Another motor oil debate.

No it isn't. I'll show you the recalls to prove it.

 

Yeah my gas pedal is too long they say, I was notified about possible seatbelt bolts coming loose and checked them myself, no problem. I didn't have any of the air bag recalls some 2nd gens had. If not perfect, then pretty damn good for 1st year.

Your context was there is no new model that is perfect. Well even 2015, last year of an 11 year has recalls, so you might as well say make/model/year every made isn't perfect.

My first year 2005 isn't any worse than other 2nd generations, it seems 2016 3rd generations are starting out a lot worse than the 2005s, maybe they will work these things out.

 

You're missing the point. It's unbelievably short sighted to claim "Second generation trucks are perfect" and "third generation trucks suck." If nobody thinks frame rot is worse than a tranny being a quart low from the factory, good. ness.

 

You have inferior motor mounts compared to '07-'15. I hope the winter salt has been kind...

 

For a more correct comparison, it would be best to compare to something that uses the same or similar engine to the 2016 Tacoma. For that, I looked to the Lexus GS350, which also uses the 2GR-FKS with VVT-iW and Atkinson Cycle, just like the 2GR-FKS in the 2016 Tacoma. I'm not entirely sure where the information regarding the VVT-i system in the 2GR requiring 0W20 to function correctly, I've never seen that in any documents from Toyota that I can recall.

2016 Lexus GS350 (2GR-FKS) Owners Manual (Australia, Publication No. OM30E93E, Section 8.1, Page 531):



Often times specifications for other countries can include more specifications due to what is locally available in those markets as well. (If 0W20 is impossible to find in Jamaica, you'd recommend something that is, etc.).

Jeff

 

In my experience developing software for large industrial power plants, I would have included

Please excuse a short thread hijack. In my experience developing software to manage large industrial power plant controls (analogous to your truck's ECU) it would be natural for Toyota to include diagnostic software that would always compare drive line speed to engine speed and gear selected to detect "out of range" drive line speed which would be slippage or slow engagement. This would be for all gears and TC lock up. This mismatch would be logged and accessible to the right diagnostic tools. Not only would it pinpoint the clutch and brake packs in the transmission that were allowing this slipping but also include time, date and speeds. With the speed, and memory new ECUs have I would be surprised if they do not do this. In my experience tweaking the software in my C6 Z06 with LS2 Edit, the information logged in these ECUs is far beyond what most people realize and a lot of it is not available to ordinary line techs, only to factory people. If no out of range mismatches are detected, no codes will be set. These readings are extremely reliable as they use the same raw data vehicle stability and ABS uses. In all likelihood, they are checking for any trouble codes set in this manner.

 

^^Great posts by Jeff Lange and 2016/7544G. It would be awesome if the the raw data were accessible to the owner. The thing I always thought was a downer is that a trouble code isnt set until the occurence is replicated multiple times over a predetermined time period. I guess it keeps people from becoming paranoid and visiting the dealership every day, but if it were me I'd want to know each time the transmission slipped, not only if it happened 20 times in 5,000 revolutions of the output shaft (totally arbitrary numbers to make a point).

 

They do...
Problem is getting a tech to go through all the flow charts. Service is worried about profit. Warranty pays shit; they want a quick fix(aka: instructions from corporate).
Customer suffers shenanigans.

Perfect example is techstream being used to check low fluid level.

 

By raw data, I mean sensor input such as individual wheel speed encoders, crankshaft PS (rpm) and gear selection. This raw data is only present when vehicle is running. “Trouble codes” would be set when the raw data is run through a diagnostic algorithm (which runs constantly when vehicle is running) and “out of range” mismatches are detected. Raw data is also checked diagnostically in several ways: sensor shorted, sensor open, out of range readings of the sensor, etc. In my experience, actual sensor raw data alone is rarely of value.

 

I got the point, but first year pains was also your point, and my first year is pretty awesome. I didn't see where I said 2nd gen was perfect beyond my trouble free purchase, never said 3rd sucks, but for a 1st year mine is still pretty perfect. Frame rot I didn't get. You're bringing a lot new information to your beef about 1st year or 2nd generation issues that I wasn't addressing.

 

Apparently very kind....

 

A simple dipstick worked well for several decades for the basics.

Techs nor owners could really understand or use raw data 99% of the time. Real gauges for things like coolant temp oil pressure and volts or amps were removed from vehicles eons ago for a reason. Folks didn't understand the raw data they presented.

People can't even read a gas gauge anymore, they panic if they drive an older car w/no low fuel light.

There is a reason they are called idiot lights.

 

I haven't met a person who can't read a fuel gauge yet.

 

Of course. There was a bit of tongue in cheek there. The point was the desire for a low fuel light.

But spend a bit of time on a forum for marquees where 'older' models don't have low fuel lights (like some 90's and early 00's) and you'll find whining and requests on how to 'upgrade the gauge' to acquire a low fuel light. I'm sure they know how to read the gauge, and just don't want to.

I guess we've become so nanny-fied with lights, bells and cupholders that we're helpless. Similar to those around here craving automatic headlights.......

 

Or adding the auto lock on the tailgate. I read somewhere on here one guy said it bothers him to have to dig the key out to unlock the tailgate.

 

All this talk about oil viscosity is why I run a full synthetic.
I can run the same oil in Alaska or the Utah desert all year long.
Shell t6 full synthetic.
Great lubrication and fuel saving properties.

 

This is interesting, but Consumer Reports seems to be missing an important point. If 0-20 oil reduces friction when the engine is cold, that's a good thing quite apart from EPA mileage considerations. Most engine wear takes place when the engine is cold, so by reducing friction better than other oils when the engine is cold, the 0-20 oil would seem to be doing a better job of reducing wear.

 

Viscosity is an engineered 'characteristic' or specification.

It doesn't matter if its dino, blend or pure syn.

If the number is 'x' w 'y', its the same across the board.

 

THANKYOU for finding a way to post this chart . This is what I started this thread about . Although it still seems that no oil will be recommended above 95 degrees , it also seems to say that there should be no problem with 5w30 or even 10w30 in a climate that is always above 0 degrees F to get a little more protection when the temps are usually 85 to 100 degrees F in the summer .

 

The arrow means that it goes beyond what is shown. If it was stopping at 95°F, it would be a hard line like at the bottom of the 10W-30 range at 0°F and at the bottom of the 15W-40 range at 10°F.

In other words, 0W20, 5W20 and 5W30 is recommended for all temperatures by that chart. 10W30 is for any temperature above 0°F and 15W40 is for any temperature above 10°F. Above 95°F, 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 and 15W40 are all recommended grades for the 2GR-FKS in Australia.

Jeff