Another won't start thread.

Good morning,
So I have a 3.4, it had 2 cracked heads, which I have replaced with a set of good ones.
Replaced timing belt and water pump , the whole 9 yards , while I had it apart.

Before I took it apart, I did have it running, although not the best, with water in the oil etc, it did run.

Now I have it all back together, I have spark , nice string spark.
I have fuel, too much fuel , pull the plugs, and they are wet , all of them .

I took the front back apparent, and the cam covers, to recheck my work.
All alignment marks are where they should be , cams, intake and exhaust , check .,
Timing belt, both cams are straight up, crank Mark on oil pump is correct with #1 at top dead center.

So it should start, except it is flooding .
Not really sure why , but I do need this thing to run.

Any of you give me something relevant to this issue.

Engine cranks over, and will try to fire , one time.
Then it is flooded and will not try again , until I pull all the plugs , dry them and reinstall.

Thanks
Ashley

 

Is it exactly like this? you could be off 180 degrees

http://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-5vz-fe-timing-belt-marks-3-4l.338/

 

Yes sir, exactly like that.

 

Have you checked your compression ?

 

160 on all 6, I just replaced the heads, with toyota gaskets etc.

I have a very nice spark, and can check spark timing with an old school timing light.
That checks out and verifies that indeed I did get my belt on properly.

I have way to much fuel.
Enough that it soaks all 6 plugs, and is diluting the oil.
I am going to drain the oil, fresh fill.
I need to figure out what is causing the excess fuel supply.

As I read the Haynes, I know they are not the most informative, but I see the components of the fuel system clear enough to make educated diagnosis.

The truck ran before I took it apart to replace the heads, so I can't help but think , I am missing a connection, or something went south , while it was apart.

The fuel pressure regulator, usually when they go bad , there will be fuel in the vac. Line.
No fuel in the line.

My truck is a 95.5 and does have 2 vsv's one on the front of the engine attached to the upper intake , and I am pretty certain the vac. Lines are properly attached.
The other on the firewall I never messed with any connections.
Sorry for the book size post.
Thanks for the help .
Ashley

 

No experience here with the V6, but do you have COP or a distributer or what?
It could be the coil connections are crossed up, causing the spark 180 out of time?

 

3.4 has a coil on plug on 3cylinders, with wires to the other side cylinders.
I have checked and recheck ked my plug wires, and coils are all working properly.

 

hhmmmmm ....

Running out of ideas. You appear to be a more experienced mechanic than I am, most of my past experience is on a 22R motor.
I'll throw out some wild-ass-guesses:

- check all the ground connections, maybe you left one out putting it all back together.
- ECM may have gotten fried during the process. Do you have access to an identical one that can be swapped in?

 

I have swapped it out with another good one from a running truck.
So I am wondering what gives the injectors signal, the crank position or cam position sensor.
Some efi systems have only one sensor , that gives both spark and fuel others get signal from one or the other.
It is a magnetic signal, called a hall effect.

I have read, the fuel pump only has signal during cranking and run .
If that is the case , it seams that what ever is giving the Injectors signal to open, that signal is keeping them open.

Do any of you have a link to toyota wiring schematics that show the cam and crank position sensors, and fuel , spark ?
That will be of great help.

 

Yes, the fuel pump only runs while cranking or running. Lots of perfectly good pumps have likely been replaced by guys who are new to Toyotas, and mis-interpreted not hearing the pump with the key in the IGN position.

Have you checked the fuel pressure yet? I don't think its straight-forward. There might not be a 'schrader-like' connection to hook up a gauge. I think the dealers use special connectors and tools. You might have very low pressure, due to faulty pump or regulator.

 

I don't have the special connectors to attach my fuel pressure gauge to the toyota fuel rail.
I was able to down load the fsm to my phone, and am hoping I will find wiring schematics to clarify how the fuel I injectors get signal.
I appreciate your help sir.

 

Have you checked all the connections to the crackshaft sensor and or cam shaft sensors?

 

Yes I have , and because I have spark, and an abundance of fuel, I believe they are sending signal to the ecu, although it may be the wrong values.
I just got back to the shop, and will do the ohm test to ensure they are good.
Thank you .
Ashley

 

I ha e had another tacoma i bave been working on, so i just got back to update all tbat tryed to help me with my own .

I downloaded the fsm , and was reading it, and the haynes , comparing the cam installation instructions.
So i took the cam covers off, and i had aligned the passenger side correctly , 2 dots together.
The driver side i screwed up, and had the intake with 1 dot and the exhaust with 2 aligned.
Put them with the single dots together, and everytbing is fine again.
Thanks for everyones help.

 

good job finding out the problem!

 

I feel it is important to find if a problem is resolved, when one is trying to find , repair a problem.
So now it is up and running , i have a code 325 , knock sensor code, and a high idle with no code.
I have ordered a new knock sensor harnes and 2 knock sensors.

Taking everything apart again.
This suucks, but i have become pretty efficient at disassembly and reassembly of this engine.