Another Crank No Start | OBD2 No Comm + Xmas Tree Inst Panel w/Bonus ‘It hasn’t run in months’

Thanks! It just looked odd with it being crustier in some areas, plus it wasn't as prevalent on the other board. Sounds like it is still toast. Glad they aren't expensive. We are at 2 modules and counting now

 

1 yes

2 as long as the pins on the resistor aren't bigger than the male pins on the cluster your fine sticking it into the front of the connector.

3 the cluster doesn't need to be present at all to get communications working, we just need the required 60 ohms of network resistance (2 120ohm resistors) for things to communicate.

 

I wish I could add something other than that I've read this entire thread and will be following it for a hopefully positive outcome!
@Dm93 and @TnShooter , I applaud you both for your help and persistence in helping with this.
Threads like this help restore my faith in humanity (although I'm somewhat of a optimist so I don't need a lot).
Outstanding thus far.

 

@RageAgainstMyMachines I'm try to help here. But some moron was looking at the wrong manual.
And guess what, I learned the Meter is NOT on the CAN System for the 05'-11' trucks.

I literally had to ask Dm93 what you all were talking about, because my manual didn't say the Meter was on the system.

Now, if only RadioShack were still in business. We would have a resistor by tomorrow and checks happening.

 

We already do, awaiting results...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...’t-run-in-months’.802129/page-6#post-29484798

 

Well, someone needs to get to poking.
I'm invested now.

 

We might have to help fix the washing machine before we get back to the Tacoma

 

Add dog trainer to the list.
We gotta keep them dogs out of the swap.

I had a Beagle once, So I know how hard it is to keep them home. (You dodn't)

 

OK so yesterday sucked and I'm just going to accept the fact that I p*ssed away about 6-8 hours because I apparently can't 1.) Read or retain what I've read 2.) Tell the difference between 60 and 120 or 3.) Take good enough notes to demonstrate where I thought things didn't go as planned, but possibly did after all (see points 1 and 2). Maybe one day over a virtual beer I will tell the complete story of 1/14/24, but for now I'm going to forget it happened, request a do-over, and try this again.

I will say that I did see 60 Ohms at one point, and there was 120, and 45, and towards the end, the cheap OBD/CAN Scan Tool Code Reader thing even worked. It read the VIN and showed some codes and info that I also saw with the ECM bench read, which tells me it really did work. Recall, we’ve never been able to get one of these code readers to work on the truck. Photos provided.

My self-induced trip through hell yesterday left me with questions on the immobilizer registration process. When an ECM is replaced, pins TC and CG of the DLC are jumped/connected to register the immobilizer (?) as outlined in the FSM and attachment provided by @Dm93. So the pin jump was done a few weeks back – my questions are:

1.) Was the pin jump primarily to register the immobilizer?

2.) Would an ECU that doesn’t have the immobilizer registered only result in not being able to start the vehicle, or would it be prevalent elsewhere?

3.) How do I know if the registration worked, especially with a faulty combo meter?

4.) I've attached a screenshot from the questionable version of TechStream with what appears to be Immobilizer info. Is there anything here indicating the registration worked?

I’m heading back out now to reconstruct my steps starting with the resistor in the combo meter connector. I’ll also be replying while I'm out there instead of whatever I did yesterday that resulted in me needing this do-over.


Thanks so much for being patient with me

 

It looks line the immobilizer is online and registered to 1 master key?
As for starting, You may have other issues. We need the CAN system online to see if there are any other issues that could prevent the truck from starting.

 

No worries, I'm not doing much today anyway, it's in the 20s outside which for us in South Texas is coooold.

1 yes.

2 Correct, it will only prevent the truck from starting.

3, 4 If the Immobilizer isn't registered or working properly you should have Immobilizer (B27xx) codes present in the PCM and/or Immobilizer.

 

OK I'm live from the scene. Had to do some tidying up first and readjust the lighting for this can of whoop-ass I'm about to open here.

With the resistor = 55.8

Without resistor = 104.8

Battery unplugged, testing resistance at pins 6 and 14 at DLC

Hope those are close enough. I'm not touching a thing without official directive

 

A little low but close enough, the tolerance is +/- 10% on both resistors according to the FSM so your good.

 

Cool. That one resistor has been shoved into a few things and has probably seen better days. Is there any other resistance to test while the battery is unplugged?

Also, FYI - with the combo meter plugged in, it dropped to that weird 3.2 number.

 

Check them (pins 6 and 14 of the DLC) to pins 4 and 5 and pin 16 of the DLC to make sure we don't have any shorts to power or ground.

 

I may have graduated from moron to outright dumb@$$ after spending the entirety of yesterday afternoon wondering why I kept getting 55-60 Ohms on the multimeter, instead of the 120 I erroneously had etched in my brain. I would literally kick my own butt if I could.

 

It happens to the best of us.

 

Don't feel bad, I think you have far exceeded anyones expectations for not having any background in automotive electronics.
Your doing fine, I still have plenty pants on head moments and I do this kinda stuff all the time.

 

Using 2 meters because they are cheap. "Same" meant within a few tenths. I measured at the breakout box and at the DLC. Hopefully I'm looking at the wrong part of the FSM, but these numbers don't exactly seem right.




I'm not opposed to getting a good multimeter, and have seen some recommendations in other threads on TW. If there is a favorite or preferred that can be recommended, please let me know. I have credits at most of the online commerce sites (eBay/Amazon/Mercari/Poshmark). Yes, Poshmark has multimeters lol.

Photo evidence of why it sometimes takes me forever to do this.

 

Nah cheap meters are accurate enough for all the tests we are doing, no need for a high end meter.

So it looks like we still have an issue on the bus, those readings are pretty low.
I would expect to see them over 1k ohms, this is with the battery unhooked correct?
If so time to start unplugging more stuff, the Skid Control ECU (ABS Module) would be the next easiest thing to unplug.