Alignment

Going to get the beast aligned today after it's 3 inch lift with Camburg's what specs to I need the tech to get? This guy is awesome so I am not worried about him getting it right. Just want it to be as good as it can be. Anywhere near up to 3.0 caster is ideal correct? What about toe, and camber?

 

Subbed for answer as well.

 

I believe it's 0 toe, 0 camber, and up to 3.0 caster. Just want to be sure.

 

From my experience, camber and toe at 0* is ideal. I can't speak for caster b/c I have yet to get UCAs and my caster is low. From all I read, 2.5-3.0* is about right. Subd for specs. The Camburg bj's will likely be my next purchase.

 

Will let you all know later

 

Alignment has begun

 

Seems the magic numbers are 0 toe, 0 camber, >2.5 caster. 3 should be great.

 

He said from experience with the Camburg UCA 2.8 to 3.0 was the norm

 

Strange can is maxed out. I'm at 2.2 career and that's as far as he can get it with camber at 0.0 should he go with a little positive camber

 

I'd keep camber at 0 and deal with the slightly lower caster.

 

I would take it for a ride on the highway (55+mph) to see how it drives before you add positive camber. Mine is at 1.5 and it's not terrible. I imagine 2.2 would be alright.

 

He got 2.7 on the passenger side at 0.4 camber. Doing the drivers side now

 

ideally you want a smidge of tow (.1* on either side) and a smidge of negative camber (like -0.4*) this will make the truck track straight (tow in) and tires wear even (negative camber) then get as much caster as you can.

I just got the above with 3.4* of caster on either side with lightracing arms set at their 0 (+2* of caster) on a 2in lift, cam's on LCA are pretty much centered.

Do not go positive camber unless you want to wear out the outside of your tires.

 

Okay might passenger side cam was maxed out and he got it to 2.0 or 2.1 Caster. Then adjusted the Camber to positive 0.4 and that brought it to 2.7 Caster. The driver's side cam bolt still have movement ability but that is at 2.7 Caster as well and positive 0.5 Camber. Tow is 0.1 on either side. So if there is an issue he can lower the caster obviously if needed to bring the Camber back down but then I might be looking at 2.0 to 2.2 Caster. Kind of strange thought I would have gotten better results with the Camburg's kind of disappointed. So what should I look for to see if there are any issues? Tracked awesome, zero wander, tires look straight from top to bottom ( yes I know it would be hard to see if they were off a certain amount of degrees ) So how long would it take to start showing any tire wear on the outside edge driving 200 miles or so a week? And if getting the Camber back down to zero, makes it so I have 2.0 to 2.2 Caster is that okay? Thanks for any help you can provide, he said if I start to get wear just bring it back and he will bring Camber back to zero and just have a lower Caster number than I should get with these.

 

I drove for over a year with 1.25 of caster, it makes the steering twitchy, but you'll live with it.

You got similar numbers to mine after the Camburg UCA, did you get the ball joint or uniball? If you're happy with the handling I wouldn't worry too much about the numbers, with the caveat that you want everything the same on both sides.

 

Ball Joint he made sure both sides pretty much matched as I was maxed out on the Drivers side? So should I have him lower the Camber to zero and live with 2.0 to 2.2 Caster?

 

I would rather have the camber spot on that caster b/c camber will affect tire wear. I would set the camber to zero and drive it. If it doesn't wander and the return to center is good, you're good to go.

 

I'd taje @rngr 's suggestion, and get camber to 0 or very close (+/- .02) or so. Toe at .1 is probably good.

 

Some individuals using the Camburg ball joint UCA have posted their alignment values and had similar alignment numbers, that is with about 3" of lift. I would also expect that reaching 0,0, and 3 of caster from an aftermarket UCA should be achievable. But a caster at or above 2 should still give you a good ride IMO.

 

Well I am in Mass and he is in Rhode Island so I guess I will drive it for a week or two and see what happens. So the consensus is go back to 0.0 Camber and live with the 2.0 to 2.2 Caster? Kind of defeats spending 600.00 on arms that don't really help much