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Another.....Rear shock mount broke off my frame today... Is my frame junk? Thread....

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by yarb71, Mar 15, 2020.

  1. May 23, 2020 at 7:03 PM
    #101
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    What kit did you get? Did you purchase the shock mount only? Or did you get the cap that encases the frame as well? I have a 96 4x4 AC and although I felt like I could get away with just the shock mount 161u4r, I also purchased the 156ur which is a cap for that section of the frame. This part requires you to cut the bump stop off and relocate to the cap once its welded onto the existing frame. I'll post pics tomorrow -- the parts are fairly thick and look to be good quality. From what I have tinkered with quickly it looks to be a really good fit. I'll be sure to post pictures of the fix. It should be pretty soon.
     
  2. May 24, 2020 at 3:42 AM
    #102
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Wow I see I am working far to cheap fixing these frames.

    The reason so many places pass on these jobs in the great liquid brine belt is insurance it makes them remove fuel tanks for any hot work.

    Add in the extra labor the broken fuel lines fuel pump bracket and assorted hardware drives the price to the point it is no longer cost effective for most people.

    Give me good old salt over liquid brine any time wonder why so many bridges have weight reductions why so many are getting major rebuilds .

    People need snow and ice free roads so they can drive the normal 20 mph over the speed limit
     
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  3. May 24, 2020 at 3:54 AM
    #103
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    Yep that liquid brine mix is what really is the demise of so many vehicles. Its frustrating. That's why I purchased a 4wd. It snows and I need to get to work, kids ice hockey games, to the grocery store, etc. Then about 5-10 years ago my state started using that brine, it gets everywhere and theres no way to get it all off
     
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  4. May 24, 2020 at 10:08 AM
    #104
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i hope & pray for rain all the time before a snowstorm comes this way to middle USA, then they cannot use that pretreatment, it supposedly will just wash right off the road with a heavy rain before turn to snow but idk

    is the water hose down at the local wand wash not very effective in neutralizing it? somewhere somebody said that salt is soluble in water and good enough :notsure:

    i imagine its worse living next to a coastal area where the air is thick with a salty taste lingering, i only have high humidity issues in the summer

    dummies overdid it this past winter for a peecoat of snow, less than 1/2 inche on several occasions, roads were glazed over white after until it rained
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2020
  5. May 24, 2020 at 10:14 AM
    #105
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    If you don`t mind laying on the ground so you can see where the spray is going it does a decent job .

    Build a rack at home to get the bottom of the tires at eye height and wash at home.

    The downside is the Glacier from the water build up then dragging the pressure washer in the living room to keep it comfortable till things warm up.
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. May 24, 2020 at 10:20 AM
    #106
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    usually by the time i would be ready to wetsuit up on the nasty wash garage bay floor my bones are numb and frostbite is settling in and its time to go back to base
    they (carwash) used to make me push more frozen quarters into the box to extend the wash time, that is hard when your fingers and hands are trembling from potential frostbite

    recently they added a card reader so i can just hit the button on the 2nd pass around truck but the below freezing temps take their toll on the body with the most careful attention to track as little slop back into the cab :annoyed: :bananadead:
    no heated garage so the risk is frozen locks handles and windows
     
  7. May 24, 2020 at 10:43 AM
    #107
    Kyitty

    Kyitty Mr. Beard

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    Holy fuck. Time for a newer vehicle.
     
  8. May 24, 2020 at 10:45 AM
    #108
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    needs some love all in a mornings work
     
    1997tacomav6 and Black DOG Lila like this.
  9. May 24, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #109
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    Stock. EZ pass.Dump pass.Inspection sticker.Convict printed lic.plates.FG cap.
    Or go full comprehensive and speed test the airbags $$$$$
     
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  10. May 24, 2020 at 3:15 PM
    #110
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    Here are pics of what I bought. I have a feeling its gonna work out fine for my truck. I'd put the cap on fully, but it requires the bump stop to be cut and I didn't cut anything yet. The stuff appears to be good quality and it's just as thick as the original frame, so if you can make it work and paint it up you'll get some extra life.20200524_180628.jpg 20200524_180557.jpg 20200524_180436.jpg

    I'll be posting pics of my progress. Not sure if you got the cap or not, but it may be worth it to investigate. Hopefully these pictures help
     
  11. May 25, 2020 at 10:41 AM
    #111
    yarb71

    yarb71 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah...those 2 bits are exactly what i bought.

    How hard was it to get your bed up and over the filler spout? That would be my next battle i suppose....if i decide to move forward. Any tips there?
     
  12. May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM
    #112
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    Its pretty simple. Take off the tailgate, 6 bolts hold the bed from underneath, some clips holding the wire harness, remove the taillights, gas filler cover, I removed my bumper as well -- made it easier to get to the back bolts. Make sure to pb blast from underneath. They'll be rusty and fun to break loose if you've never removed your bed. The bed was a 2 man job -- lift from The wheel wells and get it clear of the gooseneck, also have something to set it on prior to pulling it off unless you plan on setting it on The ground. The bed isnt heavy, but it's not really a one man job without having to fuss and rig something up. Just double check everything that's attached to the bed is clear before lifting it, or you may wind up having to repair something else. It's not hard, just time consuming with rusty bed bolts. Pb blast for a couple days. I needed to apply a good amount of heat to 2 of my bolts, they wouldn't budge .
     
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  13. May 25, 2020 at 12:06 PM
    #113
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    I've had the bed off both of my first gens for some sort of rust issue. I recall removing the bumper on my 02 as well. I think its easier to get to the bolts, but maybe I just dont have the right tool. It makes it so much easier to work on and it also allows you to assess further damage and clean up/paint better.
     
  14. May 25, 2020 at 1:26 PM
    #114
    yarb71

    yarb71 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Yeah...i have already soaked all the bed bolts for weeks now.....maybe over a month. They all came loose with the impact just fine. I tightened them back down for now but boy does it creek and make alot of racket back there now. Sounds like the titanic coming apart. I may have missed the furthest rear bolts if there are 6.

    I was thinking i could crisscross some ratchet straps in the bed tiedowns nad just lift the whole box up with a cherry picker. The probem is that damn fuel filler. I havent figured out how to angle around that...and im sure it wont go high enough to clear it.
     
  15. May 25, 2020 at 4:10 PM
    #115
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    Yes you could certainly do that. Once you have it as high as it can go you can finagle the bed over the gooseneck, or if you find a way to stabilize the cherry picker on some cinder blocks you can get another 8-12" higher. I have heard of people doing the 1 man bed pull in their garage using 3 ratchet straps 2 cross cross and 1 in the middle. And rigging a pulley system to the ceiling of their garage and pulling the bed that way. I'd say the bed really isnt any more than 200 lbs. It may only be 100 lbs. Its pretty light when you remove the tailgate.
     
  16. Jul 1, 2020 at 9:27 AM
    #116
    yarb71

    yarb71 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    finally found time to get the box off. The passenger side is the worst but the drivers side has holes as well.....
    I got the safe-t cap kit for the passenger side but not the drivers.

    I dont really want to drop the tank to do the drivers side and welding that close to the tank would likely fix all of lifes problems.

    I have been smackin the rust of with a welding slag hammer....and this is how it came out after about 3 hours.

    What a mess.

    This is what toyota calls a recall........my truck went back and was "coated" so i didnt qualify for the warranty work back when they were replacing frames. Pretty sad.

    a (1) - Copy.jpg

    a (2) - Copy.jpg

    i was really hoping to fix this but its ready for the junk pile. Damn it.
     
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  17. Jul 2, 2020 at 11:55 AM
    #117
    2k2

    2k2 Flareless

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    I still haven't gotten around to doing anything yet. I will post pics once I do. I've been busy with other more important stuff. I have 2 tacos in good order, so I may put this off until September.
     
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  18. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:19 AM
    #118
    yarb71

    yarb71 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Frame is completed. Seemed to go fine.
    New caps on both sides, box holes fixed and repainted, new front and rear shocks and front springs, end links, UBJ and LBJ, outer tie rod ends, steering rack bushings, 3 new belts, oil and filter change, alignment, balance, rotation...and i fixed my wipers and drivers side door lock. Probably other stuff i cant remember...

    I am debating on getting a new rear bumper but thats probably stupid since its just cosmetic and pointless. My existing one is rotted out like the all do.

    Should be good for at least another 10k and hopefully much more.
     
  19. Sep 30, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #119
    1997tacomav6

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    I was walking through Lowell’s and found these wire wheels that are a HEX head, not a common round shaft that will fit on an drill extension that has a HEX fitting for those hard to reach
    20200930_161955.jpg
     
  20. Oct 1, 2020 at 12:11 AM
    #120
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    A piece of 3"x5"x3/16" rectangle tubing some flat stock for brackets and paint you have a new bumper
     

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