Alabama thread!

Clean inside with the normal wear on the seats but no tears. Drove like it has 1k miles. I might offer way less

 

Check the NADA. I know people say certain vehicles are worth more than that...….but I will not pay more than NADA. I paid less than NADA for my Tacoma. Also, make sure the timing belt has been changed. I think it's an every 80 or 90K thing

 

12,875 is NADA

 

Then that would be my "roof" personally. Especially if I don't "need" it

 

Counting down the minutes

 

I've been doing that for hours 50 more minutes and I'm done til June 9th

 

Be careful bending those back and make sure the LCA mounts are 100% before welding on the gussets. There are recent reports of those kits not fitting 100% and making the truck difficult to align properly. Could have been user error though from welding them on bent mounts, but who knows. Only issue I have seen from them. I’m still getting the MC gussets either way.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/page-281

 

Sup Trey

 

Been out of the loop for a bit but yesterday I went ahead and added the overlays and tailgate decals...

 

Sup David

 

Man i thought about it but i just dumped $$$$$ on a ring for Anna so spending another grand right now would be a bad idea lol. The gussets will do for now. Ive got plans for the truck once we get another vehicle that i can build a trailer for.

 

Damn that sounds killer I’m on nights till Monday morning

Yea I can understand that lol, what ideas you got for it then?

 

Thanks, I hadn't seen in that thread yet. I saw some ppl talking the the Frame Brace thread about issues with it bending theirs alot when they welded it and causing alignment issues. Mine didn't fit right as well. I had to do some grinding on them. Last night was the test fit and grind phase. When i actually put them on im going to jump around so they can cool before welding long beads. Think i might try to leave arms on even though lots of ppl took them off. Seems like there needs to be pressure of the bolt pulling the tabs together when you weld? Any way one thing i dont like that i am going to cut off is the front brace wraps around and touches the front diff mount, also makes it almost impossible to get to that top bolt . Ill probably cut that slightly.

 

37's Tundra rack Gussets for everything. Possibly crawl box down the road.

 

Could also get some good tacks with the LCAs on then pull them off to weld. Best of both worlds

 

Sup Phillip

 

So I’ve been on the fence for a while about getting a modular rack. My truck already has a 2 1/2 inch lift with a leveling kit on it. I wanted it for two reasons one is a kayak the other is tent. I’m wondering if I just get the bars (which is a bit cheaper) would be just as good or better. I do have a retractable bed cover. Any suggestions or thoughts ?

 

True, well see. anyways defiantly need them. Tabs were bent pretty rough.

 

When you say retractable do you mean like a retrax hard cover or is it a trifold, soft cover etc? Most bed covers will not work with bed bars or racks by themselves. You would need some tonnaue cover adapters. I have a bed rack that mounts on the inside of my bedrails so i was able to get it to work with my rack. (Pic below) If your hauling kayaks then you might want a full height rack that is cab height. @baldridge does something like this i think. Might want to look at a roof rack as well.

 

This was my old set up. I had a OEM roof rack with Thule foot pack, Thule Hullavator and Mid Height KBV bed rack. Worked great. I’ve had the KBV hi rise bars which worked fine but didn’t like tent so low. I moved to a mid height and now have a full height. My kayak set up sucks now! I have a Martin off road rack and the full height rack to accommodate decked with fridge. I have no idea what I’m going to do about kayak. I’ve been looking for a small cheap trailer to convert to Kayak trailer. I suggest get what you want from start but everyone will tell you it will change.

mid height


full height