anothernord's JDM 1KZ-TE diesel swap (2001 Tacoma 3.4)

It was around $2500 with shipping. I've pretty well documented all my wiring, and I may or may not do a full writeup, but I'll probably post up the spreadsheets I do have.

Thank you! The plan right now is to see if the VGT Holset from my 3.4 build will fit in the engine bay and use that if so, otherwise the stock turbo with some add-ons will be fine to start with.

Most of the specs are on Wikipedia if you'd like to check those out. There's not any programming you can really do besides adjust resistance values of the correction resistors. I'm pretty sure all the "chips" for this motor that can be found globally do the same thing (but cost >$1000 read: hard pass)

Nope, this is an OBD-1 ECU. It won't pass emissions nor be technically legal in my county, so I'll be registering with family elsewhere.

The motor will be for sale along with the turbo plumbing, but probably not the Holset or controller.

Thanks for the encouraging comments, everyone. I guess I can't go back now.

The garage is getting a bit crowded. (I share it with a roommate)


The block is back from the machine shop, and everything went well.


I also finished roughing-in the harness. I ended up hacking up the 3.4 harness to use the wiring for the ADD actuator, auto trans, and center diff actuator motor. It also had to be extended 30". Next step is to test fit it in the truck before wrapping it all up.


The bad news. After the head was cleaned up, I noticed cracks in the precombustion chambers... I'm looking into options right now before going further.

 

That sucks. I've always been skeptical of the JDM stuff I see on eBay, probably what's held me back from buying one and giving it a try.

 

I was looking at what I found wiki, but figured you would know something more.

I love Toyota based swaps. Keep the pics come!

 

Here's a good link as well:
http://australiancar.reviews/1KZ-TE-engine.php

 

Yea that's the good stuff...

 

Turbo wasn't enough Eh. Cool. Subbed

 

subd

 

Subd

 

Is the crack in a machinable place? might be able to have a weld shop grind out and fill in the crack, then have machine shop machine head back into spec.

 

Sub'd. This is my dream.

 

Sub'd for this thing. I recently dropped in a JDM 5VZ in my 4Runner and wish I went for this.

 

That would be the way to go if it's in a "good" spot.

 

Per the advice of people on the Land Cruiser diesel forums, I went ahead and bought a new set of pre-combustion chambers (precups as they call them). It was another $150 shipped from Austrailia,

The machine shop had to take out .006" from the head and existing precups, and the service manual indicates -.0012 to +.0008" for the allowable protrusion of the precup. Even if all the precups came with the thickest .0039" shim underneath, removing the shim and installing the precup would still leave .0019" protrusion, which is .0011" over the spec. Sooo, I think it'll have to go back to the machine shop. We'll see after installing them later tonight.

In other news, I figured out that the KZN185 1KZ ECU fits right where the 5VZ ecu does, and even re-uses 1 of the brackets. I also mocked up the wiring harness in the engine back for bracket and wire loom placement.

There should be some juicier updates this weekend with some Thanksgiving free time.

 

The head was dropped off at the shop after my homemade puller simply sheared the precups. :/ They'll have to be turned down .006" anyway.


**Sorry about the dark pictures*** My auto-metering is broken on my camera so I shoot in manual mode. The shots look much brighter on the camera screen, lol.

Fuel tank stuff - done
Wiring - 95% done
Engine - just need to put on the head and manifolds
Transmission - 1KZ box in (crossmember needs relocating)
Engine bay - Need to tow the whole truck to a car wash to blast out the engine bay. I can't stand it being nasty. Then everything can be final-installed.

First, welcome to "Cooking with Anothernord". Today, we'll be making piston/rod assemblies.

Preheat 8 cups of water to 176F, insert 1 piston. Heat until golden brown.


Baste the wrist pin with 1 tbsp assembly oil and install with the connecting rod. Repeat for each pistion/rod. Install the piston rings as directed on the box. Install in block and enjoy


King bearings (sourced from Latvia)


Crank installed along with balance shafts (small gears)


Gear case:


Gears - all cleaned and ready to go. Notice the idler gear with the silver bolt in there. Anyone who has worked on a 5VZ knows about the spring-loaded double gears. This one is basically the same except way bigger and way harder to turn.


And installed, double and triple checking that all the marks are aligned.


And the gear housing cover before install:


Oil cooler housing:


And installed along with the injection pump:


I ended up buying 2 gasket sets. One from a dude on eBay here in the states, and another with my order from Roughtrax in the UK. It was super cheap, actually. Extra gaskets are always good to have.


Oil pickup:


I also threw on the water pump, oil pan, alternator, end everything else besides the head and rear main, which will go on later...

Next, I moved onto the fuel system.

First up, draining the tank:

I just hotwired the fuel pump from the relay and pumped the gas out.


Tank out:


Fuel pump sender before:


Fuel pump sender after: The injection pump is the fuel pump, so it's just removed and replaced with a hose (I cut a 45° on the end to prevent it from sucking to the bottom of the tank.


I also pulled the filler neck and got that ready for use with the diesel pump nozzles, which are larger than your usual gas nozzle. I used a die grinder to get rid of the 2 spot welds holding the restrictor in the opening, and pulled it out. I think I forgot to get pictures of that step.


I also pulled the old auto out. I'll be using the 1KZ auto since it has way lower miles, probably has the correct torque converter, and possibly ratio or spring differences internally.

It's way easier to pull an auto if you remove the bell-housing, as a side note:


Here's the 1KZ and 5VZ bell housing side by side. The 1KZ housing is about 1.5" longer than the 5VZ's. I think this may be the reason for needing to move the transmission crossmember.


I will probably be dropping in the engine and firing it up next weekend. Stay tuned!

 

You're a maniac! Keep it up

 

Love seeing different Toyota motors being dropped in these trucks! Sub'd

 

Wait, this is a Toyota motor?

 

Yeah, I mentioned in the first post that it's from a Hilux Surf. AKA 3rd gen runner.

 

I'll be damned. I never knew Toyota made diesel engines.
I couldn't imagine doing this in a million years, most ambitious thing I've done on my truck is probably change the shocks. What kind of prior automotive experience did you have before this?