Am I multimeter challanged?

I bought and installed a pop and lock tailgate latch. Everything is installed and the cables are run, but I can't for the life of me get the wiring right. I couldn't find any wires that match the color on the instructions under the driver's side doorstep where I saw in several posts and videos others have tapped into. I have a multimeter so I set it to 20 vdc and tested literally every wire in both of the wire looms (with no key in the ignition) and couldn't find one that changed voltages when locking or unlocking the truck. I thought that maybe the multimeter was bad, so, using the same ground as before, I stuck the positive probe into a slot in the circuit panel and got 12v.

I have a 2007 4.0 v6 acess cab MT. Can anyone tell me where else to look? I started to test some in the door kick, but there are hundreds of wires and I ain't gonna test every freaking one. I am going to call Pop and Lock on Monday, but tomorrow is gonna be the last day I have time to work on the truck until next weekend.

 

^Those videos you saw, were they for double cab models? On an access cab, a door lock signal wire shouldn't have any reason to go under the door sill threshold panel.

 

Possibly, yes, I have looked at so many threads at this point I'm not sure. But I just reviewed the instructions again and they confirm it's definitely in the kick panel, not the step threshold. So I'm an idiot, gotta read the instructions more carefully.

 

This video might help you out. It is for the powergate but the the explanation of the location of the door lock wiring might help you out. Im also trying to find other info that may help. I have installed a few of the Power Pop N Locks on a several 2nd gens. If I find anymore info I will add it to this post.

Here are some threads that may help you out:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pop-and-lock-pl8521-power-tailgate-install-2012-tacoma.214928/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/have-you-wired-up-a-pop-n-lock-so-that.457889/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NE44B4rShY

 

Oh my God... Did you stab a hole in every single cable???

You are going to have nightmarish electrical issues down the line.

 

Well I'm going to patch them of course. Correct me if I'm wrong, but, uh, isn't that how you use a multimeter?

 

I try to avoid poking holes in wires but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

You could use that liquid brush on electrical tape. But I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

 

I didn't love doing it, but I was sure I was about to find the right one! Lol. Glad you wouldn't be too worried. Out of an abundance of caution I am gonna patch them all up. Somehow didn't know about liquid electrical tape, I'll check it out, thanks! I was considering a tiny drop of super glue.

 

Try tracing (taking the voltage reading) at the fuse or orientation relay. Another way is find the door lock fuse. Pull the fuse. Does the door lock still work, if yes you got the wrong fuse. Regardless, confirm you got the correct fuse. The correct fuse will connect to the wire you want to tap.

 

I’m not going to point out any faults. We all have to learn some how.
At least you are trying.
I will say, a needle works better. It leaves a smaller hole.
Or maybe ask first, we could have helped prevent the confusion.

Blue/Black wire of the IC3 connector.
Blue/Red of the IC1 connector

 

Thanks TNshooter, appreciate the kindness. I wanted to try to solve on my own before posting another thread on the matter, but with yalls help i have certainly got this now.

Regarding the needle. Do you just afix it to the probes? Or is this a different type of lead entirely?

Edit: Holy shit there are a whole world of leads I had no idea about!!

 

No, you stick the needle in the wire.
Then the meter leads on the needle.

They actually make piercing leads for meters that do this.
But not many DIY guys would ever need them.

 

They also sell a circuit tracer we refer to as a Screamer. Not saying this would have sorted it out for you, but handy when needed and no damaging the insulation.

 

I second on the needle, it's still crude but it doesn't bluntly enter the wire like a meter does. Circuit tracer is the best but few outside of the electronics or automotive industry use them, good ones are expensive and overkill for the casual guy figuring something out. Back probes are pretty good and allot cheaper and will work like the pin does while allowing you to plug into the probe with the meter.

 

Did you read the instructions?

https://vehiclesecurityinnovators.c.../06/PL8540-toyota-tacoma-smart-lock-combo.pdf

For 2-Door and Access cab models the wire will be tied into either side kick panel (the plastic cover next to where your feet go).

And STOP probing wires. You apparently have no idea how many problems this is going to cause you.

 

To address something that hasn't yet, it depends on your meter. Depending on how you are holding the switch, some of the less expensive meters don't have the fast response needed to display a single pulse.

And to beat the dead horse, I prefer to trace wires to their junction and probe them there.

 

True on that. Min max function is good in that situation.