Another go at sorting out Oil in Airboxes...

Yep

if I remember correctly, I stuffed half of SS pad inside to the bottom

now mine has 1500 -/+ miles since OS install
But
Saw a thread while back
Member installed OS…changed oil after 5k
And was shocked at the crap inside the OS…..as was I
Showed that $4 part does work

 

This might be it

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yes-you-need-an-oil-separator-can.811109

lemme check mine…..
THatt might have experience too(as he helped me out with installing)
As far as nasty stuff caught in can

 

Did you get donor CV axles and create some dummy ends? If you try to run an ADD front end without CVs the wheels will fall off.

 

Straight up oil
Maybe 2Tbl spoons

 

I see, looks functional, and about 50% steel of what was in my kit.

 

Indeed, sorry, I forgot to mention this could be dangerous. I was just driving around the block to get some load on, get the oil circulating. I wouldn't want to remove the brake calipers. Luckily I didn't have to slam on the brakes.

 

Wow, yeah, that goo looks ugly, like an elementary school trash can during flu season. Your oil at least looks like clean oil. After I test drive, I can see just a thin layer of mist, I guess indicating that gases are flowing through the system.

 

Agreed^^^^^

now I’m thinking…… that the chocolate milk looking snott(!) might not be good
Unk/puzzled what would cause that oil/water mixture in the catch can

 

So today's report on this: The vehicle was put back together after a few errand runs, and a couple of oil drains, filter changes and examinations, which found varying degrees of small shmutz in the bottom of the pan. And the installation of the oil catch can. From my look at it, the Delo is absorbing and suspending the small sludge and varnish as one would expect.

Then I threw caution to the wind and drove it out to the middle of nowhere and back (which is the need that warrants having this truck in the first place) and upon removing the catch can, found a good 1/2 cup of oil in it after every 90m of driving. The oil looks good, and presumably is not making it into the airbox or throttle body any longer, but jees, that's just too much oil to be making it through the (new) PCV circuit, in my estimation.

To review:
1) the engine does not smoke
2) the vehicle passes smog
3) the valves are well adjusted
4) the engine runs smoothly, and has appropriate power.
5) I have not found that I needed to add a pint of oil every week, maybe a 1/2 quart every 5,000 miles (that's about a year's worth of forest commute for me.)

So, valve seals ? WTF?

thx - gax

 

My oil catch can fills up about every 200 miles during the winter and I hardly need to check it in the warmer months because it most of what's being collected evaporates in the heat. I also have a small filter on top of my catch can so it doesn't get pressurized from the turbo.

Hope this continues to get cleaner as you go

 

Hmn, interesting. I saw those filter-top can options, didn't quite understand what that was for.

And me too!

 

Now that I think about your experience, we'll see if it aligns; out here it was around 80˚F on my trek last weekend, so not particularly north American winter. You're saying you've noticed more oil when it's freezing out, but little accumulation when it's 80˚ or something? That sort of implies I'm gonna fill my can when I move the truck for street cleaning in December.

 

The rings on the pistons are gonna look just like the engine head...sad but true
its most likely the blow by.

bernie's cleaner would of freed the rings.......but risk setting off an avalanche from above...


I think you're only hope is change oil often......like every 3500....
toyota over builds so much....you might get another 100K out of it...
you may get 'T' boned long before that ever happens.


A lot people who could afford these in the past.....were masters of neglect
busy with life.......

 

I was thinking about it last night and wonder if there's a way to get your catch can up higher so the oil inside the lines will try and flow back into the engine instead of towards the can. I also was wondering if the PCV valve has been gunked up to the point of malfunctioning.

Another thing I changes was to remove the catch can dipstick since it was pretty pointless and never read accurately in my setup. The dipstick unthreads from the bottom of its handle so the handle and O ring is still there to plug the dipstick hole. I was tired of trying to work the can around the dipstick when emptying it

 

what collects in mine is definitely more of a thin watery mix which is why it evaporates through the filter better in the hotter months. I also replaced the wire mesh in mine with half of a stainless steel kitchen scrubbing pad

 

Yeah, I take your points. Most here and elsewhere suggested minimal 'cleaning' attempts, for multiple reasons, mostly letting sleeping dogs lie. I have a boxes of filters and Costco discounted Delo, so I'll get hyperactive on the oil changes, not a huge investment; now I can do it blindfolded, even the ridiculous wrestling with the oil filter position.

This truck was owned by a termite inspector who drove it 210K but apparently too tired to ever change the fluids after a long day of poking wood with a screwdriver.

If you find yourself seeing the future, let me know about the 'T' bone schedule - I'll leave the kids at home that day!

 

Hmn, yeah, you got more water in there I guess, just from hot/cold condensation...? My can came with that SS bundle, seems like a lot, nearly fills the can. I could maybe raise it slightly, but it wasn't far below the top of the airbox. The dipstick prevents it from being convenient for sure; I guess what do I expect for $4.25. Dumping oil as a routine is cheaper than buying a new truck clearly. I did replace the PCV valve and hose; that was the first fingers-crossed repair, which did nothing but let more oil into the air system.

 

I wonder if you could benefit from the filter top version of the can. Regardless I would still try mounting it higher up. It's really only intended to catch oil vapors that then condensate in the SS baffling. It may not make much of a difference either way.

I think you're on the right path with short oil change intervals. I do mine at 3k miles just to keep things running smoothly but in your case I'd probably lean closer to 1500 or 2k for a while or something like once a month. That picture under the valve covers was nuts, have you opened those up again I'd love to have another look.

I'd also be curious to what Blackstone Industries would have to say if you got an oil sample tested.

I like that you haven't just dropped a new engine in it, keep it running for science!

 

You know what it means when your losing so much oil and the level rarely drops....


I would even think about sub 3K changes



I have an old 4banger.....nothing but stop and go traffic...
so ..... mine every 2K .......and only do the filter every 3rd or 4th time...

I can find house brand 5qt oil on the local auto adds for less than $14....
napa with a discount.....

cheapest insurance I ever bought..


takes 2 min to drain.....about 4 to fill.....
I have that 14mm on a speed handle, right next to the garage door...

buy the toyota funnel.....

 

Yeah, I like things that make sense too. I send oil samples to Peterson Caterpillar regularly for my heavy machinery, it's less than $20 including shipping, so I could sample that way easy. I guess I'd have to pretend it was from a Caterpillar engine. But they find minute traces of all sorts of things in oil. I'll post the report if I can do it.

Aside from being a poor soul, the notion that 'just dropping in a new engine' is some sort of cake walk simple solution, strikes me as a down play of the hassle. I actually don't own a garage. You have a number of peripheral devices to renew, water pumps, radiators, all sorts of bits. And pulling everything apart and remembering where they go, etc. And then there's the run-in... ...I don't think our local distributor of rebuilt Taco motors breaks them Dyno or otherwise. I just found a ring seating issue with a BMW motorcycle of mine, and somehow breaking in a motor is the last thing I want to do at the moment. Where the vehicles live is exactly the wrong place to break-in motors, the land of a zillion tech workers sitting in traffic jams; no place for proper run-in driving. But I like the 1st gen Taco I have; it's perfect for our application, getting out to remote land on old logging roads, so a fresh motor is attractive. The chassis is in pretty good shape, albeit an automatic transmission with 240K. Anyway, one headache at a time, as they say....