Am I leaking oil from motor?

Agreed, you can buy time doing this, just don't over torque them. Tighten them down like less than you would on a spark plug. Mine were hella loose when doing the job and realize i could've saved some time there, but worked out great and was able to replace along with plugs.

Good job if you are a diy or like to tinker. Lots of stuff to move and keep note of, but the age of the vehicle it all kind of goes back together the way it came off.

 

Those valve cover bolts take hardly any torque, 53 inch/lbs if I remember right. Definitely don't want to over tighten them or you'll be buying new ones or a new valve cover

 

leans the engine bay pretty well?

 

Yes, and many more things. Be careful on plastic.

 

Holy shit all 7 bolts I was able to get to were pretty loose! Hopefully that helps for awhile

 

You torqued to spec and not to death, right?

 

To snug, for now lol. Going by my parents next week where I’ll double check with a torque bar. I was cautious not to tighten too much but they were so loose I was able to finger tighten most of them at first.

 

Did someone say that those are to 53 lbs?? I thought that was pretty high..

 

Yes. You are leaking oil from motor.

 

53 INCH pounds, not ft/lbs

 

It's not yard lbs?

 

That would be a big torque wrench

 

Lol

 

Copy that

 

It is the constant heating up and cooling down that makes the bolts work loose. Either that or the gaskets shrink a little bit over time.

 

Going to be doing my valve cover gaskets here shortly. I appreciate the info posted. A little worried i might F up the job ha. However, can't wait for the cold beer after starting it up and it all working

 

Dude, just take your time and don't be in a rush. Take pictures multiple pictures of your engine from different angles before you start so you have a visual representation of how everything goes together before you start taking things apart. The first time I did this, I took notes as I removed things. In reality, after you get familiar with this engine like I have, you really have to try to screw things up. Electrical connectors are different sizes and you can't connect them up wrong like on the throttle body. Vacuum lines are different sizes and can only stretch so far so it's hard to screw them up as well.

In the write-up, the dude uses WAY too much FIPG on the cylinder head. His write-up is well-done but this is one part of his write-up that I don't agree with. The factory service manual only recommends putting a dab on FIPG on the half moon junctures and in the corners of the camshaft humps.

Another thing I've seen suggested is putting FIPG on the cam plugs. These plugs have a rubberized surface and make a leak proof seal when the collar is properly tightened down. If you do add FIPG, just think what a pain in the ass it will be getting back in there on the back of the head to clean out old FIPG in that channel the plug sits in if you ever have to repeat this job. This is the reason why it's not good advice to follow others and smear FIPG on the cam plugs. It's not necessary. I've done this job on 3 rigs and there's been zero leaks from the cam plugs.

The most common mistakes I've seen with this job is people aren't careful and drop shit into the valve train and then they go on forums like this asking if they should be worried that a piece of plastic from the wiring loom disappeared in an oil channel in the head or something like that. Like I show in the video, clean up the plastic wiring loom and tape it up before you start cranking on it to get the valve covers out. This will prevent pieces of broken plastic dropping into places you don't want them too. Another common error is people mistakingly connect up one of the coolant lines under the throttle body to the air assist line that goes to intake manifold for the injectors. If you do this, you flood your cylinders with coolant and hydrolock your engine. Just pay attention to how the rubber hoses attach under the throttle body and you'll be ok. The lines that have a hose clamp on it are coolant lines. The one without the hose clamp is the air assist line.

Hope the job goes smooth for you.

 

Thank you so much! Extremely helpful. I plan to take pictures and notes as you mentioned while I make my way through the process. Pictures have saved me multiple times when I worked on my old Audi. Thankfully not a DD so I plan to take my time and make sure it is done right.

 

Are all the part numbers for the 4Runner in timmys video the same for my truck? If not does anyone have the part numbers I’d need for the job?

 

valve cover gasket job?