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Another CV axle.. okay to drive on??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Hoover, Jun 18, 2018.

  1. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:26 PM
    #1
    Hoover

    Hoover [OP] Clear alcohol is for rich women on diets.

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    Hoover
    Idaho
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    RevTek & 5100s. Blocked on rear. K&N intake. Fog light mod. Flashlight holder. LED interior lights.
    Hey guys/gals, my boots are toasted on both sides of my taco. So I’ve started the search to do this myself, I don’t trust anyone else. I’ve always been the only one to love on my taco. Hopefully it’s not too bad?
    Anyways the reason for a new thread, has anyone used these ones(I’m looking at the HD ones)? What are the best ones to replace my old ones, I’m planning on replacing entire axle, not just the boot, good idea? Do I need seals, bearings, etc? I’m search TW as you read this, so no redundant info needed.
    Thanks taco owners!

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  2. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:48 PM
    #2
    RicanTacoma

    RicanTacoma Well-Known Member

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    scottalot, Hoover[OP] and Sandman614 like this.
  3. Jun 19, 2018 at 6:06 AM
    #3
    Hashc93

    Hashc93 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my passenger side with this and it seems well made. The install was pretty easy too. Hardest part is pushing the new one in.
     
  4. Jun 21, 2018 at 10:07 AM
    #4
    Hoover

    Hoover [OP] Clear alcohol is for rich women on diets.

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    RevTek & 5100s. Blocked on rear. K&N intake. Fog light mod. Flashlight holder. LED interior lights.
    So something has come up and I have to drive to UT. It will be about 700miles total for the trip. Is it okay to drive that many miles on these CV axles? Or do I need to plan another way down. I can get these babies fixed when I return home.
     
  5. Jun 21, 2018 at 10:18 AM
    #5
    BEE-ROCK

    BEE-ROCK Well-Known Member

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    If they aren't 'clicking' or making any weird noises they will be fine to drive on. The torn boot will just allow more dirt, water and debris in.
     
    Alexely999 likes this.
  6. Jun 21, 2018 at 11:35 AM
    #6
    I3uller

    I3uller Well-Known Member

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    Yeah you’ll be fine to drive on them but they’ll fail eventually. I used CVJ as well and can vouch that they’re good folks and the axles seem very well made.
     
  7. Jun 21, 2018 at 12:14 PM
    #7
    4WD FTW

    4WD FTW Well-Known Member

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    I had the Cardone axles for over a year with no issues, prerunning and all. The boots got cracked from abuse, but did not break. People say aftermarket is not as good as OEM but I have had good luck so far. I would check out NAPA, their axles are closer to OEM, they have little notches and tabs that help with install/removal. They also have your standard rubber boots, or a thermoplastic boot which is supposed to be better. I'm running thermoplastic boots now and so far so good. They ran me ~$230 for both and had them in stock. The cv comes with one seal but you may need to replace the one behind your spindle/hub if it's bad. They are cheap, and NAPA/Orielly/Autozone all have them in stock usually. PN for inner seal (diff side) is 710477. PN for outer seal (hub side) is 710573. I only did the hub seal on mine, didn't mess with the diff side at all.

    As for driving on the old ones, like said above they should be fine as long as there is still grease in there and no noises when turning. If they start going bad you'll hear clicking with each wheel rotation while turning. My oem axles were like yours and I ran them like that for a long time. They never made noises and are honestly probably still good.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2018
    Alexely999 likes this.
  8. Jun 21, 2018 at 12:23 PM
    #8
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Have them rebuilt by CVJ in Denver. They're the best on that side of the US. Over here it's Axles Unlimited in Charlotte.
     
  9. Jun 22, 2018 at 3:26 PM
    #9
    spark4

    spark4 Well-Known Member

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    Replaced my cv axle with a Napa heavy duty boot version. I looked into the cvj but needed it ASAP so I went with Napa. Two years later no issues. In the meantime I bought grease and seal kit from Toyota to rebuild The one I pulled out to keep as a spare.
     
    MolonLabeTaco likes this.
  10. Jun 22, 2018 at 3:32 PM
    #10
    Hashc93

    Hashc93 Well-Known Member

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    I saw a post on here where they tied a cable around the shaft to pull it out with a hammer. I did this and It worked great. Good luck!
     
  11. Jun 22, 2018 at 5:15 PM
    #11
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Yeah. They can be good as long as you stay on asphalt. The off-roaders generally swear by OEM. You may want to keep your old ones as they can be rebuilt at your convenience.
     
  12. Jun 22, 2018 at 5:21 PM
    #12
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Nothing beats OEM quality. If you compare the OE axle shafts compared to aftermarket you will see a very notable difference in axle thickness. Everything in the aftermarkets are just inferior quality by comparison and it reflects in the price.
     
    Benny123[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jun 22, 2018 at 5:23 PM
    #13
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Absolutely. I went OEM too. But op was in a pinch and couldn't have them rebuilt.
     
  14. Jun 23, 2018 at 1:44 AM
    #14
    I3uller

    I3uller Well-Known Member

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    I just got behind the inner dust shield and the front diff with a screw driver and gently wiggled around in there for a while until it eventually just came out.
     

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