Another suspension question...

Alright guys I've searched extensively but wanted to run my plan for a suspension setup by y'all to see what you think and ask some questions.

My ride quality sucks, and is getting worse. 2000 TRD, I think everything is still stock except the lift spacers the previous owner put on. I don't have a lot of cash so am wanting to upgrade in stages as I get the money.

First I'm thinking new shocks all the way around, getting rid of the spacers in the process, I like a little lift but the 3" I have now isn't what I'm set on. I'm thinking bilstein 5100's, but have also seen people put 5125's on the rear and I cannot figure out what the advantage is, if anyone can explain that.

Then thinking about getting the OME Dakar leaf springs, as mine are pretty straight right now. How much of a lift will those add (I think I can remove a spring if it's too high right?) and can I match the front with the adjustable bilsteins? I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do the ubolt flip then too. Not super necessary for me as this is my DD and occasional rough dirt road camping vehicle (no major wheeling), so anyone feel free to talk me out of it if it's not really worth the money (haven't heard of anyone actually damaging the normal bolts).

Then the front coils, heard good things about the OME, but again not sure how the different numbers translate to lift.

Keep in mind I have 31" tires, and no aftermarket bumpers (tube bumpers are on my wish list). I do occasionally have my leer shell on the back, but every time I take it off I remember how big of a pain it is to get on and leave it off (plus I like the look better without it).

How does this sound to y'all? Anything else I should add to the list/change? Reason I'm researching this now is I'm about to have the CV axles replaced and was thinking might as well start some upgrades while I'm at it (might have him look at the coils first, there's a rattle front drivers side when I first start driving)

TLDR: Help me make sure my suspension plan is a good one

 

the Dakars will lift about 2-2.5" depending on what's in the bed. they are still rated for the same weight/load as stock just with some lift. Mine settled a bit due to me keeping the shell on the majority of the time.

5100 is the series of shocks and the 5125 is for the rear for 0-3" of lift (which if you get the Dakars, will work). you can crank the fronts up to the second notch to get ~1.75" of lift over stock. however just moving the ring up causes a rougher ride due to "pre-loading" or compressing the spring without allowing it to extended to get the suspension travel.

with 31" tires you will have larger wheel gaps and may not look good ( to each their own).

if you just want newer springs you can always get stock height replacements (General Spring in KC is a highly recommended choice).

 

I already have a 3" lift and I think the wheels like fine personally, but I'm not opposed to dropping it a bit.
So if I understand right, billsteins with a stock coil won't lift the front high enough to match the rear? But if I put a new, longer coil on it, it could? Sorry I'm still trying to wrap my head around all this suspension stuff

 

Don't bother with the U-bolt flip kit. For how much you wheel, it's a waste of money, IMO. It requires welding new shock perches to the axle, too. As I see it, the only reason to go that route is because you rock crawl with it and are always getting hung up on the stock perches, or are modifying the rear suspension with custom shock locations (i.e. mounted like /\).

The 5100 series is a great set of shocks, and I highly recommend them. I run 32's, and when my 5100's were on the middle ring, they fit just fine, maybe the occasional frame rub at full lock. Your 31's will fit at the stock height no problem (it's the stock size tire, anyway). As Frizz said, lifting it and keeping the 31's may create an "odd" look.

I've currently got my truck in pieces with some Kings and other candy going in, but I plan to set them only slightly higher than what I had the 5100s at, just to level it a bit better with the stock rear springs and longer shackles... I plan on some Dakars or maybe All-Pros later...

 

the front 5100 has 3 settings. the lowest setting is barely going to move it. the second and third "lift" the front by moving the bottom of the spring up, giving the lift. a longer coil spring is better as it's designed to lift the vehicle by a certain amount.

 

Get a taller coil spring with the 5100's. That way you're not preloading the coil at all and you can leave the 5100's on the bottom setting. They'll last longer that way. Hopefully! Just don't get the 3" Eibach 620lb coil. That's what I had w/ my 5100's and they were too stiff! I heard OME coils are lot better riding, but have no experience with those. I haven't heard anyone mention that you might need aftermarket UCA's. That's kind of a toss up depending on what you end up doing with your front suspension anyways. Good luck! @DiamBag

 

I thought the newer 5100's had 4 (mine have 3, tho), but maybe that's just for the 2nd/3rd gens?

Anyhoo...

OP: If you use a longer coil, like the OME 881's, you put the clip on the "stock" height of the 5100's (don't use both a longer spring and set the slips of the 5100's at a "lifted" position). You can end up going higher than 3" and that's very bad for your CVs.

What kind of lift is in the back? If you get new springs, whatever lift that is will go away anyway and you'll be set with the new springs providing your lift instead of blocks or an AAL...

 

Think the AP springs are better than the Dakar?

 

I believe it's a block lift in the back, I'd need to double check. I know it is in the front and they look, ride, and when it's cold- sound like shit. Even with my small road tires I think it looks pretty mean, but the lift isn't worth having those spacers in. Also- 881's vs 883's? Are the 3's just longer?

 

883 are same height as 881, they are rated for heavier weight though. they will ride rough as hell unless you have a bumper and winch.

882 are taller but same rating as 881.

 

I'm not super familiar with the OME coils, but the various part #'s are for various lifts and/or weights (like if you have a winch bumper type stuff). If you order those, go with a reputable dealer like WheelerOffroad or some of the other vendors on TW, call em up and ask them what you should get, they'll set you up with the right parts. Someone else will probably chime in who's more familiar with OME's, too...

When I got m 5100's, I just ran the stock coils for like 6+ years until I finally broke down and got Kings.

But I think you'd do well to get rid of the spacer crap, and stick with 5100's all around (or 5125's in back), and Dakars in the back. Depending on how worn out you think your coils are, you could replace those too, or save a little cash and keep your originals.

 

so are these 5125's it still says 5100, that's where I'm confused

 

Those are the 5100's.

These are the 5125's... They are "different" shocks, but the differences are minor for the most part.

From what I've read, the 5100's are application specific (length and valved for your specific vehicle), while the 5125's are basically "custom length" 5100's but with non application specific valving.

So as far as I'm aware, if you're running 0-3" of lift, both will work.

 

Anyone have a preference over either one?

 

From what I understand the two are essentially the same, so... flip a coin?

I would *guess* that since the 5100's are valved specific for the vehicle, those might be a tad better, but the only way to know for sure is to try and flex out your truck and take some measurements and see what works best.

Here are a few threads to confuse you even more...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5100-vs-5125-bilsteins.94762/

 

Same truck as OP, with slightly different problems: after switching back from 265/75 16 DT's to mild tread 31's for the warm/dry months, I find that the front really wants to roll over on corner entry. This is on pavement. I also have a more pronounced whiplash effect from the drivetrain when starting or when shifting to 2nd gear - probably from the smaller, lighter wheels and tires.
If their claims are to be believed, Roadmaster Active suspension units should cure both problems. In this interpretation, the RM acts like a small rear antisway bar to keep the truck from understeering so much; at the same time it takes some of the fore-and-aft flex out of the leaf springs to help avoid the whiplash effect.
Anyone on here have experience with these claimed benefits of the Roadmasters?
Truck has 5100's, which give a nice, controlled ride both on and off road. Fronts are set at 2.5" to clear the DT's, and the rears have an extra leaf added. Truck rides just about dead level when the Leer bed cap is on.
Not interested in swapping for stiffer coils, as that would likely stiffen the ride too much.
So, OP, I definitely recommend the 5100/AAL approach - with no spacers and stock springs still in use. Hoping to get some feedback on the Roadmasters, too.
4toys

 

Pretty complex system here. You should really just go with the tried and true solutions until you're ready to spend several to hundreds of hours actually learning the mechanics.

I recommend the OME full kit, front and rear. ~2" of lift and very usable. Don't need to think about anything, just bolt it on. It will be night and fucking day from a busted old stock suspension with spacers.

 

You were right. I'm still confused- I gather that the 5100's are for stock height, but can accommodate a 2" lift (someone please explain how, I didn't think the rears were adjustable..), the 5125's are for 2-3", and some people claim they are stiffer, and better for a loaded bed, nothing really to confirm that as others say they are very smooth. the 5150's have a shotglass of oil on the side, you'd only ever notice a performance increase if you were doing high speed dirt roads for hours

Anyone feel free to correct me. As it stands I'm still torn between 5100 and 5125's in the rear

I think I'm going to just get full leaf replacements, mine have pretty much flattened so I don't think an AAL would do me much good

 

Any negatives to a system like that? I may not have a ton of money to throw at this right away, but I'd rather get it right the first time than end up spending more money down the road if I decide I'm not satisfied

 

It comes with everything you're thinking about getting. It'll add up to around the same if you try to part it out by piece. I can't think of any negatives. It's probably the most widely regarded full kit available.

5100 is the general model number for the shocks. 5125 are the same shock but come in longer lengths. You need to consult the manufactures catalogue or similar to find the part number of the 5125 with the proper length. All pro uses a 9.25" travel 5125 with their 3" lift spring kit. If you give wheelers a shout the can talk you through all of this. Good luck!