amp turns on then immediately off

So you've probably noticed I've made a few threads asking for help on my audio installation. Bare with me, first time and I've searched.
So everything is hooked up and I readily turn my truck on, ready for this shit to hit hard. Nothing.... my amp blinked once and went off. Tightened all the connections but still nothing. I thought maybe it was the remote wire not fully spliced into the receiver, but its tight. Help lol.

 

Is the remote wire spliced into the correct wire? i.e. ignition wire? Sounds like your amp is going into protect mode to me, is it brand new? What make is it? Have you checked your ground wire?

 

Make sure nothing is grounding out.

I had this happen recently when I was installing a stereo in my sister's car, it turned out I had accidentally tightened a bolt down on the remote wire and broken the shielding so it was grounding out causing the amp to go into protect.

 

The ground is solidly bolted down to the frame, underneath the click in door frame things.
Here's the amp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/186-5723699-4770367?a=B0037ZRP7G
I'm fairly sure I had the remote wire hooked up right. Spliced it into the blue/white wire on the back of my pioneer receiver. I also tried to hook it up to the red power wire in the back of the receiver but still the same thing.

 

Did you sand the paint off of the chassis under the ground? How long is your ground? It needs to be as short as possible.

Also, trace all your wires from front to back and make sure nothing is grounding out.

How are you sending audio signal? RCA's or speaker level input?

 

No I didn't sand the paint. There is a bolt that does down into the frame it sits about where the front door meets the back door, on the floor under the paneling. I have the ground bolted to that. The ground is MAYBE 12 inches. I have RCA cables running from the receiver to amp, blue and white.

 

Sand the paint off the chassis around the screw/bolt down to the bare metal so you get a good ground connection. there could be paint/primer in the threads of that hole that are preventing the amp from getting a good connection.

It's also usually best to make your own new ground. Sometimes it's hard to tell that the factory bolt hole is a good metal to metal connection.

 

Ill try that. Thanks. Also, my sub has 2 positive and 2 negative terminals. If it was hooked up wrong to the sub would this cause the problem?

 

Yes, you could have it wired so the Impedance (Ohms) are too low for the amp to remain stable.

Is your amp mono/2ch/4ch?

What Ohms is your amp rated to be stable down to?

You could potentially wire the voice coil down to 2ohm.

Post your model# of your sub and the model# of your amp and I can tell you how you need to wire it.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/186-5723699-4770367?a=B0037ZRP7G

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/186-5723699-4770367?a=B002ADO588

 

If the model # you listed is right, you have Dual 4 ohm Voice coils which leaves you a two methods. One is @ 8ohms or @2 ohms. The amp is rated at 900 watts rms @ 2 ohms so I'm kinda leary about wiring it that way because the sub is only rated at 800 watts RMS maximum.

I'm sure someone else could chime in on this, but I personally would wire at 8ohms since that puts you in "safe" range. The only downside to this is that you aren't giving it it's full power potential at 8ohms.

If you had purchased the dual 2ohm voice coil version of that sub, you could wire it at 4ohms and be giving it 500 watts of power which is within range.


I personally only run about 180 watts to my 10" sub @ 4ohms. My sub is rated up to 300 watts rms.

Your amp is stable down to 1 ohm so the amp is ok...

 

I would wire it down to 2ohm. You'll most likely not run into any problems at any level other than cranked to the max. Your amp appears to be 1 ohm stable, so it shouldnt be going into safe mode due to ohm stability. I would check the fuses in the amp and your ground. It could also be that your amp was damaged in shipping and something internal got knocked loose.

 

Actually I think it is the dual 2 ohm version. If I remember correctly that's what it has on the box. How would I wire it as such? I have it wired as left positive and left negative.

 

This is straight from the owners manual

 

Which one's which lol? should I go with the center ones?

 

Basically take one wire and run it from (+) to (-) ...you are essentially connecting the two voice coils together. Then run your (+) from the amp to the (+) that's left and your (-) from the amp to the (-) thats left.

I think the picture pretty much explains itself lol

 

I know that part. But there are 2 negs and 2 pos on the sub. Does it matter which? How to I make it 4 ohm as opposed to 2 ohm? Probably idiotic question.

 

The way you wire it determines the impedance.

Do the terminals on your sub look like the picture above?

 

Yeah it lloks like the pic but has only pos and neg markings, with 2ohm over the top of each pair.

 

Ok so wire it just like the picture then.

Run a wire bridging the two middle connectors (+) and (-). then hook your speaker wire from the amp up to the other two.

This will wire you at 4ohms which according to your amp specs will give you 500 watts RMS.