Alignment

Agreed.

 

So back I should go for the 0.0 Camber and 2.0 to 2.2 Caster you think gents?

 

That's what I like about my LR UCA. Plenty of room for adjustment.

 

thats what i would do.... if anything 0 camber, you dont want positive camber.

or sell the camburg arms and get some lightracing ones. 3.4* of caster is SOOO NICE.... and i still have TONS of play in the lower arm and an extra 2* of caster availability in the top.

 

Yea, That's the consensus. So much agreement in this thread. That doesn't happen often lol. I wouldn't be disappointed just yet. My guess is that it will drive great with 2.1ish caster. Mine is only at 1.1 and it's not terrible but just enough to be annoying.

 

Okay I will call him back and have him fix it

 

Thanks everyone now lets hope he doesn't charge me another 70.00 just to fix it

 

Thats how i found my truck to be at 1.4* of caster... it drove alright but it was annoying.... now that i got my lightracing arms in and a proper alignment.... 3.4* of caster the bitch tracks like a freight train... i didnt know what i was missing.

I am surprised you are only able to get ~2* out of those camburg arms on a 3in lift.

 

I know somebody that will buy them if you go this route

 

I let go of mine on the highway for at least 2 minutes and it just stayed straight down the road. This sucks

 

Agree. Running a hair of positive tow will keep the truck straight while driving. Otherwise you'll be constantly making minor adjustments to steering while driving. I dealt with that for a while myself.

Second, if you plan on going off road, the alignment tabs will bend and truck won't hold alignment. My truck did only minor offroad prior to the recent 6" lift, and almost all of my alignment tabs were bent flat. Bigger tires and bumps don't mix well with stock cross member alignment tabs.

Definitely get UCAs. This will allow for proper caster setup. Caster is what causes the wheels to go back to straight after you turn. Not enough caster and your truck will take too long, or you will have to manually center the wheel. But anywhere between 2*-3* is fine.

 

Sooo... you let go of the wheel and it stays straight? and that's a problem? Sarcasm?

 

Camber around zero degrees is fine. Caster around 3 degrees is okay. Make sure there is .5 degrees less caster on the left side to compensate for road crown. A little bit of positive toe is ideal .05 degrees per side. When workin with some of these cam adjusters you just have to work with what you can. Sometimes perfect is not an option. I've worked as a professional auto mechanic for 32 years and have learned some engineers are a$$holes.

 

Oh no I meant that I have to go back that sucks sorry man

 

Haha, ok I get it. It'll be worth it when you get everything dialed in. It took me forever and about 4 alignments to find the best balance using stock UCAs.

 

Thanks all

 

Seriously thinking that of selling mine...

AE

 

Good luck. On a related note, with the Camburgs changing the ball joint is easy, so they are worth something.

 

Appointment for 9 A.M. Wednesday morning back to 0.0 Camber and 2.0 to 2.2 Caster

 

sounds like a good plan!

wow..... did we just have an entire thread of general agreement and working together?!?! <3 you guys