Any audiophiles here? Need your advise

Hi you all, I'm installing a 13TW5 in the back of my double cab 2006 tacoma, I like deep clean bass and don't know if this single sub will do the work, I have a pair of 12W7 on Montecarlo, I've also owned a pair of 12W6v2 on my previous car, so you can see how much I like listening to deep notes, as I don't want to loose all my space behind my back seats (I just want to have some space for tools and stuff) then adding a second 13TW5 is not an option, so what do you think of adding some front stage bass with let's say a pair of 8" subs on kick panels, I would definitely prefer this subs to be JL as well since I've had nothing but good quality every time I bought one of those and SQ is a priority here, oh and speakers will be sets front and back I'm installing Boston pro60se on all 4 doors, I've never heard those, I know they are top of the line for Boston Acoustics so I know they will sound crisp and clear but do they reproduce good bass? amps are 450/4 and 500/1 pluged to an Eclipse AVN6620 head unit.
Thank you all for your time and I'll appreciate any comment you have for me

 

The transfer function "should" be better on the Tacoma vice the combined interior/trunk space on a Monte Carlo. That will help with bass. Enough, don't know, never measured either of them although I keep telling myself I'm going to measure the Tacoma so I can make myself something custom.

Good luck finding space for 8" subs up front.

No idea on the BA speakers.

From personal experience I can say the Pioneer Stage 4 PRS line puts out impressive bass from a 6-3/4" set (in a Toyota MR2); and if you're willing to go active, I really like the Seas line (suggest CA18-RNX for best price/performance ratio) coupled with a good tweeter (what I currently run in my Tacoma). But that's just my opinion, and you have no idea how I like things to sound, so....

You might PM or otherwise engage forum member ItalynStylion, he put in a good bit of effort trying to get a set of 8" woofers in the doors to work and therefore has first hand experience with a couple of different speakers in the Tacoma. Hopefully others will be along soon that have tried different lines and can make a real comparison.

Edit: If you are willing to go active, then an excellent place (IMO) to look for expert opinion would be the reviews for speakers here: http://www.zaphaudio.com/

 

I don't think 8" SUBS are a good idea for the front doors. I've tried it and you'll need some reinforcements. I think 8's in the front door are great but as long as they're not running down below say 50hz.

The TW5 is a good woofer and the 13 displaces a decent amount more air than the 12 so make sure you get the 13. (pretty sure they made a 12 at one time). The sub doesn't do well ported (says JL) so stick to sealed. I think it's probably going to be enough bass if I'm honest. It wont be two 12W7's loud but in a small cab with the sub IN the same airspace as your head I think it should be pretty good.

 

Excuse my poor knowledge but I've never used or heared (I believe) an active crossover system, what are the main differences? I've seen those speakers you tell and those are very low cost (Seas) on the other hand the Pioneer are 1 grand, with that money I could buy 3 speaker sets from BA, and personally I prefeer BA over Pioneer, in my opinion BA is the best for the $$$ you can get, even though I've not heard this particullar Pioneer set.
I'll send ItalynStylion a PM to see what he got from his previous experience, this front stage subs it's a distant future proyect, I've just ordered the amps and speakers sets and will see how it sounds and will part from there, thank you for your posts
Also I'm thinking of buying the IPC-106 for my Eclipse head unit, have anyone used it? how easy it's to manage your music through the stereo? and how clear the sound is?

 

I read title thread too fast and thought it said any pediphiles

 

Yes I have the 13.5" sub, actually I think the speaker mounts on the tacoma have a good acoustic, since the stock speakers do reproduce some low notes and those speakers aren't high quality at all, so maybe if I sound deaden them very well, the boston set can do it for me, what do you think?

 

lol

 

what is your budget? you keeping stock HU? adding amps? if you plan on 8's are you planning on 3 way components?
I am perfectly happy with my 13TW5, I am running Hertz ML 1600 and ML 280 http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm with an Audison 5.1K and a Bit One make sure the cab has good sound deadner. I still kept the underseat storage.

 

The Seas line is VERY nice. Those are actually regarded as some of the more expensive drivers for a DIY active system. The Pioneer setup is so expensive because it includes crossovers and it's plug and play. An active system will cost you more time but the results are rewarding. It's a tough road to go down so only do it if you've done your homework and think you can tune it.

 

head unit - Eclipse AVN6620
amps - JL 500.1 (sub) JL 450.4 (speakers)
speakers - Boston Acoustics pro60se (front & rear)
sub - JL 13TW5
capacitor - Stinger 15 farads hybrid
epicenter - audiocontrol
sound deadening - dynamat xtreme
wiring/RCA - stinger expert series w/stinger lugs & dist. blocks etc
batteries - double battery arrangement (phoenix gold), optima yellow top for audio
speaker installation brackets and hrw - ********* installation kit

I don't know if I missed something but thats basically my current setup, im waiting for most of the parts to arrive, can't wait to hear it

So anybody have used the ipc-106 with this HU? I wan't to know if it's worth the $100+ it costs, or if I should just connect the iphone to the auxiliary via RCA instead, thank you

 

Got it, so active means custom built and passive it's a kit someone has already designed to be plug and play, thank you for the info man , I guess I'll stick to passive this time since I've already ordered my speakers and I've read only good reviews from them, let's see if all that is true

 

Any reason for the cap? Or did u just want one more thing for your system to charge

 

pLon,

Passive means electrical components (capacitors, resistors, inductors) that sit "passively" in the sound stream and split the sound to the various speakers. They can be custom, but most frequently are bundled with the speakers since passive crossovers also usually need help with notch filters or a zobel network, etc. Normally they are set for only 1 frequency (say 3.2kHz) and is hardwired to support only 1 load (say 4-Ohm speakers, but not 2 or 8).

Active means a box that has power and ground going to it, usually allows multiple different crossover frequencies, allows different loads, and doesn't require zobel networks to make up for phase issues, etc. While it does good things, it also adds system complexity, cost, and (as mentioned above) requires more expertise to set up.

I have to agree with 06SR5canada, a capacitor in-line with the power wires is there to (IMO):
1) make up for a poor ESR battery or inadequate alternator, or
2) make $$$ for the shop that sold it, or
3) make up for inadequate power amplifier design, or
4) impress the easily impressed.

 

Since this capacitor is hybrid, it means "they are also considered half battery they will hold a lot of power for your system, and dish it out as fast as it's needed", even tough I will be running dual batteries, a capacitor is a must for subwoofers since they demand a lot of current and they need it instantaneously, a battery can't provide energy this fast, at a begining I was going with the 10 farads capacitor but the 15 farads is just like $40 more so I decided to get this one instead, as for the second battery im still thinking which one is the best, one of my favorites brand is SVR, Optima has very high quality as well and kinetic (never owned one of these). So at this point I'm researching which one is better and why, or better said which one will work best for me

 

Thanks for the explanation Lee, I think I was a little confused but now I got it, then I think the passive and active terms would be because one is energized (active) and the other isn't (passive) since this last one already receives the amplified signal from the amps, thanks again I've always had this doubt about this meanings
As for the capacitor goes, I think the capacitor is no replacement for the alternator or the battery, they have to work as a team, the alternator is needed since it generates electricity from a mechanical process, the battery just store the energy generated by the alternator but neither of them can supply the energy at the speed the capacitor is intended to do, as my point of view the capacitor is a regulator of current, if the subwoofer amp demands a huge load of power in an instant that the battery isn't capable of generating then the capacitor will provide it. It doesn't matter if the battery is an AGM type, it can't be as fast as a capacitor.

 

yeah definitely doesn't do well in a ported box, i had a customer insist on a ported box for 2 of the tw5 in his powerstroke. i though ah might work...... uhm hell no, i had anew box built before he even came to get the truck it sounded so bad.

 

Yes definitely it's gonna be a sealed enclosure, but I've heard these subs sound better if they are facing down, is this true? Because I was thinking to build a front facing woofer box behind the backseat at the driver's side and on the bottom storage part the 2 amps and the capacitor hidden, but now that I've read this I don't know if I should move the sub below the seat and keep the amps/cap on the backrest (they would probably keep cooler in this position anyway), any suggestions?

 

There is no chance your going to fit this sub below your seat, they sound just fine facing forward. Down firing the subs in some applications does sound good but that is not the only way these sound good. I have done many of them forward facing behind the back seat, several in tacomas as well as other vehicles they sound great!

 

Tnx for the info Patrick, so they will be installed behind the backseat facing forward on the drivers side to keep the passenger side as a storage compartment , does anybody have blueprints for this box? I wan't it to be as stealt as possible, I mean to look factory like

 

if our up for quite a lot of work you can build the box then use a combination of bondo and fiberglass to shape and contour all of the sides and edges to the panels that are back there. after some sanding you can either wrap it with vynil to match the color of the rear panels or with more sanding (like paintable body panel smooth) you can spray on texture, i usually have the best results using several different spray textures, then primer and paint it with a black interior paint to match the back panels, it will look like a factory rear panel but it is a lot of work. the best way to match the color and finish of the interior panels is to get the paint from an upholstery supply shop the brand SEM is very high quality and the shop can get an exact match using the factory interior piece.