Amateur (Ham) Radio BS and Callsign Thread!

I thought gmrs was limited to 5 watts on the shared channels, 0.5 watts on frs and 50 watts on gmrs channels. I never saw a rule about a detachable antenna. I am new to all of this though so please correct me if I misunderstood.

 

https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2017/08/29/2017-17395/personal-radio-service-reform

 

(a) 462/467 MHz main channels. The limits in this paragraph apply to stations transmitting on any of the 462 MHz main channels or any of the 467 MHz main channels. Each GMRS transmitter type must be capable of operating within the allowable power range. GMRS licensees are responsible for ensuring that their GMRS stations operate in compliance with these limits.

(1) The transmitter output power of mobile, repeater and base stations must not exceed 50 Watts.

(2) The transmitter output power of fixed stations must not exceed 15 Watts.

(b) 462 MHz interstitial channels. The effective radiated power (ERP) of mobile, hand-held portable and base stations transmitting on the 462 MHz interstitial channels must not exceed 5 Watts.

(c) 467 MHz interstitial channels. The effective radiated power (ERP) of hand-held portable units transmitting on the 467 MHz interstitial channels must not exceed 0.5 Watt. Each GMRS transmitter type capable of transmitting on these channels must be designed such that the ERP does not exceed 0.5 Watt.

 

The bend had nothing to do with you're reduced reception. That antenna would receive fine with a bend like that, if it were in open space. What impacted receive (and also will impact transmit) is the proximity to the A-pillar. The antenna is definitely coupled to the pillar. The ditch light mounting location is also going to couple a bit. It's a huge improvement over an inside antenna though.

VHF receive is generally awful inside a car. UHF is a little less awful.

 

It's not legal to use a ham radio to transmit on GMRS, even if you have a ham license and a GMRS license. As ham radios are not type certificated for any allocation. They're not even type certificated for the ham allocation. As a licensed ham, you're expected to understand the technical requirements of the ham allocation and ensure your equipment is performing to meet those requirements. All of this is in lieu of any FCC type certifications, and only in the Amateur allocation.

The specifications you indicated are for the unlicensed FRS radios. CB, FRS, and GMRS all fall under FCC part 95. However, each of those services have unique hardware requirements and unique type certifications. It's my understanding that the recent changes to GMRS also make it clear that Part 90 certificated radios are now legal for use on GMRS.

 

I actually tested it while listening on a NOAA channel, the reception drastically drops off the more you bend the antenna. That tied with the A Pillar didn't help either. I got some reception loss outside the vehicle as I bent the antenna obviously more while inside the vehicle next to the pillar. I wasn't going to do ditch light mount I was actually going to take it out a foot or so onto the hood with a lip mount to distance it from the cab a bit. I have a 7' garage door as well as park in a 7' parking garage daily so I cant drill and use a NMO mount on the roof.

 

Yes. That is the point i was making for the person asking the question.

 

How has everyone configured their D710G for use with APRSDroid? Specifically exactly what port to plug in the cable...

 

I have. If I can switch from my linux machine to windows, I'll PM you a .pdf of the cables, devices, and settings. It does use a Mobilinkd TNC2. Just so you know. You need something between the D710 and the android device.

 

cool, I would greatly appreciate it. I have the TNC2 and the miniDIN-6 cable.

 

You'll need a second cable, one that switches the posts of the miniDIN-6. Figured that out the hard way. PM sent.

 

Why not share info here? I am interest in D710G just hoping for a sale or something to pull trigger.

 

Not sure how to share a .pdf here but will show as attachment in pm. Let me see if i can find a link to my google drive

Edit: If interested in D-710 running APRS via APRSDroid heres a link to a basic .pdf of settings and cables needed

 

You can attach a .pdf to any post on here.

 

If you havent seen this yet, it's a must read for the d710 with aprsdroid and gives you some options.

https://github.com/ge0rg/aprsdroid/wiki/Kenwood-D7x0

You should also look at this from aprsdroid.org, except the second screenshot of the radio display shows GPS input as off, and it should be on per the github instructions above.

http://aprsdroid.org/kenwood/

I didnt feel like building cables, so I found a slightly different option that doesnt use the data port on the back of the remote head and purchased a home-brew bluetooth module off Ebay built for the d710 that instaed uses the rj45 remote head cable for power to the bluetooth (and I assume APRS data). According to the sellers description, it is based off an hc-06 aurduino module. It was expensive at almost $100...but i didnt have to figure it out and it was basically plug and play. I imagine you could build one for under $50.

In my application I am bypassing the add-on GPS module and using aprsdroid to send GPS over bluetooth to the radio for beaconing.

 

Mobile operating question:

I have 2 Icom5100s. One in the shack with a 10 ft diamond antenna. The other new in my truck. The unit in the home shack has almost zero noise between transmissions, the squelch is set at 2. The one in the mobile has static on all channels until I set the squelch at 8.

I’ve check all connections. And can receive signals from pretty far away.

Any thoughts on why I have so much static on the truly mobile rig. Note the power is direct off battery and the noise does not change with truck running or not. It is clear static.

Thanks
73
K1SIB

 

It was covered recently either in this thread or ano other...
Besides the type of antenna, where one could be more or less ground dependant, and having your antenna bracket grounded. Supposedly our trucks are "noisy".
Check if you have all that noise with truck OFF, Ignition ON engine OFF, and engine ON.
You could have a noisy USB adapter - there was an issue with someone's dashcam power supply/wire.
Maybe someone with more experience will chime in with better ideas.
Good luck



Edit, I've igored missed last paragraph of your post.... Sorry

 

I start by ignor(ance)! Thanks...it's ham radio...the whole point is to figure it out and I will.

 

I've noticed I've had all kinds of interference since I installed HID light bulbs in the truck. What kind of things should I check to correct this issue? I haven't tried anything yet... But, I am planning on moving everything off the battery itself and onto a fuse block. Thanks in advance.

 

Maybe try a choke on the lamp line at one or both ends.