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Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by bjmoose, May 24, 2011.

  1. Sep 16, 2013 at 11:22 AM
    #181
    Texasdynaryder

    Texasdynaryder Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I forgot to mention this but it is the driver side.
     
  2. Sep 16, 2013 at 11:55 AM
    #182
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    Yeah figured that from the picture. Looks like its the -1 balljoint setting, giving you +1* of total caster.. let me go out and check mine .. but pretty sure mine is the opposite which is +1 balljoint, +3* total caster.

    Which as of now seems to be good for me. Im at 3" of lift with new 285/70/17 toyo ATII's. No rubbing, but gonna do some more articulation testing, while backing up specifically.

    EDIT: son of a bitch... lol. I was reading mine wrong. Mine is set to what yours is..

    This:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2013
  3. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:26 PM
    #183
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Mine are set at position "E." When I had them set to position "C" I got gobs of caster which made the truck track rock solid - but lost clearance and rubbed the wheel well while the steering wheel was turned to full lock in reverse (aka every time backing out of a parking place.)
     
  4. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:31 PM
    #184
    Texasdynaryder

    Texasdynaryder Well-Known Member

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    Well now that looking at it front the top view I'm in the C setting. I need to get my front end checked cause I am road walking bad. You like your setting being at the E setting-1.0
     
  5. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:41 PM
    #185
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    I've given up on trying to look at a picture and assess what they're set at. Too difficult to say and the camera's shooting from a single angle that isn't obvious once the picture's taken.

    Yeah, I'd say go with position "D" or "E." My experience is that position "C" doesn't work out so well - you can read my original post on this thread for the complete story.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:21 PM
    #186
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    Thanks Moose!! :thumbsup:

    Yeah mine were originally set at the neutral setting. Had rubbing issues at the back of the fender. adjusted the UCA's to the where they are now (E) and had rubbing issues at the front of the fender. After a few visits to firestone and eventually going to a different location, they got mr 3.1* of caster and it drives great now with no rubbing.
     
  7. Oct 14, 2013 at 7:46 AM
    #187
    JohnnyWayne

    JohnnyWayne The Past Through Tomorrow

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    Great thread, going to have to go with UCA's after my lift and the info here is much appreciated :thumbsup:
     
  8. Oct 14, 2013 at 3:32 PM
    #188
    09Tacomania

    09Tacomania Well-Known Member

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    Good luck Pilgrim.......:D
     
  9. Oct 14, 2013 at 7:38 PM
    #189
    JackTRD

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  10. Oct 15, 2013 at 8:27 PM
    #190
    BBtacosurfer

    BBtacosurfer Well-Known Member

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    I had mine set at the E setting and had just enough clearance in the wheel well to avoid any rubbing (with the CMC). I adjusted my drivers side coilover 1/4" to compensate for the taco lean and now I rub on the drivers side in full lock reverse. I'm gonna get an alignment because I noticed the steering wheel isn't set straight on either. I probably shouldve just left the coilover set at what it was but the taco lean was killing me and now I need an alignment haha
     
  11. Nov 11, 2013 at 4:41 AM
    #191
    MrFastener

    MrFastener Fastener Tech

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    3" Toytec Ultimate Adj coil over lift with light racing UCA's, Nittos, remote res rear shocks,

    Max, I realize this is an old post but the info is probably needed almost daily by issues resulting from new owners / members installing lifts etc.
    **I did the Toytec adjustable 3" coilover lift and the light racing uppers on a 2013 4x4 Dbl Taco. Their info had a max tire suggestion of 285/75/16. Even at 2.9 of caster, ( First using all the lowers could provide before going upstairs to the LR uppers for more) my uppers come into contact with the Nitto 285/75/16 on stock TRD beadlock wheels on sharp turns. The only option was to install the Spidertraxx 11/4 wheel spacers to bring the wheels out.
    Now, forward is fine but reverse has fender rubb like yours did. Even after some aggressive plastic trimming on a 2013.. My question is, when you got yours done to where you lost the fender rub, you reduced your caster but didn't say to what number. I'm at 2.9 x 2.9 on caster and the ride is much better but I have that damn reverse rub. Do you or anyone who had the same problem have any suggestions besides tire size reductions? I followed Toytec's site and went with their stuff and their safe tire size suggestion. Maybe these 2013's have a different front fender measurement or something. Anyone else been thru this??
     
  12. Nov 12, 2013 at 4:16 PM
    #192
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    I recently go my LR UCAs and there's a groove that goes around the pivot sleeve 3/8" from the end of the pivot sleeve on only one side. Is there a certain direction that this groove needs to go? Or just grease the bushing, push it in, and call it good?
     
  13. Nov 12, 2013 at 4:47 PM
    #193
    4OYOTER

    4OYOTER Well-Known Member

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    That groove is your camber adjustment. I would recommend torquing it down about 1/4th of the way towards your engine bay. That should put the caster adjustment plate just slightly inward of sitting flush with your UCA. (Hope that makes sense) Whoever does your alignment may need to adjust it, but that position is where mine are at and my camber is good.
     
  14. Nov 12, 2013 at 4:56 PM
    #194
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    I'm not seeing how it adjusts the camber... I though that was all in the LCA?
    [​IMG]

    We might be talking about two different parts? I'm looking at the silver sleeve in this picture (4 of them) and 3/8" from the end (and only one side) of each of the sleeves there is a groove that goes around the sleeve in a ring. I'll try to upload a picture of the actual one.
     
  15. Nov 12, 2013 at 5:12 PM
    #195
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    20131112_180845_zps6a44f519_52984d9dfd57f112e064405b9604e38a6f71eca8.jpg
    Here's the part I'm talking about and the groove on it.
     
  16. Nov 12, 2013 at 5:19 PM
    #196
    4OYOTER

    4OYOTER Well-Known Member

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    My bad, definitely a different groove. I didn't even notice those when I installed mine. No idea which way I installed them.
     
  17. Nov 12, 2013 at 6:03 PM
    #197
    AWF ROWD

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  18. Nov 13, 2013 at 3:36 AM
    #198
    Drunknsloth

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    I'm guessing it doesn't matter since the instructions don't mention it but I just want to make sure, being OCD and all :rolleyes: Haha
     
  19. Nov 13, 2013 at 4:52 AM
    #199
    MrFastener

    MrFastener Fastener Tech

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    JP, I have the exact issue on a 2013. Mine is a TXPro and came with 265/70/16, no rub. I added the Toytec Adj coilover and light racing uppers with Nitto 285/75/16 and the uppers were snagging the tires at sharp curves. Tried several alignment settings and same issue. I then went with spidertraxx spacers 11/4. The spacers fixed the "UCA" rubb but now I have both front and rear fender rubb. I can't believe I added 3" in lift , LR uppers, 11/4 spacers, up from a 30.6 tire dia to 32.8" and Tacoma cant handle it?? I'm wondering if these 2012 and 2013 are different.
     
  20. Nov 13, 2013 at 7:41 AM
    #200
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    What's the specs on your wheels? Stock? Aftermarket?
     

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