Alignment specs for 3 inch lift with OEM UCA

I currently am running a 3 inch lift on my 07 RC and I still have OEM UCA and my alignment isn't the best and I was wondering if people could throw some numbers out there to what they are running with 3 inch lift and stock UCA. I am in the market for LR UCA but that will be a few months and I was going to go ahead and get an alignment to keep my tires from wearing poorly.
Thanks,
Cody

 

If I recall correctly, at 2" lift with stock uca I was around .7 camber and .9 caster. I didn't think it rode that bad, even on highway. But I have since gotten LRs and am all dialed in.

 

You want way more caster than than. I'mAround 3.0-3.5 caster, -.4 camber, and 0 toe

 

Good luck on OEM arms

 

For some reason I read it as LR UCA, not OEM. oops

 

Beat me to it

 

You're not crazy

 

I'm not sure what number I have right now. But I think it may be close to this. I'll tell the technician I want both camber and caster around .7-1 and as for toe around 0.

 

That'll probably be about the best you can do on oem arms. Most people will tell you ideally you want caster at 2-2.5+. But on the oem arms you hit a point in adjustment where you have to sacrifice camber (add positive camber in my case) to get more caster. As I mentioned, caster at 1 didn't bother me, but I also only ran it that way for a couple months before getting the LRs. Sitting at 3.3 caster now.

 

You want around 3,0,0

You just won't get it

 

Your toe is incorrect for a rear wheel drive vehicle. You should have a bit of toe in to compensate for steer ahead which causes the front wheels to spread open when being pushed by a rear wheel drive. With toe at 0 you are scrubbing your tires when rolling forward and it will cause cupping.

 

good luck.... seriously do yourself a favor, dont buy your starbucks lattes for a week and get some spc UCA's cus at 3 inches, you need ucas BADLY.

Ideal specs IMO are around 3* of caster (up to 3.5 is OK for better tracking but steering will be heavier) .1* of toe in per side, and -0.2 to -0.4* of camber (negative meaning top of the tire in compared to the bottom looking straight on) This will keep the tires wearing evenly from inside to outside as the tires roll under during turns wearing the outside more than the inside during turning.

 

I'm not worried about it. On 5th set of tires in a year

 

...well for anyone else that cares about a proper alignment on a truck make sure they set your toe to OE specs or approx 1/8" of toe.

 

Well I would but I don't drink Starbucks or coffee in general. And considering I'm in college with no source of income there isn't much else I can do until I can get an internship.

Believe me I would've already had them, my truck is a pain in the ass to drive. Having to constantly work to keep it straight.

And btw does anyone know if LR UCA are longer than stock UCA because I'm about 1/4 inch from rubbing my UCA with my tire and I need to know if wheeler spacers are going to be needed or if I can just squeak by.

 

I dont think they are going to be any longer. I would recommend when you get them put the ball joint in the middle (D i think) caster position for an extra 2* of caster. Then slide the ball ALLL the way out to the outermost position away from the centerline of the frame.

This will do two things. 1. get you more clearance for your 285's and 2. if you have to dissassemble / or somehow the ball joint gets moved (hard hit or something) you know where to put it back to to have alignment proper.

I can get a pic or two of my SPC ucas with my 265's if you wish.

 

I was thinking about pushing my upper ball joint all the way out on my LRs. Were you able to get camber at 0 doing this? I'm just wondering if the LCAs have enough adjustability to accomplish that.

 

You want 3,0,0

 

Yeah my bad , fat fingers , no glasses

I'll edit my post so there's no confusion

 

0 toe is not correct