anothernord's JDM 1KZ-TE diesel swap (2001 Tacoma 3.4)

North America is basically the only place Toyota doesn't sell diesel engines.

 

wasnt the tundra supposed to get a diesel option in the next year or two?

 

That's been a rumor for a long time. With the domestic market putting smaller diesel engines in their trucks, I would think Toyota is exploring the options. However, I wouldn't hold my breath..

 

This Is awesome! Subbed!

 

Talk about moving quickly. Didn't even take two weeks at the machine shop.

Those rods are super beefy too!( For obvious reasons. )

Are there any aftermarket components such as head studs or head gasket going in, or is the market too small for such things?

 

Lovin it! Sub'd
Hey what size is your intercooler piping on the 5vz?

 

sub dubba dubbed

 

I've done several engine swaps in my Subaru and one turbo build on my 5VZ. This will be the first motor that I've built from a bare block though.

Nobody I could find makes head studs for this motor, but I did get a new set of head bolts just to be safe. There really isn't much aftermarket at all besides the pistons and bearings. The pistons are from a Japanese company, "KA". The bearings are from King. Other than that, it's all pretty stock! A couple companies sell chips but they're insanley expensive and I'm pretty sure they just change the resistance values of the correction resistors for the injection pump. I can do the same thing with a couple $2 potentiometers.

Thanks! The piping is 2.5" (probably larger than neccesary but I wanted to match the intercooler I have)

I towed the truck to the nearest car wash and got the engine bay (specifically the front diff) spotless last night. Then I threw on the head with some new AMC head bolts and the head gasket. I opted to use the Eristic head gasket since it's thicker than the OEM (there are 5 standard thickness of 1KZ head gaskets) and I would rather lower compression a tad for more boost.

 

2.5inch is what I'm running too...and I like your IC setup much better than my own...Selling?

EDIT:is that an aluminum head? Is that stock like that?

 

This is quite the "Epic" rebuild.

 

Awesome thread! Subbed!

One question... is this going to be more of a street truck or off-road vehicle? Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

How do you plan to get around emissions inspection? Sorry if I missed that question already..

 

Post #21

 

I'll be keeping my IC setup and running it with the diesel, I do have the rest of the IC piping from my 5VZ turbo build though.

Yep, stock aluminum head.

I sorta wish it weren't quite as epic from the financial standpoint.

Here in CO, we don't do street trucks...
(Ophir Pass a couple summers ago) :

 

Timing belt backplate (make sure to RTV the bolts so they can't shake loose and fall into the belt)


Genuine Toyota parts:


Installed:
*insert picture that I accidentally deleted*

Next up was injectors, with new washers from Roughtrax:


Notice the tiny bleed hole that feeds into the fuel return pipe eventually:


I also drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole in the exhaust manifold for EGT measurement later on:


Exhaust manifold and turbo all mounted with new gaskets throughout


The engine is 95% assembled: All that's left is the rear main seal and flywheel, which have to wait until there isn't an engine stand attached.

 

Might as well do a turbo upgrade now, while you have it on the stand.

 

I did hold my VGT holset up to the side of the engine, it's waaaay to big to fit without a custom exhaust manifold. Maybe in the future...

 

Just wondering, how was the engine shipped to you? Can't imagine importing an engine from Japan is cheap. Or very light. You can't exactly use a cardboard box, lol.

 

Looks like a pretty in depth build...definitely sub'd for the outcome!

Just a little bit of info from a former Duramax owner/enthusiast: the WIF sensor on those ACDELCO filters are complete junk. A lot of the time they won't even trip the sensor. A lot of guys (myself included) bought the Caterpillar fuel filter adapter and swapped out for the Caterpillar fuel filter (about $100 cheaper when you need to change them) and installed a water separator in the fuel lines along the rail along with a lift pump. It doesn't look like you're going to build for MOAR POWA, but they make smaller lift pumps that you could install on the rail. Just a little bit of good info from one enthusiast to another. Here is the link in case you were curious about the setup. http://nicktane.com/osc/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=51

Oh, and those plastic bleeder screws on top of the Dmax housing are JUNK! I stripped mine out the first time I bled the system. Went to the same website and bought an aluminum replacement for it and never had the problem again.

 

I second that about Cat filters. I've done it for other people and that's the route I went with mine too. W/S on the frame rail, and a 2 micron filter in the engine bay.