All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Sag is also only a recommendation (albeit a more refined one) as you are measuring the position of the air spring at a static position. How you ride and where you ride should be a factor.

At first I rode off the back and even at static sag my fork felt too stiff. When I started to weight the front more, it was too soft.

100% start with sag but don’t be afraid to +/- pressure based on feel.

 

Somewhat agree, but less than 15% or more than 20% and you probably need to adjust elsewhere. Tokens, compression, rebound.

 

Sag is a starting point, but I wouldn’t venture past 5% recommendations.

As someone else said, too mug sag and you’re not taking advantage of the small bump compliance dampening and hitting a spike of resistance too soon.

Too little sag and your spring is doing everything and you’d have to run rebound slower since it’s becoming a pogo stick.

Start with a lower service.
Take all tokens out, and pump to the recommended air pressure, check sag is good. Then follow recommended dampener settings, and go ride.

If you’re not bottoming or getting close to bottoming great, if you’re bottoming add 1 token, add the same air, and repeat.

The more tokens you add the less linear your fork feels and it becomes more spikey. Personally I’d prefer to run no tokens, but then I’d clap my fork.

Before you start worrying about changing dampener settings make sure that you have the spring side sorted first.

 

Here you guys go, idk what the V2’s went on sale for prier to being “outdated” seems decent.

 

https://cambriabike.com/products/leatt-airflex-pro-knee-guard-flint-2022?variant=40445736190134&campaign_id=23856161847480591&ad_id=23856161847460591

Blue or gray? Also anyone ever worn these? My old G forms from 2019 are worn out and have holes. I think at that price can’t complain

 

Lube party. And a ride in the canyon. Not a bad Saturday.

 

+1
Sounds like rebound is too slow and pressure too low.
Think of this: but instead of following the contour it’s smashing into the top of the rollers because it’s not extending down fast enough. Look at the wheels. You want the wheel to do what the back wheel is doing, not the front.
Not a fan of Zebs, but it shouldn’t feel like that.
You can also try a “traction tune”.
Set recommended sag, compression wide open, rebound full fast. Idea is you’re using rebound to control motion, not compression damping.

 

Wife left me alone today so I had to play ‘destroy the evidence’. She knew I was updating a bike and never asked anything beyond that

The bike that got the upgrades was my Poseidon Redwood. It’s now in its final form, and the only thing Poseidon left is really the frame at this point. I went full Apex mechanical, replacing the Microshift group set. I had no issue with Microshift but the brakes were not confidence inspiring and they were cheap, heavy components. Still need to trim that shifter cable and rebleed the rear brakes, but she rides like a dream! I put just shy of 50 miles on it today.

 

I've had Code RSC's on my last bike with 200/180 rotors and stock pads. I fluctuate between 210-230lbs mostly, and I always thought the Code RSC's were solid but nothing mind blowing. I was used to them and could service them nicely at home so that's what I stuck with on my new bike.

New bike has Code RSC's, 200/180 HS2 rotors (I doubt the HS2 rotors do much but I didn't want to leave anything on the table), and MTX red pads.

I've done about 10 rides on my new Yeti SB120LR (coming off 3 Achilles reconstructions so way out of shape). Brakes have felt fine but I haven't done a big downhill or been in shape enough to really push them.

Anyways, yesterday I hit some local good downhills and these pads kick ass. Plenty of power and surprised me numerous times. Finally getting some confidence back after 2 years off the bike, as well as getting used to the new bike.

If you have Code's and need a little more power, check out the MTX red pads.

 

The hs2's are great for quicker initial bite and longer descents. I've got them on my bikes and haven't looked back. I've heard thr mavens are even better but I'm still sticking with my code r's for now. Maybe ill switch to rsc/ultimates later. Haha!

 

Does anyone use a small portable washer for their bikes after a muddy and/or cow/horse poop ride?? Im talking like a gallon or two hand pump or electric sprayer that has some decent pressure behind it. im not trying to get the bike spotless, id just like to get the bigger messes off before it dries on the way home.

example 1

 

I’d probably go with disposable gloves, sanitizing antibacterial wipes, and paper towels and a trash bag. Glove up. Paper towel it off, then run the wipes down. Then dry with paper towels. Toss it all in the bag and dump it there in a trail waste bin or tie it up and trash the main mess at home.

Edit: the rationale for this^ is I am leery of making poop into poop mistTM that will move as aerosol into all sorts of nooks and crannies and MY FACE.

 

I’m about the same size, usually closer to 220s-230s and run gold and red on my RSCs after recommendations from this group. Im also running an HS2s in I believe the same sizes. It’s for sure a good combo.

 

Yea , get the 2 gallon though.

 

I have a 1.5 gallon hand sprayer, like what you’d use for a garden. It’s cheap and works perfectly for what you described, just to knock the heavy stuff off before headed home.

 

I’ve had people tell me after getting the ebike I won’t go back. I’ve got to say, the ebike is fun, but it’s completely different. First ride back on the arrival in probably 3 weeks and I’m having a blast.

The ebike I feel has made me faster on the regular. Both in climbing and descending. The bike now feels even more nimble than before.

As a tool for progression I’ve got to say I’m a big fan of the ebike.

 

Noob checking in!

I’m doing my first frame up build, and I want to see what you guys think. I’m getting ready to press in headset cups on a new steel frame and I have a proper headset press to do this, but how much should I worry about the state of the faces and bores in the headtube?

I’d like to just send it and get this together, but if it’s worth checking them and possibly getting reaming and facing done at my LBS, I can do that. I just don’t know how much I should care

Thanks!

 

I just went for it and pressed them in. Only did it once, worked out. I freaked out because they started walking a bit but they straightened out just fine.

 

Thanks!

I’m actively trying to manage my analysis OCD with this stuff and just get it done and get riding

 

I have a water port day tank 4ish gallons but never use it for bikes, mostly used camping. That's a good idea though