Any options other than replacing engine for $11k?

800-331-4331 I believe is the number.

It seems that if you’re a long time customer … with a long service history it goes a long way.

 

Haha, not sure the motor pictured is gonna do it.

I have considered trying to find a junk yard, but I think that's more risk than I want to take on. I'd rather something rebuilt with at least some kind of peace of mind that I'm not going to be back in the same boat immediately.

 

Yeah, if I could go have a conversation with 17 year old me some choices might've been made differently. I don't regret where I'm at though. Happy for you though!

 

I'm as brainwashed as anyone. Later, I still went and wasted some money to get a degree

 

How far away are you from the poor dude who got his shit wrecked by the VW ? Perhaps you can pirate his engine before they total it.

 

Wow that is low mileage - no warranty when you bought it?

 

I would have talked my 17 year-old self into a vasectomy .. LOL
Would have quit smoking.
Would have got my degree in computer programming then ( instead of in my 20's ).
Or...
I would have worked 2 jobs and invested every penny I had into Microsoft and Intel, sold those out in the 90's, bought up some
houses in California, waited a few years to sell those off, then in 2007-2009 bought every house I could in metro-phoenix and
dumped those in 2021... I would have eaten better and taken care of my health better too.

Can we turn the clock back?

 

To me, "We found metal bits in the oil pan" does not equate to "you need a new engine".

Yes, putting a new engine in would fix the problem, but if the engine will still turn over, you can run a compression check or even a leak down check and that would tell you about the bottom end of the engine.

Not a Toyota (I KNOW) but I've currently got my Kid's 5.0 out of his mustang which also started running like crap and then I found a bunch of metal in the oil pan. Engine make great compression. The metal in the oil pan is the roller section of one of the roller lifters. I've pulled the engine and I'm currently disassembling it to find out what all is FUBARed, and so far I have it isolated to the lifter and possibly the camshaft. 16 New lifters and a camshaft and replacement gaskets are going to set the kid back about $800. Of course, he's at an advantage because I work for free.

It seems like no one fixes anything anymore. They just swap in a new engine/transmission/whatever and move to the next job.

To the OP Good Luck!

 

@xb4r7x

Did you buy this certified used from a Toyota dealer? If so the power train warranty is 7 years/100,000 miles.

https://www.toyotacertified.com/cer...m1iT9f7V8B143OaWYJhoC8P4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

The $6200 option from Summit seemed like a decent option until it wasn't. I'd still dump/trade that thing for something else though. Anyone remember this series?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_426-Xm4bQ

 

The OP needs to also be told that the finance company is likely then to sell the vehicle in its current state (broken) at auction for pennies on the dollar and then sue the OP to get a judgement on the vehicle deficiency plus all fees associated with the repossession, sale, and whatever else the finance paperwork lets them slap onto the amount outstanding. At some point a judge is likely to call the OP in and set up a payment plan on what could amount to more than the remaining principal on the loan.

 

Hey, do we actually know whats wrong with the engine. Like can you post a work order by chance. Could be alot of things and metal in the oil pan is not a diagnosis. As a former dealer mechanic I can say that alone does not cut it. Could be a lifter or broken valve spring even which can be remedied in frame and for miles less than the cost of the engine. At the same time I do recommend a dealership... a different one... or the Car Care Nut where ever he's located because
A.) they'll have access to updated parts as applicable along with
B.) this wouldn't be their first rodeo so they should be able to bang this out both the fastest and the right way since they only work on one brand along with having factory service manuals and technical assistance as needed. Again though find a better dealer these are the kinda guys that make all mechanics look like thieves and hacks.

 

Sniff around your area dealers. Find a mechanic that likes side work. He may have more options for you on an engine if needed. May have access to employee pricing.

 

(most) Everybody is still convincing this guy that his engine is cooked - y'all, put yourself in his shoes! There are a plethora of things that it could be - theres even a chance that the first dealer messed up and there WASNT metal in the oil pan. In my mind OP is still MILES away from a new motor. IF it ends up being the cheapest option, I'm sure he'll turn over every rock on every parts site & eBay looking to save the most money possible.

Support the guy in this awful situation - I'd want all the support I could get, not 100 internet strangers beating it into my head that my engine is roasted.

 

So did you call Toyota ?

 

I'm not advocating this as the right way to do it but if you in a pinch and have some mechanical know how you could roll new bearings into it. You said it was making a knocking sound if it's bearing related which it sounds like it is since its got glitter in the oil. Years ago when I had a lot less money my Civic developed a rod knock. I ordered OEM rod and main bearing from Honda dropped the oil pan with the engine in the car and rolled the bearing in with the crank and rods still in place. Did a couple back to back oil changes and shockingly it worked. Car is still rolling down the road been 80k since I did that ghetto repair but it only cost me a few hundred bucks in bearings and oil. Now the key to this working is the crank and rods can't be torched from spinning a bearing or welded from it locking up. If either of that happens you can't cheat it.

 

Nope. Used from Carvana.

 

Used from Carvana. Their warranty is like 100 days, 4000 miles.

 

They wouldn't tear it down to find out, and I don't really want them to because I don't want them to do the work. Their professional assumption was a spun bearing, a hole in a piston, or both.

 

They don't know the vehicle is broken and they're not going to. I'm also still making payments, soooo.