Antidive/Anti Squat Suspension Geometry

When you guys are building an unequal A-Arm Suspension (front), what numbers are you shooting for and why?

I was told to stay as close to zero anti-squat/dive while keeping the number a positive one. I do not know the reasoning behind this though.

Pointed towards a long travel set up. Mostly slow speed rocks with some high speed jumps and whoops.

From my understanding, anti dive resists the suspensions ability to let the nose dive. At 100% anti dive the front end should stay level during braking and not move up or down. A high anti dive such as 150% will cause the front end to lift during braking and a low value such as 50% would cause the nose to dive under braking. (Not actual values, just used to represent high/low/median). Is this true? What actual values are guys running on long travel prerunner? Why? Etc.

 

Anti-Dive is build into the chassis pick up points and knuckle. Most LT kits are using all the factory points and not changing that geometry.

Your comments about lift (over 100% AD) and dive (under 100% AD) are correct.

Based on my experience building and tuning I would shoot for 90-100% anti dive.

 

In reference to kingpin (steering axis) inclination, what is a good median? I’ve been told 8-10 degrees of of KPI (king pin inclination) works well while maintaining a minimal but still positive scrub radius.


What is usually recommended for a set up like I want to achieve? We’ve already discussed anti-dive and another member recommended ~90% and how it will affect handling. Now with scrub radius from my understanding a positive scrub radius as recommended with a double wishbone will cause toe out under baking. What KPI angles and scrub radii is recommended?