All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Yeah, I've had my linkage bolts loosen up on my Spur before. Worth keeping an eye on.

 

I think there can be a tiny bit of play in the brake pads depending on the brakes. that make it seem something is loose but really isn't. I like to turn the bars 90* to kind of offset any play from axles/brakes and headset when checking for play.

Could be bad bearings in the hub or headset.

Depending on how your hub end caps attach, check those. They screw in on my gravel bike and I realized the actual hub axle was loose, it was easier to track down since it was the rear wheels and it shifted like shit but could be a thing on the front too.

it was already said but check the linkage, transitions have a ton of bolts haha.

 

You could try to remove the headset bearings and see if they have any play in your hands. Otherwise, I've used the advise above of turning the bars 90 degrees and trying to 'rock' the front end. It at least takes the brakes out of the equation.

 

i'll try turning the bars 90 and check for play too. i was trying to move it left and right to check if it was the hub, but didn't really show any difference. turning 90 sounds like it would be a better approach

 

SID's had a bushing issue a couple years ago...not sure of the age of your fork, maybe old stock when ya put bike together...? Might want to look into it regardless.

 

Hold the crown and grab the arch on the lower and pull back and forth. You will know pretty quickly if it is a bushing problem. I did the same multiple headset adjustments on a previous bike and couldn't find the issue. I asked a friend on the trail, he did the above and I was like, oh, duh.

 

Check the headset to make sure you have all the right parts. Some headsets have extra plastic thin spacers beneath the top bearing cover and a split compression ring. If you're positive it's not the headset (make sure that the spacers are higher than the top of the steerer by 5mm), check the stem bolts to make sure that all are tight. Check to make sure that the wheel axle is tight. To check if it's the CSU, turn bike upside down, take front wheel off and push the fork legs back and forth to see if you can make the CSU make a cracking sound. If the fork is older, it maybe the bushing. You can check this in a similar way as checking for a loose headset (brakes on, rock bike back and forth but instead of holding the headset, put your hand between the stanchion and lower to see if you can feel slop in the bushings).

 

Yeah buddy! Second riding pic looks like an older Reign? Welcome back, you'll be shredding in no time.

@flipnidaho said it all. My moneys on the headset or the SID.

I've been off for the last 3 weeks(ish) and so glad to be riding again. Taking care of a 2 year old, aging parents, new house with things that need fixin', has definitely cut into my riding this year. I'm about half of the miles I'm usually riding, but every damn day is a good one.
We've also had a super dry summer here. Just a few hours of rain in the last, probably 2 months... So dry, dusty, rutty, hard as shit, at least the smoke lifted. Still super fun.
All the locals know these pics...

 

Did you change your headset spacers?

 

Good eye, bit it's a glory dh that I stripped down. I had that frame for many years, sold it 3 times bought it back back twice couldn't the last time so it go replaced with an 09. They were bulky bikes but did they ride like a hot damn.


And a video for those of you that like old school steep rocks and wood work
https://www.pinkbike.com/video/369472/

 

To those that replied to my question about my headset possibly being loose, I think thats what is going on.

I checked all the linkage bolts, the bottom one on the shock was a little loose, but maybe a 1/4 turn if that. Don't think this was the problem. I only feel the rock/knock when I hold the front brake, not the rear. Kinda points to the headset.

I haven't swapped anything on the bike besides the stem cap to one that can hold a garmin, but I did swap back to the original one and the problem is still there. I pulled the fork off and cleaned and regreased everything, the little knock is still there. It almost feels like its the headset and the CSU to lowers on the Sid. I'll have to take it to the shop today since I can't get rid of it.

I'm suspicious I rode with the headset loose. The top bearing cup/seat looks a little worn. Running my finger on different parts feels rough but one part feels smooth. The rougher parts look silverish like they were worn down while the smooth part is still black.

Replacing a headset doesn't sound fun. Starting to think I won't have my spur for a week or so while I wait for a replacement and shop time.

Lighting isn't great, but the worn parts are the front and back while the smoother part is like left-front left corner.
https://imgur.com/a/hOhb8zA

 

definitely looks like it may not have been tight enough at some point or maybe you got a bad cup or bearing, maybe they didn't put any grease on the bearing when the bike was put together? It's probably a mix of everything tbh

 

Took my Spur to the shop closest to my work when they opened today. They just became a Transition dealer like a week or two ago so nice.
They didn't think it was the headset but the bushings in the Sid. They are going to open a warranty ticket with Rock Shox once I can get them my proof of purchase. Gonna have to text them a picture of it tonight when I get home.

Sucks since I don't think I'll get my Spur back for a week or two. Luckily my Patrol is running good and I'm taking that to Snowmass this weekend anyway.

I didn't think I was riding the Spur that hard, but maybe. At the same time, all those big XC race courses look way gnarlier than anything I've done with my Sid. Maybe I should swap to a pike like I think backcountyj has on his spur.

 

I mean, those guys are tiny AND I'm sure they're servicing/replacing their forks way more frequently than you are...

 

lol true. i didn't think about them having their bikes serviced by a professional everyday.

 

I need more Kudo's. Y'all should follow me on Strava
Strava: Will D

If you're in Washington, we can start some friendly competition's. I road ride, and MTB

 

Yup. Pike at 140, coil out back. No regerts.

 

@backcountryj and @mrtonyd curious your thoughts (of course anyone can chime in)...

My wife was considering trading in her 27.5 Yeti SB140 for a Spur or

$11 SB120 Connectors Flush Mount Recessed Plate (Gray-1pc)

SB120 or some other short travel 29er... she likes XC and endurance racing and just generally doing long rides but she's also a very capable descender. She'll ride whole enchilada at least once a year and get on the steeper stuff around Utah with some regularity. I'm thinking the Spur is a great option for this as it's in the XC travel category but seems to match her descending abilities for that travel category, especially cause she's a pretty small lady.

 

I'm riding the same stuff on my Spur on the top end that others on 140 bikes are on their lower-mid range, so I think you're pretty accurate in that assessment. I picked a bad line on Autobahn in Galbraith and gave the bike a few shots this weekend that were closer to enduro bike territory by accident and it held up well.

 

I agree with GunShot. The Spur is great for all day rides and can handle descents real well. You can tell its not a bigger bike, but its capable.

I think Mo Awesome described it as an XC bike for enduro riders. Its not the lightest or fastest XC bike, but its super fun. They did an XC comparison video series in the last month.