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anti cease compound (spark plugs)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by vapovick, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. Sep 1, 2010 at 6:27 AM
    #1
    vapovick

    vapovick [OP] Active Member

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    Ok, so I'm on my 4th round of changing plugs and wires. I just changed the plugs about 3 months ago. I have NEVER used anti cease compound on the plugs, and friend advised that I should. So my question is does everyone use it? Any issues with not using it? Should I pull them out and put some on?


    Thanks.

    ./worried :(
     
  2. Sep 1, 2010 at 6:36 AM
    #2
    senna

    senna Well-Known Member

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    It is a good idea to use anti seize on aluminum heads. Just at dab will do it, and be careful, anti seize reduces drag on the threads. Do not over torque when using A.S.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2010 at 6:37 AM
    #3
    Danosabre

    Danosabre Well-Known Member

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    I use antiseaze on everything that I want to be able to take a part again, That stuff rules!! :headbang:
     
  4. Sep 1, 2010 at 7:14 AM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    This ^^^
     
  5. Sep 1, 2010 at 7:17 AM
    #5
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    I recommend the copper based anti seize over the aluminum.

    [​IMG]

    They also make this in a stick form, like big chapstick
     
  6. Sep 1, 2010 at 7:19 AM
    #6
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Ben, Why the copper?
     
  7. Sep 1, 2010 at 7:44 AM
    #7
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/610AuhCI8XS.pdf

    Better conductivity. Plus, whats the point in using aluminum to pretect steel from aluminum.

    I know they are both "filled" with various oils and greases, but I prefer to use the copper over the aluminum in this application.
     
  8. Sep 1, 2010 at 8:59 AM
    #8
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    Huh, that's interesting. The copper spec specifically mentions the application to plugs in aluminum heads, whereas the aluminum spec sheet does not have this additional detail (just says spark plugs).

    Also, the spec sheet for copper says it is for up to 1800F, and the aluminum type is rated 200 degrees lower (1600F). Not that I have a clue what the typical max temperature range is in my V6 heads.

    BUT, note that for the low-end temp, the aluminum is rated down to -51F, but the copper only to -30F, so maybe our friends in Minnesota and Canada should take note for when they are changing their plugs outside in a blizzard.

    All that said, I have always used the aluminum and never had a problem...but maybe when I run out, I will swich to the copper, just to be, uh, like, all anal like Ben. (Seriously, I appreciate your attention to detail!)
     
  9. Sep 1, 2010 at 9:08 AM
    #9
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    :rofl:

    Don't get me wrong, they both work. I just find that one is better suited for the application than the other. Plus the little chapstick thingy I have for the copper anti seize is the cat's ass.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Sep 1, 2010 at 10:09 AM
    #10
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    I want one. That stick looks like it would be excellent for avoiding accidentally getting goobers too far down the threads near the electrode, or anywhere else you don't want it. I am on a air racing team and our plane has a 3350 CI radial with 18 cylinders, 2 plugs per cylinder. I have put on a lot of C5A from a tube using my pinky finger verrrry carefully...handling big racks of plugs and climbing up and down ladders to install them provides a lot of opportunity to f* things up.
     
  11. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:25 AM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Conductivity doesnt bother me, as the the "ground" of the plug is the base of the plug.
     
  12. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:35 AM
    #12
    chmura

    chmura Well-Known Member

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    I have never used anti seize compound also. Never had any problems removing them.
     
  13. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:37 AM
    #13
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Good to hear! Let us know how much time you spend on your heads when you come accross a seized plug ;)
     
  14. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:43 AM
    #14
    twfsa

    twfsa Well-Known Member

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    I like other posters apply anti seize on the plug threads and other items, that I intend to repair in the future, also apply die electric grease to the spark plug boots to.
     
  15. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:50 AM
    #15
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    I put anti-seize on EVERYTHING that'll potentially rust, or seize up over time. Including bolts & shafts (at work too).

    Prevents moisture from getting into the threads, prevents rust from forming which prevents threads from rusting together, lubricates the metals, makes it easier to take things apart the next time.
     
  16. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:56 AM
    #16
    98tacoma27

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    .....and the threads
     
  17. Sep 1, 2010 at 5:25 PM
    #17
    Manlaan

    Manlaan Well-Known Member

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    What about with places that do rust and may need to be removed, but must also maintain a proper torque setting. For instance, the tie rod end hold down nut for adjusting alignment.

    Only reason I bring this up is because my old tie rods were so rusted that it took Firestone working on it for over an hour before they got the bolt loose enough to make the adjustment (had been soaking it daily with pb blaster for a week). The dealer gave up after about 30 min on the initial attempt. At that point I decided they were past due for changing out and put on new inner and outer tie rods, but I also dont want it to happen again.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2010 at 6:11 PM
    #18
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Not when I glob anti sieze on them.
     
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