All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

rad shot! Session jump ?

 

Btw, this is what I was talking about cleaning up earlier.

 

Ouch. Yeah. No crash replacement but definitely can do with a ridewrap replacement which is a hassle. I got a downtube i need to replace. And I'm putting off.

 

That is one sweet ride and you have the Fox set up with the 40's. Bastard

 

Yep. Great stuff, but quite spendy even for my taste. Their dp3 pant has served me well, but it’s not perfect.
I prefer MTB fit, so I’m willing to pay a bit more for clothing tailored for their purpose. But their pricing is a bit overboard. It’s reasonable for what you get, I’m just not sure I need what they give.
I love TLD stuff, works great for me and can be found for reasonable prices.

Ouch! Man that hurts on that bike.
I’d definitely replace the protection. I mean, that bike is bling and to go half ass on the protection seems silly.
EDIT: Seems like it's only two pieces anyway. A little heat from a hairdryer an it'll peel right off. Tacking on two (fairly simple) pieces should only take a few minutes.

 

Are Moab shuttles taking folks to Burro Pass? I know the road was being repaired from the Pack Creek fire last year. I heard they were aiming to finish repair and construction by late August 2022.

 

Porcupine Shuttles is saying the current drop-off is at Hazard due to the roadwork.

 

As recently as last week that’s a no.

 

Has anyone built up a Guerrilla Gravity frame? I’m curious is the recommended 3mm offset rear wheel is an absolute, or if a standard rear will suffice without destroying the driveline.

 

https://poisonspiderbicycles.com/moab-mtb-trail-conditions/

The road to Burro is open to shuttles, however, there is still construction and the road is intermittently closed. Shuttle ride may be slower than normal.

 

New bike day for my buddy! Its a Polygon Xtrada 6 and it seems really nice for the price tag. Rode mountain bikes on a paved path like absolute cavemen for a first ride, but this weekend we will be hitting the local trails!

 

Well, never even used those Enduro S Hydra's and sold them locally.
Then bought some WAO Union 1/1's used locally and can now quickly and easily switch wheels without need of buying a new cassette. Just pull freehub quickly and easily.

 

You need to pass some of those local deals my way.

Pretty sure it’s a combo of my local scene isn’t as active as yours, and I’m not on any social marketplace platforms.

All said, nice flip and I’m a touch envious.

 

Birmingham scene is hot right now. It’s a great time to get into riding and be riding here. The local riding group is very active.

Also, anyone in the market for a new Yeti.. cheaper than pre covid. This Black Friday may be wild since I’m assuming dealers are finally getting all that stock they were ordering during the boom.

https://www.probikesupply.com/colle...EMAIL_ID]&mc_cid=86157293ad&mc_eid=98c37f6a5c

 

RIP my second-to-last set of Cane Creek Ergo II bar ends (magnesium body with contoured rubber wrap that replaces the outer lock on a pair of lock-ons). One more set and it’s the end of an era.

These are the best bar end ever — and I hate all others. Don’t judge.

 

Have a slight creak that is starting up in my headset area on the bike. Going to dab some grease on the stem/handlebar interface, as well as tighten up the whole assembly using the top cap bolt (after releasing the tension on the two stem bolts that tighten into the steerer tube). Now I have been getting conflicting info back and forth, but does anyone have a good recommendation for a carbon specific grease?

I have a tube of the Park Tools HPG-1 grease, but really do not want to be using that in the areas that touch carbon if it is not a good idea.

 

I never grease the stem to steerer interface. I'd take it apart, clean everything and regrease the bearings. Otherwise Phil wood or most silicone based greases are carbon safe. (super lube)

 

^^ yeah. this. the bearings and cups should get grease. the HPG-1 should be fine. I prefer Phil Wood grease. Carbon grease really is just for the carbon to aluminum interfaces to prevent corrosion + provide better surface contact for carbon/aluminum interfaces.
You should be fine to just use your grease on the bearings and cups. that's almost always where the creak comes from. Sometimes my headset spacers like to make a creak but that's very specific and I know when it happens. Just a little cleaning and it's good to go.

 

If the bars and stem are carbon then I use this motorex carbon paste. Not really a grease, it has some small pieces of something in it to grip the carbon. I’m a fan of it. I also used it on my dropper post

 

For people running a Velocirax, can you fully open the tailgate down when in the load position or did you need a hitch extender? Also, any clearance issues with a camper shell and the wheel baskets? I put a deposit down on a Super Pacific X1 and planning on getting a vertical hitch rack. The Velocirax 6 is the leading candidate right now.