allenfab's 95 Tacoma build

I think he may have just raised the motor in affect tilting the entire power train, but I could be wrong though.

If you want, I can leave those diffs on my front porch and you can come and get them if you're going to the meet next weekend, and you can just leave the money for them under the front door mat or something.... I won't be home that day till later on

 

Could be.

I'll give it some thought and get back to you on the diffs. I do get the hint, but I would like to get those motor mounts done. They are really the last piece in the puzzle to get the truck where it needs to be for the 35s...at least that can be done locally and I can't do myself. And, I'd really like to only have to do that crossmember once, lol. That bitch is heavy. I need to get started painting it.

Don't take that to mean I'm in a rush. If they don't get done until December, I don't care. I can't even get the tires until late February, and that's assuming the testing goes off without a hitch. But at least if you had the engine block sitting there you could tinker with it whenever you felt like and probably be motivated by getting rid of it ASAP, lol.

I'd do the throw-out bearing (it's sitting on my bedroom floor) but I'm afraid if I too the factory crossmember out, I wouldn't be able to get it back in, plus with the transmission out of the way cutting the old mounts off/back will be a snap.

Don't mean to sound pushy, haha. I'm just ridiculously excited about this!

 

I know you're anxious to get all this done, I'm just not sure I will have time myself, especially by the end of the year. I'm in and out of town almost every weekend for the rest of the year, and I've still got some other jobs that I need to get caught up on, on top of getting mine done and Tim's truck moved to his place (getting the latter done by Christmas).

 

Haha... (yeah, itish like that, lol)

Well, I guess it really doesn't matter. I drive the T4R most of the time unless I have to take the OGT for some reason. Ain't gonna bother me much, especially with the tires not being available until February at the soonest. I would like to have the crossmember in by the Annual Meet, otherwise, I'm going to have to get throw-out bearing changed and hope I can get the factory crossmember back in. The BL is easy enough, as is the new crossmember. It's really the motor mounts that are the sticking point. They are probably the most complicated fabrication of the whole deal.

But hell, is doesn't really matter to me...if you want to weld the outsides on for me so I can mount the crossmember in the intended location and then move the thing up 2" at a later date, as long as I'm good for the annual meet, it's fine by me. Even if I have to run the thing open/open because ECGS has my locker.

 

BTW, next time you pick up some metal, get some 3/8" stuff. I want to do my rear bumper brackets out of 3/8" and I want to do my light pod flush mounts out of it so if I drag them across a rock or something they will survive in tact. The light pod mounts will be the most complicated thing on the whole bumper, but I kinda wanted to make those and just have you weld them on. Honestly, if you're willing to school me, I wouldn't mind doing some of the less visible welding myself. I used to be able to flat and side stick weld pretty decently (I was useless overhead), but I had a lot steadier hand then. However, welding with the end of a stick where your hand is like 12" away from the weld is probably harder then Mig welding where you're a lot closer and don't have to keep feeding the rod closer as it burns down. Even if it doesn't look as pretty as your work, as long as it's solid I don't mind.

 

Weekend update... New perches are on along with u-bolts and pinion angle corrected. Ordering new brake lines this week and then on to the traction bar

 

What kind of brake lines you going with?

 

Does the angle of the 3rd member affect how the gears lube themselves?

 

I'm going to piece together some from summit racing. I'm just going to do all stainless braided from the frame to the wheels.

Probably to an extent. Idk what the max angle is before the pinion bearings start to get starved for fluid but I think I'll personally be fine. Pointing the pinion directly at the t-case output is suppose to be ideal for a double cardon driveshaft to reduce vibes, so we will see if I notice a difference. I mainly did it for the extra clearance to keep it away from the rocks

 

As long as you aren’t doing anything crazy it doesn’t. The ring gear flings oil up to the pinion

 

Theres a video out there where a guy has a clear diff cover showing what the gears actually do when spinning, basically shoots oil everywhere in there no matter what.

 

I figured that was the case. Just wasn’t sure if there would be long term effects or not. Probably gonna have to do the same thing when I swap to D60’s.

 

Good choice, I got my d60 pointed at the pinion with the same perches todd has and no vibes at all back there.

 

Weekend update...

I welded the new traction bar bracket onto the axle which I moved toward the center of the axle... Probably 4 or 5 inches closer than the old one. I got the old frame bracket that held the shackle cut off and cleaned as well as removing the exhaust up to the downpipe.

I think I'm going to look into replacing the entire exhaust, including the cat, with something quieter. The flanges on the cat are really pitted, and the cat has 250k miles on it. Plus, a smaller cat would be easier to fit in what little space I have left under the truck.

I also have another bad wheel cylinder on the passenger rear... I'm getting tired of replacing those.

 

Just run without cats and dummy plug the o2 censors.

 

I cranked it up with the cat removed and no thanks, way too fucking loud for me lol

 

Even with a muffler?

 

My exhaust is cut at the headers

 

He's looking for dead silent like an EV, so you can't even tell it's running, even with the throttle pinned.

Edit: Unlike mine with the original factory muffler that probably has no packing left in it and sounds like a chihuahua growling in a steel drum.

 

It was just headers, downpipe, and then nothing. That itself was loud, I didn't have the material to try it with just a muffler added on.

I have some options though....

1. factory replacement Flowmaster cat, but then I'll have to find a factory flange that bolts to the back of that so I can run the rest of the exhaust
2. weld on Magnaflow cat with all new flanges from Summit, then run the rest of the exhaust
3. no cat, with the URD o2 simulator and the rest of the exhaust

I'm going to sleep on it and do a little more research. But like Lee said, I want it quiet.... real quiet