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Any way to prevent rust on manifold nuts?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by newfieDan, Mar 19, 2013.

  1. Mar 19, 2013 at 7:09 AM
    #1
    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Im talking about the ones in the engine bay for the exhaust manifold. I live right next to the ocean so I may as well live IN the ocean. The salt is everywhere and I have noticed that Tacomas that are 1 or 2 years old have header nuts that look like they came off the titanic. Because of the excessive heat in there, I know no "normal" rust treatment like Fluid Form or anything will so anything but burn off so...Any suggestions? :) Thanks!
     
  2. Mar 19, 2013 at 7:31 AM
    #2
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Unfortunately I have not found any type of treatment or management for rust on headers, or head bolts. The excessive heat they endure tends to prevent any product from doing any quality job of preventing rust. That being said, some people suggest spraying a penetration oil, like WD40 or PB Blaster once a month on header bolts/studs to reduce rust build up, and prevent seizure.
     
  3. Mar 19, 2013 at 8:55 AM
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    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply. The best penetrating oil I have found to date is deep creep from Seafoam so, I may try that. It's not a huge issue but damn it looks bad on a fairly new truck to see that rust. Not to mention if I keep it past warranty and ever need to remove them, that is a shit show I'd rather not be part of. Been there and done that with too many clunkers in the past.

    I swear I am tempted to use bacon grease like some people have suggested on other sites. lol If it works for Iron frying pans, why not headers? :p
     
  4. Mar 19, 2013 at 9:10 AM
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    bubba353z

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    Copper Anti Seize?
     
  5. Mar 19, 2013 at 11:40 AM
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    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Now you're talking. I have some in the garage and will be putting it on one of them to test. Will check back to see how it's holding up.

    Not a bad idea Bubba, thanks.
     
  6. Mar 19, 2013 at 11:50 AM
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    Canes58

    Canes58 Well-Known Member

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    Stainless?
     
  7. Mar 19, 2013 at 1:33 PM
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    dboz

    dboz Well-Known Member

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    Hirsch stainless steel paint will not come off. The black can take 2000 degrees. I used it on my headers about 7 years ago. Everyone said it would burn off. Still looks new with no rust. Even held up to drag racing.
     
  8. Mar 19, 2013 at 1:52 PM
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    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    there is not much you can do for manifold bolts. they will rot solid
    no matter what you do unless you change the game and use titanium
     
  9. Mar 19, 2013 at 2:18 PM
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    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That may solve the nut issue but the studs will rust and I'd still be in the same boat. Im gonna try the anti seize and see if it burns off. I will post any findings as they come in. Thanks guys.
     
  10. Mar 19, 2013 at 3:49 PM
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    bubba353z

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    You're welcome!

    Found on Permatex's website:

    Copper - 1800 degree F
    Nickel - 2400 degree F :eek:
     
  11. Mar 19, 2013 at 5:43 PM
    #11
    Failure2Comply

    Failure2Comply Old HVACR Tech

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    I use this on my genset exhaust bolts.
     
  12. Mar 19, 2013 at 5:47 PM
    #12
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Can't help you with the nuts but those Newfie fire alarms are awesome! [​IMG]
     
  13. Mar 20, 2013 at 6:08 AM
    #13
    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok first? Steve thats fuckin hilarious lol I had actually never seen that one. I've seen Doughnut seeds (cheerios in a baggie), fog in a can (empty can) and everything from an electric hammer to a two story outhouse (rent is cheap on the bottom but the view is the shits ;) but the jiffy pop fire alarm is a first.

    @DoorDing: I have used the stuff extensively. In this salty climate it is an absolute life saver. Every bolt I remove from any car is anti-seized before it's replaced. Any shop in this area that has a clue, uses it and I swear by it. It's pricey but 1 jar lasts forever. As for clean up, well, it has never been a problem. Normally I use it on brake nuts, wheels studs, ect so it doesn't matter if a little excess gets anywhere.

    I'll take a pic if it ever stops snowing long enough for me to actually apply it. First day of spring my ass. :p
     
  14. Mar 20, 2013 at 11:52 AM
    #14
    newfieDan

    newfieDan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that makes sense, I am looking to protect bare metal (especially bolt threads and nuts) from salt and corrosion, with water crossings you'd want something that simply sticks to whatever surface the best. Thanks for that tip tho, fighting rust on this truck is definitely going to take many different methods.

    P.S. I was under the hood earlier today and if that damned fuel rail is not starting to rust ALREADY! The truck has 200 km's on it. No, not 200,000.
    Just 200. :eek: You people in the south have no idea how good you have it. lol
     
  15. Mar 20, 2013 at 11:58 AM
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    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    After putting a header on a 4 model yr old truck last yr with probably 70k on it, I was fairly impressed with how unrusted they were. Sure, they weren't fresh new looking like the coating on the header but discolored and not actually rusted. Some were in better shape than others but all were in pretty good shape overall. Other than coating them with same ceramic stuff on the header, can't imagine what could keep them completely fresh looking. Of course, I am not from an actual winter area that sees any salted roads either. I'm sure that makes big difference.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Collector spring bolts look pretty good too..........

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2013

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