Another Crack - Just when I was about to order a lift kit

Just when I was about to pull the trigger on a lift kit UGH

Was doing a quick look around to see if I needed anything extra that didn't come in the OME Kit, I stumble upon this disaster.

Assuming I'm past the recall time?
I have a tire carrier recall open that needs to be addressed.

Is this worth the fix? I'm more worried about the structural integrity of the frame. I don't mind spending the money getting it fixed since I'm planning on driving it until it dies.


2001 Double Cab
123K on the clock
Stock Suspension
No other signs of frame damage.

 

Friend that looks pretty damn bad to me. I just see the whole thing jack knife-ing

 

Plus there is probably another one lurking on the frame somewhere else

 

Uh-Oh! not good...

 

No bueno. I've seen recently a post that they extended the 2001-2004 recalls on frames but never clicked on the link. I do know you can buy one for $3k. Maybe you can talk to some folks on here that can point you in the right direction that have been through it already. GL, hope Toyota treats you right and gives you a new frame.

 

Looking at your photo, I don't see a lot of cancer on other parts of your frame. It appears to be a stress crack that over time has allowed rust to develop inside the crack. If the frame rails are as solid as they appear, I think that could be easily fixed. Treat and stop the existing rust in the crack, and then weld steel plate over the outside and the bottom. To give you a little peace of mind, you could also cut and welding a boxing plate on the inside of the frame rail.

I would take a look at the frame rail on the other side and make sure you don't have one there as well.

 

I agree with

Yes, I agree

Without a doubt, there is more damage from rust; and places where it really hard to see

Fix it: I would not!

I would re-frame it if you could find a frame

I see from your avatar, you are from NY; the salt really does a number on some frames.

oldracer

 

Ooof...this reminds me I really need to weld my CBI frame reinforcement plates on that I bought a year ago.

 

Def not what I wanted to hear from some of you. :/ def accepting of the feat but before I either get rid of it or sell it as is,

How about this?
http://www.autorust.com/product/rear-forward-spring-area-toyota-tacoma-art-083-s/

 

I've seen 4x4wheeling use this for a repair just picking your brains at this point.

$3000 plus labor I'm thinking above the $7000 range for everything - not really looking to spend that much :/

 

Done it doesn't look like it's separating at the crack (other than the crack itself), I think dressing and welding and welding a fish plate over the repair would be sufficient. The key would be to repair the crack and remove any rust so the problem doesn't reappear after the fact. They've been doing similar repairs in the low-low scene when notching a frame to lower cars. You should be fine- there. No need to over complicate the repair if the picture you posted is the only damage.


That being said, that crack is a result of a failure or stress point somewhere else in the truck/frame. I suggest you try to find it and address that as well. It'll pay off in the long run.

 

You're in a 01 the window for replacement if it was even eligible has expired. The program states that if you had the corrosion inhibitor sprayed per Toyota's notice you'd be covered for 15years past the "in service date".

Time for fishplating or gussets.

 

Obviously we can't tell what kind of condition the rest of your frame is from 2 photos, but if what we can see is indicative of the rest of the frame, that's not a difficult repair. In fact, I think you can make the repair plates yourself and save some money. Take some cardboard and trace the frame, going out about 6" on each side of the crack, buy some steel plate (I think 3/16 would be plenty thick), use your cardboard pattern, trace it onto the steel plate. Use an angle grinder and cut out the plate. If it were me, I'd make 4 plates, 2 sets of inside/outside plates, and weld reinforcements on the other side as well, just to be safe. Take a wire brush to the areas that will be welded, then take the whole kit and kaboodle to a good welding shop and have them weld them in. Follow it up with a good primer and sealer. And you should get many more miles out of your truck.

 

Yeah man, I'd either make a frame plate like BKill said or buy a set of CBI Frame Plates for $70 plus shipping. If you do the prep work a welder can have the plates on in no time and then just paint them really well. Or rent a welder and do it yourself.

 

I love these trucks so if you can keep it alive without putting in a whole new frame I would go for that.

I think these other guys are more experienced than me, so I'd listen to their advise and give everything a solid look/poke/exam and find all the problem areas.

If you have another ride you could take the bed off and take your time going thru everything and getting it patched up.

If you throw $500-$1000 into it and get another couple years it'll totally be worth it. If you put that much and it dumps soon, it's not a big hit either.

My first gen is from CA and I have it back in MA now so I feel for you on rust and frame issues. I've been costing the undercarriage with fluid film in the fall and my frame is still looking nice with 1.5 winters on it. Couple spots of rust on the rear axle housing and the spindles where I didn't apply fluid film.

Sounds like you can make this work! But that crack does scare me.

Someone mentioned it being a stress crack originating from another area. How does he go about finding the original problem area?

 

Just fix it and move on

Then if your now to scared to no longer drive the truck .

Part it out !!

Sell for scrap I would come get it in a heart beat

I have repaired for worse then that

 

Not a big deal to repair that at this point. Drill end of crack out, grind into crack slightly, weld it up. Flap disc the weld down, fish plate the whole rear of frame. Paint. Drive.

 

That area of those frames is weak. That is the stress point. Nothing causing that but fatigue from being a weak ass part of the frame.

 

You DON'T want to go here...

 

Nothing expensive about that repair