Another lighting question: light turns on even when ignition is off

Looking for a little guidance from you all. Finally got around to doing my first electrical mod ever! Ended up doing the hood scoop led mod following this thread here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hood-scoop-led-lightbar-bracket-by-c4fab.353700/ Was able to get everything installed, wires through the firewall ok, hooked up and everything works. The problem I am having is that I can turn the light bar on even when the ignition is off.

The harness that comes with the Rigid light does not have a relay, it is in-line fused as noted into this diagram. The Rigid harness has red/black wires from the light bar and red/black going to the battery. The ground wires were terminal spaded together. I removed the spaded ends to wire up a CH4x4 switch instead.

Following the diagram on the switch I connected both grounds to the Black wire, the positive from the light to the Green wire, and the positive from the battery to Red 1. Once I get an add-a-fuse I'll attach it to Red 2 for switch illumination. Obviously I've missed something as everything works, but all the time. I only want the light hot when the ignition is on. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

I'm not an electrical expert by any means but I believe I know your problem. You're hooked straight to the battery, and the battery is always "live". When you get your add a fuse plug it into a switched fuse port and it should take care of the issue when your ignition is off

 

You have to have the power from a key on source, not the battery.

You have 2 different wiring diagrams. When you mix and match parts, you have to 'translate' and get the colors coordinated.

 

You're right, however I thought there might have been something different with the way Rigid had it diagrammed. So, the add a fuse will take care of both the light illumination when the truck is on as well as preventing the light from being turned on otherwise?

 

That second picture is that of the switch itself?
If so then, use the switch to turn on a relay that turns on the lights. Using a relay will save wear and tear on the contacts on the switch

Feed pin 1 with a fuse tap and use a 1 amp fuse. Pick a fuse that turns on and off with the key. Pull that fuse and install it in the fuse tap.
Pin 2 goes to terminal 85 on a standard Bosch relay.
Pin 3 taps into the dash lights power and pin 4 is the ground for the light in the switch.

Now the relay:
Terminal 85 as mentioned above is connected to pin 2 of the switch
Terminal 86 is grounded.
Terminal 87 connects to the battery positive with an inline fuse close to the battery
Terminal 30 connects to the lights.

Edit for a typo

 

That second picture is of the actual switch I have, the was the diagram on the back of the package. Now I do have a Bosch relay, so based on the wiring diagram of the Rigid harness in picture 1 would I have to cut both sets of positive/negative wires and just terminate them with spade connectors for the relay?

 

My bad, I misread a bit.
To use the switch in the second pic with the rigid lights:
Wire 1 on the switch will connect to the red wire that would connect to the rigid switch.
Wire 2 connects to the blue wire that would connect to the rigid switch.
Wire 4 connects to the remaining black wire.

The original switch just lights up when you turn it on. Inside the switch, it's connected to the blue and black wires.
With this new switch, it's light is separate and this allows you to have it operate with the dash lights. From what I've read, most ppl go to the heat/fan control to tap the lighting circuit. If you go that route, bring wires 3&4 from the new switch to the heat/fan control. I don't know if the lighting circuit varies the 12 volts, or ground to accomplish the dimming.
If you just want it to turn on, then connect wire 3 to wire 2 and the light will turn on with the switch

Now for the relay:
#s 85 and 86 are the coil for the relay use an add a fuse as described previously to turn the relay on and off with the truck. Fuse to #85, #86 gets grounded.

#s 30,87,87a are a single pole, double throw switch.
#30 is the switch common
#87 is the normally open contact
#87a is the normally CLOSED contact.
Cut the red wire after the inline fuse and connect the fuse end of the wire to #87. The other end to #30.
If you reverse these 2 wires then #87a will be energized when the relay is turned off!
Use fully insulated Spade crimp connectors too. And squirt some dielectric grease into them before pushing them onto the relay if it's mounted under the hood.

Hope that makes sense.
Good luck.

 

@Larzzzz thanks for the updated info. I'll give this a try.

 

Good luck. And just to clarify the wire that you cut for the #30,87 terminals is that wire from the light kit with the inline fuse.

 

Success?

 

Not yet, I've got everything I need to do so except the time.