Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

The camber portion sliders out and in (Fender - motor) the caster adjustment has grooves and sits in place. The camber adjustment CAN slip if not tightened properly.

 

I'm hoping someone can help me here. I have a 2017 TRD Sport 4x4 DCLB. I just put OME struts on with 888 coils, LR UCA and a Dakar leaf pack in the back. I'm sitting on SEMA TRD wheels and BFG Ko2 275/70/17's. I just got it aligned and attached are the numbers that I am currently set at.

My question is... Why am I rubbing so hard on the cab mount in reverse on both sides? Forgive my ignorance about alignments, but shouldn't my caster be closer to 3° with 0° camber and 0° toe?? I'd like to bring some numbers with me next time so I can have the tech do it right and eliminate this rubbing. Thanks in advance guys!

 

is the picture you posted a print out of the alignment on the truck you are referring to in your post?

 

Yeah. I guess I should have made that more clear.

 

those numbers seem to be closer towards the factory specs
if you run aftermarket wheels with the right back space/off set you might get away with those specs
you can bring the toe&camber below .05* near zero, and get that caster up like 3* and prob get away with it also

what type of terrain will you be driving mostly?
are you gonna be running the front sway bar?
any other rubbing issues in the front wheel wells?
you sure it is on the cab mount when in reverse?
not hitting fender anywhere at all?
opposed to chopping your cab mount chop mod??


I do not own a 3rd gen so just note all my opinions are from what i am gathering on my 2012 as I change things up myself...

 

I'll be driving mostly highway and city streets with the occasional off-road trips (once or twice a month).

Front sway bar is staying.

Slight rub on fender flares. But mainly on cab mount but only in reverse. And I'd prefer to NOT do the CMC.

You can see in these pics where it hits.
Thanks for your help too. Much appreciated.

 

If i recall correctly; my alignment is pretty identical to yours and I only rub in reverse on the driver side. BUT, I also have 15' 4x4 dcsb, 5100/887, and steath 6's if that makes a difference? I've made the assumption that I only rub on the driver side due to the extra weight even with the driver side spacer.. That's my assumption because my caster/camber is nearly identical on both sides and I have ZERO issues on my passenger side. Also, my driver side rubs HARD now that my suspension settled but my passenger clears without a problem. Than again, I could be completely wrong.. If you have time and a alignment shop willing to work with you, go mess with your caster and see what works for you. Zero out both camber and toe and start your caster at 2.5. Obviously that will be the best bet other than stepping down a tire size if you don't want to CMC. I chose to go the CMC route for additional clearance on/off the road, but honestly rubbing just bugged the shit out of me lol.

I'll check if i still have my alignment specs and post it if i find it.

 

I got my truck lifted about 2.5 in front. Got LR UCA and tires are 265/70/17.
Caster is left 3.8 right 4.0
Camber is at 1 on both
And toe is at 0


No rubbing. Can I leave caster that high? Is it a necessity to get the camber to 0?

 

1 degree of positive camber is too high. Should be closer to 0. Will cause excessive tire wear otherwise.

4 degrees of caster is a lot but will not affect tire wear.

 

So can I get some of you running these UCAs (as I am as well) to take some pics showing where both left and right side are sitting along the oval slot..

I have an example of what the pictures I am requesting in post #868 of this thread...

 

Thats gonna depend on how you set them originally and if they were used as part of the camber adjustment

 

I'm sitting on 3" OME w/ 886, LR UCA, and Cooper 255/85/R16 and stock wheels. Let mew know how these numbers look like...

 

Ummm your alignment tech didn't change a fuckin thing Go get your money back because he really didn't do jack shit.

The only thing that "changed" is the computers accuracy between the before and after. Your alignment wasn't actually physically adujusted.

If anything your alignment is WORSE after. Fuck I hate alignment shops

 

Why did you feel the need to get a wheel alignment?

 

WOW..I didnt even realize this until you pointed it out. But I know they did do something since it was pulling to the right big time and as I look at the front of my truck, the passenger front wheel was crooked af. Now it still pull to the right but not as much and the front wheels look staright...???

it was pulling to the right big time and as I look at the front of my truck, the passenger front wheel was crooked

 

There is nothing in that report that would indicate a pulling issue. Also, the before numbers do not show the passenger front wheel was crooked.

 

I didn't have good luck with first shop I went to. Although some techs drive rock crawlers to work.
Upper ball joints weren't torqued. Drivers lower control arm wasn't torqued and making a popping noise.
I set uppers at initial setting but I want more caster. Too twitchy for me.
Once I find a local shop that can do it I'll reposition and take it in.

 

Had these a couple yrs with no issues. Time for replacement ball joints. living in the NE has taken its toll. Who sells the ball joints only ?

 

http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/c60/Upper_Control_Arms.html

 

Thanks, had one fail this morn. Looks like the BJ sheared off just below the UCA. I'll post pics later. Glad it was in the driveway when it happened.