Alignment

To increase caster the front alignment bolt should be more inboard and the rear bolts outboard.

 

I rode around for 2 days with 4 mounted and balanced beadlock wheels in the bed it settled some already. Those fuckers with Cooper ST/MAXX tires felt like they weighed about 80 to 90 pounds a piece

 

That picture above just makes it look nose high and it's not

 

Ah bummer no real way to know unless you measured before too...FYI - when your thinking about being level don't compare front to rear hub to fender measurements because the front and rear wheel wells themselves are not level / or same depth. Also never compare your hub to fender measurements to anyone else unless they are both brand new trucks. I have seen 2 year old trucks with core wall body mount bushings collapsed 1/4" which drops the body 1/4"...also a lot of people that think they have taco lean when in fact their drivers side bushing is collapsed...to many variables IMO. When it comes to level the only real thing you can do is measure from the ground to the flat portion of your frame under the cab front / back or from you cab pinch weld to the ground.

I've got a fresh $1 that says your springs will settle and your alignment will be just fine when the front end settles 1/4 or 1/2" anyone else wanting to give bad advice, conspiracy theories etc had better be willing to step up and put your money where your mouth is !

 

...but he's trying to settle the front end...

 

I'm sure it will be brother, just don't feel like damaging my new Cooper ST/MAXX tires

 

Maybe I will have her sit on the front end

 

what is OE spec for caster ? ...because technically that is what products are designed around maintaining.

 

Hey once it settles and I can get near 2.5 with 0.0 Camber I am happy

 

4x or 2x ...you can't put the two in the same discussion because there is a 600lb difference in the front end...variables...variables...variables

 

doesn't matter what people "want" most of these products are all designed to maintain factory spec when you do something to take it out of spec...therefore if the product in question gets within OE spec it is a properly designed A.O.K item

 

well now I know your drunk...there is no such thing as a level Taco !?

 

U drink to much riquor

 

Just trying to be scientific here IE: if a product was designed to maintain OE specs then that is what it should be judged by...not what someone wants it to do, don't make me start with the drunk fat girl analogies again... The whole question in this shit storm of a thread has been a debate around if the Camburg UCA will hit proper alignment specs and that is OE #'s ...I'm gonna' expect that $ in a TW engraved frame

 

I got these numbers with TC UCA's and kings set at 2" for now.

 

"I don't wheel or do any harsh driving..." and you bought uca's and new suspension??