Another Newbe question - cam change

You might of seen my last post about getting a vacuum pump equipped engine when I needed a non pump engine. I have learned the best fix is to swap out the cam that drives the vacuum pump and use the plug on my non pump engine to fill the hole left by the vacuum pump.

My question is what needs to be done to swap the cam? Will I need to remove the entire front cover and the oil pan to do this? Will the head on the vacuum pump engine accept the plug from the non pump engine.

I'm having a shop do the swap for me and want to have everything needed such as gasket set and any other things necessary for this. I'd like to prepare to make the work easier on them.

Thanks for all the help on my previous post - this site is a great resource.

 

Not entirely sure these help but maybe?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2018/RCRIT-18V211-7735.pdf

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/18-trd-vacuum-pump-vs-non-vac-pump-motors.759101/

 

the thread you attached really covers this well - thank you for posting this

 

has anyone tried installing the ball while the cam was installed in the head? I imagine a brass punch with a bit of care? I don't mind swapping the cam but just wanting to know if the front cover and oil pan need to come off to do this.
If i can get the ball in while the cam is installed in the head, it would save a lot of work

 

Need to remove oil pan, then upper oil pan, valve cover, timing cover. And whatever else is in the way.
Rotate engine until all chain marks aligned with crankshaft and cams marks and cylinder #1 is at tdc.
Before removing the tensioner, loose cams front bearing caps and put a folded paper towel between the cap and the camshafts. Tie the cap down. This will prevent cams to spin.Remove
chain tensioner. Remove the cam tower.
Repeat the process on other engine.
Need to move rollers and lash adjusters with the tower if the are in a good shape.
Need to apply a sealer between the head and the cam tower.
Set the chain back and install the tensioner. Only after that, remove the paper towel between cam cap and the shaft.

 

I think it’s just a matter of installing the ball and block off plate maybe @BLtheP, @Bishop84 and @Jeff Lange will chime in I know this has been discussed by these very knowledgeable members.

 

Still need to get the cam out.

 

Why not have the mechanic supply all parts? If you supply parts and there is an issue I doubt the mechanic will warranty the work.

 

Sorry, I missed you in the tag. I do put you in the same level of knowledge as the three I tagged.

 

I guess this is the opportunity to get to the bottom of the camshaft difference between 2 engine types

 

As stated by others, it really does just come down to the ball and the block off plate, but we don’t know how much force it takes to get the ball into the back of the cam, and you don’t want to trash the cam or bearings hammering on it so it’s best to remove it to install the ball or just swap in the other cam from his old engine.

Unfortunately either way that’s an upper/lower oil pan removal, valve cover removal, timing cover removal, timing chain undo, swap the cam and put it back together timed, then back on go the timing cover, valve cover, oil pans, etc. So it will be semi invasive regardless since everything has to be taken off to get a cam out.

I too am looking for some hopeful learning from this thread because everyone has only talked about the differences, no one has ever dived into any visuals showing the differences. I know what the vacuum pump hole in the cam tower looks like but that’s the extent of anything I’ve seen.

 

If the ball can be installed very easily that would be great. But, if it becomes an invasive installation personally IMO I would just buy the correct engine for the application.

I’m with you. I hope to learn here and hopefully someone will chime in that has installed the ball and can comment on the process.