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Allpro APEX slider install issues/questions

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Rayien, Aug 20, 2017.

  1. Oct 21, 2020 at 3:40 PM
    #21
    helix66

    helix66 Well-Known Member

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    ProGrille,MesoStuff,Tinted,AllPro sliders, RCI ALL skids, BAMF diff skid, KDmaxPro tune, Demello bumper, Warn evo10s, BD s8 & squadrons, Accutune UCAs, Fox 2.5pes, Eibach & Deaver
    Anytime and hit up if u have more questions.
    These things were a not of a nightmare for me from day 1. I was going to paint them and did shitty prep and decided to powdercoat them. Then installing them solo in the street sucked. I can see that the pc job was kind of shitty so best price isn’t the best quality, but the inverse of that is true as well!
     
  2. Oct 21, 2020 at 3:43 PM
    #22
    DamnDvo

    DamnDvo Well-Known Member

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    I've been using cobalt bits only! Just have two more holes (1 from each side UNDER the frame). Probably going to look into some sort of angle drill and get shorter cobalt drill bits for the kick-out section though.

    Again, really not sure how I'm going to get #2 in. Just want to look for the most efficient way to do this without having to take out brake lines.
     
  3. Oct 21, 2020 at 4:03 PM
    #23
    helix66

    helix66 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2017 DclB TRDor MgM
    ProGrille,MesoStuff,Tinted,AllPro sliders, RCI ALL skids, BAMF diff skid, KDmaxPro tune, Demello bumper, Warn evo10s, BD s8 & squadrons, Accutune UCAs, Fox 2.5pes, Eibach & Deaver
    I did use a 3/8” right angle drill along the bottom. You can also use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to shorten the drill bit.

    I’m pretty sure that I used my regular 18v Makita to drill the rear holes at the kick outs. It was a while ago and can’t recall but thought I mentioned it in one of my posts. It didn’t look possible until I got down there with the drill.

    Also when you get done they might bang against the pinch weld. Mine do on dirt roads or even bumpy roads.
    I used some fuel line, slit it lengthwise and slipped it over the pinch weld to lessen it.

    I can’t recall, is #2 the one where you have to reach way up into the frame rail?
    If it is I might have mentioned that in a post too When I get home I can look at my pix and see if I took a pic.
    Like I said several of the supplied bolts were too short to even start the threads.


    Look through that other link I posted.
     
    DamnDvo[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Oct 21, 2020 at 4:36 PM
    #24
    helix66

    helix66 Well-Known Member

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    2017 DclB TRDor MgM
    ProGrille,MesoStuff,Tinted,AllPro sliders, RCI ALL skids, BAMF diff skid, KDmaxPro tune, Demello bumper, Warn evo10s, BD s8 & squadrons, Accutune UCAs, Fox 2.5pes, Eibach & Deaver
    From that link I posted...page 5 on has a ton of pix.
    the pass side I drilled from inside out
    The driver has the gas tank but it worked if not with the Makita then the right angle.




    Hey man, thanks again for all the pix and tips, super helpful!
    I have the pass side on %100 and just need to trim that plastic cover on that connector cover.

    The driver's side is on with all the main hardware but still need to drill the bottom frame bolts and the rear most (used a nut plate on the pass side and drilled from under the truck outward) and make up some tabs for the brake lines.
    It's tough to get the bottom holes centered but it works well enough if you're off a bit.



    I'm having some computer issues now and can't find any pix. I was using a right angle drill and now can't recall if I had cobalt or titanium bits, but I didn't have to remove the slider at all. I think both sides had a slot or opening in the frame and all I did was drill through the slider. The pass side I could do from underneath and the driver I might have either done with the right angle drill from outside or the regular cordless.

    I never notched the pinch welds, I just slit some fuel line and slid it over it. I'm not off road much but it was evenbanging on pot holed roads.
     

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