Any Updates? (1995 3RZ-FE Cranks, No Start Diagnosis)

Correct. Tested all the relays and back probed ECM using FSM troubleshooting process. Banjo’d the incoming fuel line and good fuel psi.

Ultimately, it’s getting gas, fire, and has compression. Should run unless outta time, and balancer indicates that.

I’ll know more when I pull timing cover.

 

sorry i thought you confirmed bottom end T marks

ewe
2rz/3rz's T cover is a bear think book time is 12hrs

 

Might have a trick to prevent all that work

this was 1/2 way thru my T cover (gaskets)
job



Very possible if you take off OP…..will give a large enough window to confirm bottom T marks
GL

 

I didn’t have RI head, but did have to RI oil pan

 

Shoot fire! Timing is good. So now I'm thinking not enough compression to fire. Engine does have 250,000 miles. I rechecked cranking compression, and did a leak down test. See below.

Cranking Compression:
Cylinder #1 - 120 psi
Cylinder #2 - 90 psi
Cylinder #3 - 75 psi
Cylinder #4 - 120 psi

Leak Down Test:
Cylinder #1 leak down = 75%, supplied 100psi and would only hold 25psi
Cylinder #2 leak down = 75%, supplied 100psi and would only hold 25psi
Cylinder #3 leak down = 50%, supplied 100psi and would only hold 50psi
Cylinder #4 leak down = 50%, supplied 100psi and would only hold 50psi

Has anyone seen an engine just refuse to fire because compression was too low?

 

Finally got the engine to cough/burp for about 1 sec. I had never gotten it to do anything.

Here’s what I did:
1) Filled each cylinder with about a tablespoon of 10w40 to bring up compression
2) Added about 1 teaspoon of fuel to each cylinder
3) Unhooked injectors to keep from possibly flooding it.
4) Held throttle wide open

It fired for about 1 sec

Could this be a massive vacuum leak? (I’m gonna smoke test it)

 

Time has passed. Been almost two months since I posted anything about my lovely journey with this POS. Since then, I've installed a rebuilt/reman short block, water pump, new distributor cap & rotor, plugs, fuel regulator & fuel pump, main seal, transmission seal, valve cover gasket set, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, and put everything back together. Guess what? It woudn't start. Until,...this past Saturday as I was showing my buddy how this engine had fuel & fire, but wouldn't start.

Get this, while I was showing my friend how the plugs were getting spark (#1 plug out of the motor grounded to the valve cover),...the d#$m thing started on 3 cylinders!! So, I quickly installed the plug back into the new engine, and fired it up. Ran it through a heat cycle, and then shut it back down. I had a fuel pressure gauge still attached, so I could monitor it and saw it stayed around 43psi. I was so happy. Started tidying up my work area, and let the engine cool back down. I make quite a mess when swapping a short block. After tidying up, I sat back down in the cab just so proud of myself and was going to listen to the beautiful sound of the little motor running again. I was so pleased and the world seemed right.

Guess what,...nothing. Stupid thing hasn't started since. I have no idea.

 

WTH?

ugh…..feeling your pain

I’m back on timing…firing correctly
I mean dizzy since 95.5

the only way I know how to test when my taco wouldn’t start(after RR’ng dizzy Oring)
I used a ‘non contact voltage meter’
Like $4 from HF

Put orange tool on each wire and beeped
I knew dizzy was good
After 1hr getting TDC perfect with screw driver….still would start and die

Re-stabbed dizzy and Np since

 

Just reporting back,...found the problem. It was the ignition coil. Even though it tested good on both secondary and primary sides, it must've been bad. And, even though it was putting out spark, there wasn't enough voltage at the plug. My friend let me use a "spark gap" voltage tester, and that told the tail. Now the engine starts fine. Hopefully this will help someone else out in the future. It had spark, but just not hot enough.