Another dead battery

Good to know, thanks

 

I really only need the Battery tender during the winter months here for the Camaro , during the warmer months it starts easier . It's the locked out timing and high compression that fights the starter and drains the battery

I try and start it every 2 weeks during the winter and even with the battery disconnect off which shuts the power off .The battery has a hard time especially with extended cranking and my MSD 7 box needing at minimum 11 volts during cranking

During the warmer months it starts quickly and easily . I remember a few years ago I had an Optima red top that had over 1k cca capacity and it started easier now I can only find a 800 cca battery and that maybe the problem !!

 

Stopped by another dealer for a test. The guy said it was fine and handed me this. Died this look like a proper load test?

Truck barely started again this am. If I leave the lights on for two min it will not turn over...

 

You're down 31amps and your batteries at 75%-80% of normal

 

Understood, but it’s struggling. As stated earlier, I’m down to under 10v after sitting with the lights on for a couple min.

The water is down a hair in a couple cells so I’ll pick up some distilled and top it off. I suppose I’m going to just go ahead and buy a replacement.

 

A healthy battery should also be 12.8 volts or higher

If it's struggling to start it could be a bad cell where the plate is starting to sulphate

 

Usually more heavy duty, a longer warranty, bigger cold crank amps, etc. A top quality battery like a NorthStar I believe has a 4 year free replace warranty, but they are spendy. I don't know how many years they last on average, but I know it's a popular battery. Maybe somebody that has one can chime in on their longevity.

 

That print out is from a Midtronics GR8.
All manufacturers are going to this type of battery tester. This is something the manufacturers are requiring, not the dealership. If the battery fails there is a warranty claim code at the bottom. The dealership needs to submit that code to Toyota for reimbursement. It will also charge the battery if needed before it will run the test. I’ve seen up to two hour charge time. That’s why the dealership said, drop it off.

Ok to answer your questions.
No that machine does not do a proper load test like testers of the past it’s all electronic but it’s what Toyota requires.
It’s stupid and it causes false tests sometimes but the dealerships hands are tied.

All that said, as already stated in here.
The quality of lead acid automotive and motorcycle batterys as been on the decline in the last five or so years. It’s not all of them it’s hit or miss. Some are junk and some last a ridiculous amount of time.

I would get a load test at a auto parts store, after dealership hours and buy a battery if it fails. Then submit it to Toyota.

 

Also a battery in that price range is of higher quality , ( battery Is mfgd with better technology using high end components)

 

If you've got a high end multimeter such as a Fluke you can perform your own battery load test

https://youtu.be/tsJUuLu1cw0

 

MIL's '16 RAV4 needed a battery last month. Tested bad. Replaced under warranty.
Wife's '15 Subaru battery is a bit sluggish and we are heading out of town so I just went ahead a purchased a new one. Dealer is 90 miles away...
My '05 2nd gen battery lasted 7 years. OEM batteries are just crap these days.

 

Awesome post. Thanks.

 

You can also use a lower quality multimeter , you just have to watch the screen more carefully for the low voltage reading

 

I have successfully argued that a bad alternator caused consequential damage to my battery. On more than one occasion I received a new battery when an alternator failed in warranty.

 

Correct, the stock alternator does not put out enough amps to fully charge a AGM battery to 100% after a deep discharge. You would need to put it on a smart charger about once a month to ensure that it is being charged to 100% every so often.

If you never charged it with a smart charger and just left it in the truck for the alternator to charge, it would only charge to around 80% and eventually that is where the memory of the battery would stay.

I'm over 3 years on my stock battery, but the voltage is dropping to 11.0v once the truck is off. It's struggling more and more to crank, so I'll need one soon if I had to guess. Not sure if I want to replace it with another lead acid, or bite the bullet and get an Odyssey and their expensive ass smart charger.

 

I'd like AGM for trails and just use my Battery Tenders every once in a while, but I'll most likely stick with a lead acid when the time comes. Of course, jump packs make the eventual worry easier.

 

This has happend to me. Had a Honda civic long ago that the battery died in 6 months after replacing it on my own....replace under warranty....died in 3 months....replaced under warranty died the following week and the alternator died also....bad alternators do destroy batteries.

 

The factory Toyota battery is crap.. it’s warrenteed Up to 30000 miles, mine crapped out at 2950, jumped my truck and took it to the dealer they installed a new one.. the same one.. atleast Now I know how much miles till I buy a optima yellow top

 

Can I test my alternator with a multi meter? Or with fusion?

 

You can see the voltage output with OBD Fusion.

It's under Alternator Output Duty Ratio.