Amp Help/Suggestions

+1

 

i had this problem with the same amp, i ended up frying my amp because of a bad ground. i was grounded at the bolt that holds the seat on. it turns out that ground had 40 ohm's of resistance to the battery. if you dont know what that means basically the amp had power going to it but none leaving. if i were you i would get a multimeter and check your ground.

 

No sirs, i have actually talked to experts on this. When i got my subs i went to multiple different places and actually talked to a JL person himself on this matter. They can categorize the companies by the reliability of their products and the better companies are more true to their word. JL and Alpine are much more accurate with their ratings. A 1000/1 amp will be constantly putting out 950-1000 watts at all times, plus at some points will be putting out around 1100 plus. i trust people who actually do all of this stuff for a living compared to just the online stuff. Im not dumb and wouldnt buy my tires from the dealer like why would you try to insult me and think im retarded? I know my shit about things and i want you guys to disagree with me that he shouldnt get an Alpine to match his Alpine amp. tell me right now that an alpine amp will work best with his sub? if not even buying a JL 1000/1 HD which isnt the same company obviously, but its the best kind of amp you can buy period so it woukd still sound better

 

the jl person told you to buy all jl stuff??? well then it must be true! wierd... the salesguy at the chevy dealership told me i should buy all chevys too!

spend some time on an enthousiast audio website... then you'll find out why the best systems are not matched.

 

You sir are an ad executive’s wet dream.

If your amp is constantly putting out 950-1000 watts then you may want to consider turning down your gains and adjusting the fade option on your subwoofer. If this doesn't work, you should send the amp back to the manufacturer and tell them its throttle is stuck wide open.

 

Sorry home-slice, you are wrong on this.

As stated, of course the MFG wants you to purchase the same equipment. OF course a shop wants you to buy matching equipment. A lot of people want matching equipment. Does NOT mean that one brand or one line will sound better with its own brand of amps/speakers/subs/whatever else you want to toss in the mix.

You say you have "Talked to the experts" - who are the experts. The EE that designs amps, or the guy selling them? The independent tester, or the marketing team for XYZ company?

Also, for the record - Some dealers have really good pricing on tires. You may want to at least check... If you are going stock sizes, of course. Especially when it is something like the car company (that was using brand XXX) switches over to brand ABC for tires, they often clear out old inventory. Saw it at a Nissan place most recently.

 

I'm tired of dealing with this kenwood amp... sounds like shit, doesn't have close to enough power to push these 2 type R's in the dual sealed truck box in my double cab. With that said, can anyone give me a couple options that'll really work well with these subs. I'm just about ready to spend the $500 for the Alpine PDX M12. The only issue I'm having is the amp needs to fit in the pre-cut section of my box which is roughly 13" W x 11" D x 2.25" H.

 

What gauge wire is ran back there, and are there any other amps on the wire? Do you need terminals all on one side, or can they be on both?

 

There is only one amp. 8 gauge power and ground cable both ran from the car battery to the amp itself.

 

That may be a problem... 8ga is only rated at about 50amps for a 15ft run.

You wont be using anywhere near max for any given amp, but an M12 is rated at double that fuse rating. You will probably need to run a new power wire, and then stick with one of the digital amps for the size.

 

I'm in no means a stereo goorooh by any means...though I was under the impression that if I were to run the kenwood 1000w amp the 8ga would be sufficient. Was told however that if I experienced my lighting to dim that I'd need to up the gauge to 4ga. which has not happened so far.

 

Two things drive the cable gauge, both closely related to each other. (1) distance and voltage drop, and (2) current carrying capacity.

(1) impacts you since most amps are not strongly regulated (old Xtants, JL Slash series, etc being exceptions). That means as voltage to the amp drops, the amp output drops too.

(2) means being safe and not having a wiring fire.

Go here: http://www.bcae1.com/

On the right side, scroll down to #16 and read about power wire gauge. The info at BCAE is widely and highly regarded in car audio circles.

 

Did you also run the ground back to the battery? That line need to be as short as possible.

 

As short as possible for a chassis ground, but running back to the battery is an acceptable method as well, especially if you cannot get a good grounding point on a chassis - such as a fiberglass body where you cannot access the frame, etc.

 

Lbridges hit what I was eluding to... That amp, per the user manual only pulls 35amps, so the 8ga was a good suggestion. You are talking about moving to an amp with more than twice the power, and that will involve new wiring to be safe.

You can always run it with the current wiring, but check your wire for heat - but a new $65 amp kit is not the place to risk an electrical fire at. Besides, you can always use the 8ga wiring to set up a fuse block in your engine bay for accessories like lights, horns, etc.

 

he owns his own store and has for 30 years, selling all products actually. hes just an expert on JL, kicker, and alpine. and my subs needed that much power so idk why i would send it back, youre just trying to look smart honestly haha. so i like how you guys jump on me for telling him to go the same company as his sub, when in actuallity, he is...?

 

I'm not trying to "jump on you" but instead trying to make you think. For instance, why would you think your subs need 1000 continous watts? What would happen if your subs only recieved 400 watts? How about only 100 watts? Why do you think that it's not plausible that a salesman would try to push his or her product on you in order to gain more sales? Why would you think that alpine amps sound differently than kenwood amps?

 

I had a 12 inch w7 and before that i had two w6's before it so I need it...? Hahaha and I had an alpine 500 before and the sound had an amazingg difference. Plus ive been told by many that kenwoods and other companies just don't put out that much wattage that they say and they aren't reliable. The dub blows fuses also on anything smaller than 500 anyways so its dumb. It lowered my headlight brightness also because it sucked poeernfrom my battery because the amp was trying do hard. And I also researched everything and bought what I thought was best myself, Im not dumb or ignorant, I do things and do things right. And the right way to do them is match them together or it's just not really worth it

 

Me thinks you may be talking out of the wrong end, on something you may think you know about, but really, are just repeating marketing and salesmanship.

There was an "Amazingg difference" because you doubled the power, not because the Essque changed. As to the volume - guess what doubling the power does?

The "dub" did not blow fuses. Subs cannot blow fuses. What blew the fuses was you, not knowing what you were doing, turning the gain up too loud, and the *too small* power wire you ran not being able to supply the current.

And the reason your headlights dimmed? Not because of the "dub" either. That was (again) because your amp was drawing more power than the system had. Improper install, from the sound of it.

This made me LOL. Well done, if that was a joke. If not...

Read the above. It is pretty obvious you *DO NOT* do the research, you *DO* do things the wrong way.

And lastly, matching is for posers, competitors, or aesthetics. Those that actually research and "do it the right way" get the best quality, regardless of the brand. If it ends up matching, then super. If they decide they want it to match for aesthetics, super. If they are OCD and want it to match, super. But notice that none of those reasons are "it works best with its own brand".

Either way, I am glad you like your "dub" and hope it treats you well.

 

sigh...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ry-dogma/98693-myth-matching-brands-best.html