Alignment Help

Yes, I searched (and read a ton of posts).

I think I understand how this works, but I'm not positive, so I'm looking for help. I have the OME lift with 888 coils up front, which was just installed last week. Prior to that, I had a Toytec Boss lift. The dealership installed both lifts. With the Toytec lift, everything with my alignment seemed fine. Now, with the OME I can visually see a positive camber in the front wheels. Took it to the dealer, and they gave me the spec sheet below, saying that they've done all the adjustment they can within spec. From what I've read on these forums, am I correct in understanding that I want my camber to get lower (near 0), and there should be some room for caster to increase? Driving on the road feel totally fine to me. The tech at the dealer said that if he adjusts the camber any more, it will throw off the caster - so you can't have both. Since everything was fine before with the Toytec lift, I feel like I shouldn't need new UCA's as this OME lift is no higher.

Any ideas?

 

My trucks camber looks the same (2nd gen), all measured good. Rides great so I'm going to go with it and see how it goes.

 

Are you lifted? Looks like it in your avatar.

 

The tech is corect.
If he moves your camber closer to zero, you will lose caster; assuming you are at the limits of adjustment.
How much lift do you have? Might be time for UCAs.

Your SAI and included angle are out of spec...they should at least be equal side-to-side.
Do you have a top hat spacer for taco lean?

 

Yes. Bilstien's @ 1.75 (4 cyl) & 3/8" spacer on both front shocks.

 

The OME lift is generally a 2" lift, but I don't have before/after measurements to validate exactly how much lift I have over stock unfortunately. I do not have a top spacer for the taco lean, but I don't see any visible lean to the drivers side at all.

I'm fine with getting UCA's if I need them - I just don't understand why I didn't have this with the previous lift, which should have actually had slightly more or same lift than this one. I got a couple recommendations for shops nearby that work on lifted trucks and have very solid reputations for alignments on them - I might head there to get it as good as they can and then decide on UCA's from there.

 

Taco lean or not, your SAI and included angle are both off about 1.5 degrees.
Take a hit off roading or something?
Have the shop look into that; might have a damaged/loose bushing or ball joint.

 

I've had too many issue with this truck for it to see a trail yet, so no.

 

I wouldn't go back to that dealer...like I said, somethings up with your SA and included angle.
The fact they didn't give you before numbers makes me suspect they aren't telling you something.

 

I don't disagree with you at all on that. One question though - I believe they put the truck in the alignment rack, took the measurements, but didn't actually make any changes - I had been there about 10 minutes before they came out with the sheet to say they couldn't do anything about it. Would that be a reason for not having before numbers?

 

Could be...
Are your rear cams rotated all the way to the outside?

 

Dont mean to crash the party or divert the original question.

I believe dealership performed a bad alignment on my truck aswell. Steering wheel tilts to 10pm while driving straight, truck is rubbing pretty bad. Before alignment no rubbing at all, also my truck is super bumpy now.
Anyone ever dealed with a similar situation?

 

I had a very similar experience. Truck pulled right, and had rub where I didn’t before. Fixed the problem by going to a dedicated tire/alignment shop.

 

You're rubbing because you have 8.5" wide wheel with -10 offset, on what I assume is stock suspension. This is also what caused your alignment to go toe-out(negative); it added positive scrub radius. You need toe-in(positive) and zero to negative camber to compensate. Adding positive scrub will also make it bumpsteer more.
They did you right as far as toe and camber go; but camber was achieved at the expense of positive caster.

Increasing positive caster is what would get you clearance, from where you're rubbing. To little and it feels like it's wandering, too much and you'll get a lot of road shock. You do not have too much positive caster. So it's more than likely bumpsteer from the high offset wheels.
You may or may not have adjustment left in the cams to do that without sacrificing camber.

What size tires do you have?
Do you have lift?
Tires/wheels done same time as the lift?

 

I would try that. I ended with about 2.5-3" lift with stock UCA's. The tech who did mine is very good, and I was actually able to go back in the bay when he did my alignment too. It was educational to see it done. And he did tell me I'm out of adjustment, so I'm glad I didn't go any bigger.

 

Sub'd as there is a lot of good info here for me to reference once I lift my truck.

 

The steering wheel is just cocked; no actual pulling?
If it does pull, is it more pronounced on crowned roads?
Did they disconnect the battery before alignment?
If not, did they clear and calibrate zero point for VSC?

Looks like they attempted to set caster more positive to get that side to toe-in.
Might try a little more camber on the driver side; another 0.3 degrees positive.
Rear thrust angle looks bad too.
Tightened your u-bolts ever?
Might be able to get the alignment shop to loosen and reset it. No guarantee it would fix it. Could have frame twist, pooched leafspring bushing, etc.
I've heard the thrust is designed in, to compensate when being driven. I don't think so. I had mine aligned at very low mileage and had a straight thrust angle.
SPC make an adjustable thrust alignment plate.

Lift it; this would give you some clearance.
Get some UCAs; this would give you the ability to get more caster. Adjustable SPCs would be a good choice, if you don't need a whole lot; depends how much you lift.
Taller tires; this would reduce positive scrub some.

 

leaning towards a small lift to be honest. No pulling while driving, except when I'm coming to a complete stop usually feels like steering wheel turns left, If I allow

 

Ordered SPC UCA’s, as I have no more adjustment on the lower cams. Now I’m second guessing the SPC choice instead of JBA or TC, but I like that it gives me the most adjustment if needed. I’m searching the forum now for info on ideal alignment specs for a lifted 3rd gen. I have a good shop to go to, but I’d like to give some direction when I head there.

 

+2.8-+3.0 degrees caster
+0.50 degrees camber; if you want it set-up for road crown, +0.75 degrees on the driver side and +0.50 on the passenger side
+0.15 degrees toe