Another LED Bed Light Thread

Nicely done. Note to all, any wire you solder must be kept free of movement and vibration or they can crack. Any crimp connections that may get wet can be done with marine crimp connectors, they have built in shrinks with sealant in them that is heat activated. I go one extra step and put a dab of dielectric grease on the end of the wire before inserting; should be good for life.

 

sub'd.

also... Hotty Toddy OP!

 

After some more research on these 5 meter strip LED lights like the OP has I see there are some variations.

- 3528 LED's (3.5mm x 2.8mm) and 5050 LED's (5.0mm x 5.0mm). With the 5050 you get more lumens, more brightness per LED.
- Warm White vs. Cool White. Warm white are more toward the yellowish light, Cool white more bluish. So Cool would be a more halogen-like bright light, Warm more mellow, softer.
- LED's per meter vary. If you want the most light no matter the color, you buy a 5050 LED strip with 60 LED's per meter.

This E-bay vendor gives you choices http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-3528-505...ght-DC-12V-new-/201106934886?var=500280492740 about color, density.

 

Can someone tell me what fuse I need to run this to the fuse box?

I have the LED strip, the connectors, a switch, and some 16 gauge wire. I don't know what type or specific fuse to get because I have zero electrical knowledge. I don't know how to wire this thing up but dammit I'm going to figure it out because God gave us the internet

 

Okay, engineers on here are gonna laugh me out of the forums when they see it, but I'm posting a "wiring diagram" below. For the fuse, I used 10A fuses and an Add-A-Fuse I picked up at Autozone (in the fuse section) for about $1 or $2. See the pics at the start of the thread to see where (generally) i plugged it in. I recommend connecting the add-a-fuse directly to your LED strip to test it before wiring everything in permanently. Alternatively, you could test with a small leftover strip of LEDs. Oh, and if you're going to be disconnecting your battery, go ahead and pull the fuse for your horn. (actually, you can use pull that fuse and use that socket for testing since it's always on.)

 

On my bed light circuit, I hooked up the light to the dome light circuit so I am using the same fuse as the dome light. I did change my dome light to LED so there is no current overload. I did not have to buy a fuse, add a fuse (the price of which I think is ridiculously high at the time I was looking for one) or a switch.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/li...ome-light-circuit-lots-pics-wire-routing.html

right,the answers are out there, no need to pay someone for the same information. and there are plenty other people who will help without asking for money.

 

Thanks for the info, both of you! I'm out of town this weekend, but will post pics when I finish the project. Hoping to tackle it Sunday.

Also, with my left over wire and LED lighting, I'm going to use a reed switch to make an LED strip light up on the inside of my Yeti cooler when it opens. I'll post pics if it works.

 

bumping this back up for a reference... Just ordered LED strips

 

I just added this to my truck and its awesome. There are two PITA's ive found so far though.

1. the connectors that join the LED light strips after you cut them really suck. they make contact on the LED strip on these tiny little contact points. So if they shift or loosen, the lights dont work. Then you have to unroll your bed cover (if you have one) and tap and shake the connection till it works again. I thought i read about someone soldering these, but i think that would be pretty tough to do, the connections are so small. Maybe i just suck as soldering.

2. The strips i bought didnt stick to the rails 100% so i am thinking down the road theyll start to peel off again and ill be super gluing them back on. Just not the quality i try to bring to my truck... And yes i cleaned the rails well and installed them in warm weather, if anyone is wondering.

Overall this is the best way to have lights though! Super useful, 100% hidden, and the magnet switch rocks so they turn on automatically.

OH AND ONE OTHER THING. I wired a toggle switch in just before the magnet switch so if i want to manually turn them off i can do that. I put the switch in the metal housing area of the tail light, facing forward toward the cab so you dont see it. Nice to have the option of turning the lights off if you choose....

 

1. They're made to be soldered. It's relatively simple.

2. What did you use to clean before adhering?

 

Did you use a Relay?

 

No need for a relay. just run a fused wire from what ever you plan on using as the 12v source

 

This is my diagram but in stead of a in line fuse have an add a fuse and piggy back off on a always hot fuse. I have 2 switches. 1 for manual on off and the other magnetic for the tail gate. What do you guys think!

 

Sub'd love the diagrams!

 

So I have had the bed lights in now for a couple of months now and only one thing I would do differently is get rid of the quick clamps that are used in the corners and just use a wire soldered to each LED stip. The clamps would come loose and there were not that reliable on staying connected.

 

I put mine in as one whole strip to avoid cutting and soldering and turned out great. Ran wire under the fuse box and put a switch in one of those useless cubbie holes that way I can put the lid on to protect/ hide it.

 

Did anybody ever try using the 7 way trailer hitch for +12V for their bed lights? Trying not to run the wiring all the way up front.