Alignment spec question. Edit: with spec sheet!

Taking her in after tossing the eibach pro in on the first clip. Running 265/75/16’s
Alignment even when reading through. Countless posts is a biased thing it seems, so I’m reaching out for some help to not look stupid when I go in.
Stock uca’s(waiting for new ones to get in to install)

what numbers am I looking for? What should I tell the tech to try and get as close to?
I’m seeing numbers like
Toe/camber as close to zero
Caster 2.5 or higher?

(To be honest my steering wheel is straight and only have gone about 50~mph but drives true.)

 

You'll have to re-align your truck when you get UCA's.....might as well wait and pay for it once unless you have lifetime alignments?

Caster the higher the better generally, you'll see that go up if you get 2 alignments and compare what the aftermarket UCA's got you, most people on here like it above 3.5, I've read some as high as 5 degrees

Close to zero is a good baseline on the other 2, a decent alignment tech will adjust for road crown a little

I would honestly let the tech do their thing and stay out of it, ask for a printout to see where they got ya and drive it home - if you're not happy then get specific........it doesn't hurt to mention to keep the caster on the high side but aside from that give the tech the chance to make you happy

 

exactly I figure, Id just do the firestone lifetime.. I don’t really have anywhere else around me, it seems most shops outsource..
Thanks! I’ll just take it, post specs and go from there.
I guess what I’ve been reading maybe is more people like it dialed in specifically. I just want to make sure it’s good to go in the event It takes a little longer to do my new uca’s

 

Agree with @Natetroknot. If it's stock UCA, just let the alignment tech do their job. You should be fine.

 

Looks like this is what they gave me. Think I still need to toss in the jba UCA?

 

Are you rubbing?

 

Naw not even close lol, that’s why I was confused when everyone is like “YOU NEED UCA’s” pre lift/alignment. But I honestly don’t know enough.

 

Then no need for aftermarket UCA unless it's hitting the springs when the shocks are completely extended, want it beefier for hard offroading, or you want the ease of maintenance with the bushings.

 

Damn I need to go flexer out actually. Now thay I think about it, when it was on the lift, there was not much room when they were just hanging down.

what do you mean beefier or Ease of Maint with bushing? Which two UCA’s you mean?

 

or you prefer the drive & handling with higher caster, typically with higher speed setups where caster is indispensable. more caster is good on the highway for a typical driver.

 

In which I am. So keep keep the jba’s and put them in? I was in the fence on saving 400 bucks, and not having to mess with joints and such. But. You guys know better than me I’m sure.

 

Yup forgot to add that, so a quick run-down in case anyone else looks on this thread. Reasons for aftermarket UCA:

- Got larger tires and starts rubbing even w/ CMC, Pinch Weld, etc. You need the UCA to increase caster pass 3degrees (which moves the tire forward).
- Increase caster pass 3 degrees to have better handling and less bump steering (drives straighter and wheel less likely to pull hard when hitting a bump on one side), but will increase the tension on the steering wheel a bit (not an issue, it just means use your muscle more).
- Your shocks extends out further and your OEM hits the springs.
- Ease of maintenance. Most aftermarket bushings has zerk fittings to lube them up.
- Beefier.
- Looks cool (at least some of them)