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Annoying lack of heat problem!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CdnSldr, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. Dec 17, 2010 at 6:08 PM
    #1
    CdnSldr

    CdnSldr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Josh
    Northwestern Ontario (the only good part of ON)
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    '96 Sex on Wheels ;)
    Deckplate mod, Bilstein 3" C/O's, NWO 2.5" rear leafs w/ overload, OME greasable Shackles, 33/12.5/15 Dura trac's, 15" Wheelers Steelies Type "B", Sat. Radio, Diff breather mod
    Hey everyone,

    Let me introduce myself first. Ive got a 96 Tacoma w/ the 3.4 and some mods:D Ive been a long time guest on this forum using the search button to feed off of all of the very useful information! I hope you guys will help me out with some helpful responses.

    Please dont be ignorant when suggesting fixes...explain your reasoning, dont just shout out "CHANGE YOUR THERMOSTAT!" then be gone.

    The problem -
    I have been trying to figure this problem out for the past couple months. What I have happening is that my truck isnt producing heat into the cab. At times it is luke warm, and very randomly it will blow nice and hot.

    What I have figured out and what I have done so far -
    -Blower motor works
    -No coolant leaks (engine and cab/heatercore)
    -Level good
    -Both cables from control knob hooked up (the one to the valve on the firewall, and the other cable to the psgr footwell, there is flow thru the valve)
    -timing belt, waterpump and thermostat just changed (they are all functioning properly)
    -heater core was reverse flushed with a hose
    -truck heats up quick as it should to operating temp.
    -heater inlet and outlet hoses hot, there is also flow through the core
    -system was "burped" and bled repeatedly after changing the coolant


    All I can guess right now is that the fins on the heater core are so deteriorated that there is no heat exchange happening. The coolant is simply flowing through the tubes and the air around it...resulting in luke warm air. :confused:

    I am getting really tired of having frozen feet and a half fogged windshield all the time.

    I am calling out any self proclaimed experts ;) hehe challenging you to figure this out for me!

    much appreciated! :)
     
  2. Dec 17, 2010 at 7:41 PM
    #2
    loeborg

    loeborg Active Member

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    Chris
    Greenwich, CT
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    1998 Tacoma SR5
    I don't have the problem that you do but I noticed something while turning my heat control knob from cold to hot in the fall. I began turning the knob from left to right clockwise and began feeling resistance and suddenly there was a "skip" meaning the knob moved and the actual part attached to the knob did not move at all. So basically, my heat knob indicated that it was on full "red" when in fact it was still somewhere in between hot and cold. My solution to this was to get the truck to operating temperature and disconnect the cable from the passenger compartment to the mixing valve on the firewall and moved it manually from one side to the other and when I got full hot I put the cable back on and put the temperature selector knob on full hot. I know that if I sold the truck today and did not tell the new owner about it he or she would most likely end up replacing a whole bunch of parts unnecessarily. I know it seems obvious but it's one of those stupid situations that defy logic but are actually very simple. BTW 98 Taco 4x4 2.7
     
  3. Dec 17, 2010 at 7:58 PM
    #3
    CdnSldr

    CdnSldr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Josh
    Northwestern Ontario (the only good part of ON)
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    '96 Sex on Wheels ;)
    Deckplate mod, Bilstein 3" C/O's, NWO 2.5" rear leafs w/ overload, OME greasable Shackles, 33/12.5/15 Dura trac's, 15" Wheelers Steelies Type "B", Sat. Radio, Diff breather mod
    Thanks for the input. I have disconnected both and operated them independently...so Im rather certain they are functioning correctly. I notice the air getting distinctly colder when I move the valve in the footwell to the "cold" position, even with the coolant flow valve completely bypassed and coolant flowing thru the core.

    I am getting bloody frustrated this! I am real close to ordering a new heater core. I hate throwing parts at a problem but thats all thats left. lol Im just dreading tearing my dash apart to get at that sucker...
     
  4. Dec 17, 2010 at 8:30 PM
    #4
    ak47

    ak47 v.hey its my Avatar avatar.v

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    Anthony
    Washington
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    stock 2nd owner
    i have the same issue with my 99. new thermostat radiator and waterpump. very interested in what you come up with. i do not want to change the heater core.lol Good Luck!
     
  5. Dec 17, 2010 at 10:41 PM
    #5
    loeborg

    loeborg Active Member

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    Chris
    Greenwich, CT
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    For the hell of it, try putting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and see what happens. Faulty reading inside the cab on the gauge? It seems that if the heater core would be so bad that it would leak rather than not produce hot air. From the explanation you give to your problem you obviously know what you are doing. This one is interesting. What temperature thermostat did you put in? I'll be very interested what you come up with.
     
  6. Dec 19, 2010 at 1:49 PM
    #6
    CdnSldr

    CdnSldr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Josh
    Northwestern Ontario (the only good part of ON)
    Vehicle:
    '96 Sex on Wheels ;)
    Deckplate mod, Bilstein 3" C/O's, NWO 2.5" rear leafs w/ overload, OME greasable Shackles, 33/12.5/15 Dura trac's, 15" Wheelers Steelies Type "B", Sat. Radio, Diff breather mod
    I tried the cardboard thing. I actually slid it in between the rad and A/C condenser so that NO air was going thru the rad. For city driving (winter) the temp would stay in normal range, then as soon as I started driving more aggressively (ie. after a good snowfall doing some drifting/sliding :p) or when I got onto the highway the temp would shoot up on the gauge, so I would pull over, yank the cardboard out then the temp would drop (very fast) to normal range. My heater hoses and upper rad hose are getting hot, so I strongly believe that my temp gauge is functioning.

    I had another thought come to mind...my heater core could be partially plugged. Explaining the luke warm air.

    It also clicked when I was thinking over some tests I had performed. I had bought on of those "VEE" fittings for flushing the cooling system. You would install this "T" fitting on one of the heater hoses then you could hook up a hose and flush your system. I installed this fitting on inlet hose to the core then I unscrewed the plug on the fitting ( that you would normally plug a hose into) when the truck was running. As soon as I loosened the fitting coolant started gushing out (as expected). I did the same thing on the outlet side of the core. With the truck running I pulled the cap off of the VEE fitting. I was able to completely remove the cap without coolant gushing out. I could see the coolant flowing, but there wasnt much pressure.

    After some thinking this has led me to the conclusion that my core is partially plugged.

    FYI - I had previously hooked a pressure washer up to the heater hoses and flushed the core...both reverse and the proper way.

    I have ordered a new heater core to the tune of $142 with shipping. I am really dreading this job. From last time I had my dash off it looks like I am going to have to remove the main support bar that runs between the A pillars. Yah...the one the steering column bolts too. I will try and snap some pictures for future reference.

    If anyone has changed the heater core before or knows where I can find a write-up I would greatly appreciate it!!

    ohh also..the temp for the thermostat was 87* I believe. It was an ebay kit that included the timing belt, tensioner, idler, waterpump, thermostat, cam and crank seals and all the drive belts. They where all good quality parts. I think it was even a Toyota water pump.

    Cheers!
     
  7. Dec 19, 2010 at 2:58 PM
    #7
    mcguire

    mcguire Well-Known Member

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    andrew
    Rothesay New Brunswick, Canada
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    sky jacker leaf pack,crappy crap spacers,3"body lift,33" trail diggers,K&N intake,magnaflow muffler and high flow cat.
    i just recently had the same problem. took my truck and had the heatercore flushed.Lots of chunks and rust came out, but it works excellent now.
     
  8. Dec 31, 2010 at 12:43 PM
    #8
    Top Notch

    Top Notch New Member

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    Jeff
    Steamboat Springs, CO
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    Hello everyone, my name is Jeff and its my first post on the site, thanks for all of the excelent info.

    My 04' taco is having some similar problems...the heat blows nice and hot while the truck is driving down the road but when I park with the truck idling, the heat will turn cool. Not sure what the problem is exactly, but hope to figure it out since its about 2 degrees farenheit outside right now. Brrrr.

    Cheers,

    Jeff
     
  9. Jan 4, 2011 at 6:59 PM
    #9
    bowhunter11199

    bowhunter11199 Well-Known Member

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    SAME PROBLEM ( KINDA). i have a 98 3.4 6 cyclinder and my heater blows luke warm heat even after driving 40 for 10 min. i live in utah and my side windows COMPLETLEY fog and freeze and i cant even see in the mirror. if its cloder( 10 to -15) the upper and lower windsheild is the same thing.should i get every thing fulsed or what? PLEASE HELP
     
  10. Jan 5, 2011 at 5:44 PM
    #10
    bowhunter11199

    bowhunter11199 Well-Known Member

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    im pretty sure its my heating core but idk?
     
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