Another dead battery

I changed to this PID but it’s not as easy to monitor this way, or it could likely be that I just don’t understand what I’m looking at. Am I supposed to calculate on the fly and in my head the displayed percentage of an unknown voltage? What am I missing? I’d rather just see a voltage output.

 

Mine is showing a constantly fluctuating value of anywhere from the teens to ~ 70, so this can’t be voltage

 

That’s globalism. I have heard since optima is made in Mexico now they suck. I’ll bet CA made some mandate requiring less lead in batteries and rest of country followed. Lead birdshot shot is illegal now too.

Is there a list of made in USA batteries anywhere?

 

I swear by Interstate, they have the best warranty and I believe 90% of them are USA made, they have to be indicated with a special sticker for the Mexican ones. We sell them in Canada and can warranty them in the US on a road trip, thats freaking awesome.

 

One reason I switched out the power plugs for more switch locations was to have a dual usb/voltage display so I'd know what the battery and alternator were doing. Bought the truck used a bit less than 2 years ago and I believe they put new shoes and a battery in it. The alternator gets the display up to ~14.2V. 24F so no tow package but someone installed the hitch and bumper plug. Checking out that wiring is on the todo list before towing.

 

Yes it was directed towards you. I thought I seen a light bar so that’s why I said that. Realized it was just a rack. But I also see you have a solar setup. I do remember reading a post where you mentioned it I believed. Can’t remember if you said it was for an auxiliary source or is connected to the trucks electrical. Either way it could easily be a factory component that failed, or is staying energized. Or like I said, if you only do short trips around town and or don’t drive the vehicle much, it may just not be getting a long enough charge while driving and it’s finally started to take its toll on the battery. Also make sure the top of the battery is clean and free from debris. This, coupled with vented acid and chemicals from the battery can cause a parasitic draw. There are lots of possibilities. The battery could truely be bad and is reading ok on their tester. Usually they have 2 different machines for the battery test. They sometimes have a hand held one that prints those receipts too. Those don’t work as good as the big stand up ones that also charge the battery. Usually the big ones charge the battery and then kinda idle until the battery is back at a normal temp after recharging, then it will perform the the test. Not sure if their machine is set up that way or if they ended up using a handheld one. That’s how it was at the Honda dealer I worked at anyway.

If you check for a draw and there are no signs, then I would try and trickle charge it overnight (removed from the truck) and then first thing in the morning see how it fires up. Then (if ones close) I would drive it to autozone or advance auto and have them do a free battery check on it after it’s been fully charge. That way you should get a lot more accurate of a reading.

 

If you go with the Odyssey 34R, Amazon has the tray for 8 bucks. They have the battery for 295.00 I think that's the direction I'm headed soon. My stock Batt is going on 3 1/2 years.

G.

 

What is the warranty on stock batteries?

 

oops, I was mistaken it is actually a percentage. I told you I don't use it much lol.

Here is an old screen shot from mine.

 

Just sent to the service manager at the dealer I bought truck from. Included a letter stating the circumstances and need to get truck fixed ASAP. Included copy of receipt from Advance Auto and picture of battery installed. They sent documentation to Toyota who approved payment and check came direct from dealer to me.

 

What’s that app you’re using?

 

OBD Fusion

 

AGM batteries do not develop a memory. They are still lead acid batteries with a glass mat to contain the acid.

 

Some of the PIDs have confusing names. If anyone knows which one measures alternator voltage output please let me know...

 

I believe 3/36 direct replacemnt

 

Any reason I shouldn’t temporarily install without a tray besides the risk of the battery moving?

I’m not sure if I’ll use a 2gen tray or make one. The only benefit to using an aftermarket tray would be if the tray mounts to the truck with hardware, and the j bolts then attach to the tray instead of putting that tension on the sheet metal in the stock locations. Am I missing anything?

 

Bad if you hit a bump and it's loose.

 

It’s pretty snug

 

We had a bit of snow where I live, first time in decades really. Going to pick up the kids from school, pass the Arco (place is empty) but I know the Costco down the street is cheaper. I go there and it is packed 5 cars deep, why? U turn, Pick up the kids and go to the empty Arco. Best 10 cents a gallon I've ever spent. Even if it is shit.

 

Im on my third battery in 5k miles on a new truck. 1st died at 3400 miles, second 5 weeks later at 4400 miles and now the third has it resting voltage dropping. Its now at 11.9 as resting voltage, (Other batteries did same from 12.3/4) (current battery 5 weeks old) meaning it will be dead again and leave me stranded again shortly. Once it gets to 11.6v the truck wont start since their is so many things that turn on as soon as you open the door, even the hood open draws current with the stupid sensors everywhere. It takes Toyota 4 hours to do a GD load test, done this twice now. They have no idea why. Alternator is fine, toyo cant do anything unless its on fire or their are tons of dummy lights on. Just keep telling me to bring it in when it dies. Thanks. Its ok though Toyota told me that 11 volts is an acceptable voltage for these batteries.