

Late thanks to @ty.s07 for some awesome projector lights that are definitely going in my dclb when I order some bulbs/ballast.

and these spidertrax for the rc, ordered a set of studs to replace the one broken one always great to meet new tw peeps!

 

Dats a beut Clark

 

That makes more sense now. I need to research it some more though. I would just want it to be controlled, not flopping around dependent on the shocks valving to keep it in check if that makes sense. I see how the angles would play a big part in that though. In my mind I see it like links in a bike chain and just free to move however it wants, but I know that can’t be right haha

 

Interesting point. I watched some Australian offroad video where he hit a hill normally and then took out his shocks and hit it just on his coils. Way better traction with dampening haha

 

On droop it can act like that. So like my shackle angle the secondary will start coming into play before the primary is fully at it's drooped point. At higher speed bumps I'd suspect it could be sooner. I don't know though that is taking some theory and applying it without actually testing I couldn't be for sure if that is what would happen.