Any woodworkers?

I really like my rigid r4512 it’s a great little saw and an upgrade from a contractor saw but not as big of an investment as a cabinet saw.

 

I use a Grizzly 1023L for my table saw. Good saw for the money.

 

Led sled getting some work done. I love this plane.

 

Had some fun today building this taper jig with scrap shelf board from a previous project. I'll probably move the hardware to some better material if the particle board proves to be problematic.



Powertec T-track:

$21 POWERTEC 71119 Double-Cut Profile Universal T-Track with Predrilled Mounting Holes(2-Pack), 36"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075695GSL
Powertec T-track Knobs:

$9 POWERTEC 71068 T-Track Knobs with 1/4-20 by 1-1/2" Hex Bolts and Washers(Set of 10)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5WC8BK
Rockler T-track Hold Downs: http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w
Microjig Miter Bars:

$35 ZEROPLAY Miter Bars by MICROJIG (Double Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O2KVR8

 

It’ll probably be alright. Otherwise MDF and laminate it
Thanks for the links!

 

Very nice.

It is amazing what one can make from "scrap" wood...

 

Well that was short lived. It turns out the particle board doesn't hold screws well enough for the T-track to be held in against the clamping forces on the top rail. I'll have to make it out of MDF I think.

 

I thought about that, but was having a hard time finding flat head countersunk bolts. #8 or 4mm is what fits the holes in the t-track.

These are the screws I tried to use.

I just need to look harder.

 

MDF doesn't hold screws well either.

 

That's true. I think I was going to go with a different design, like a slot with a recess for the bolt on the opposite side of the panel.

 

epoxy and screws...?

 

Some years ago, I bought some MDF specialty screws - I think they came from McFeely's.

The sides of the screws were parallel, not tapered like standard screws. It seems the tapered screws act like a wedge in the MDF/particle board, forcing it to split, since the wood has no "give" in it like real wood. The parallel screws just cut for the threads. Yes, you have to pre-drill with a special bit.

The screws I got were 2" long - I don't remember if they make shorter ones or not.

For all the effort, however, you are probably better off getting a piece of plywood for your jig.

 

If you can use birch plywood or another stable plywood for jigs that you’re going to use a lot. I use MDF for quick jigs I don’t care about. But solid plywood is better overall for things like taper jigs, sleds, etc.

 

Yep, router with an edge guide. 5/16" straight bit for the 1/4" bolts on the knobs. I wanted a little clearance.

Perhaps I will end up getting birch plywood. I know the baltic birch stuff is supposed to be the creme de la creme of plywood. It's just expensive.

I need to get rid of more scrap material to make room though. It's starting to take up too much space. I have a few large sheets of 1/2" plywood sheathing that I used as shelving for some elevated storage space above our garage door hardware. Unfortunately that stuff is ugly and has so many voids that it's basically useless. Maybe I'll try to make a box to store 2x4 and 2x6 scraps vertically.

 

Yep, two passes. Spiral end mills are better for this type of cutting but straight bits will do the job.

The router is an intimidating tool but as long as you read the manual and understand feeds, speeds, and (very importantly) feed direction, you'll be fine.

In general, the safest feed direction is against the rotation of the router bit. If your feed direction is with the router bit, it is called climb cutting. This produces a better surface finish but can be dangerous as the router will want to pull away from you. If you do have to climb cut, use really shallow depth of cut and only smaller bits so you can maintain control of the tool, and always clamp the work down.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/climb-cutting

 

Sounds like a new tool that I need.

 

I've learned over the years its worth it. You make a tapering Jig out of some solid ply, it's going to last a lifetime. Some mdf, probably not.

 

Just finished a drift wood coffee table.
Completely free material co st.

 

That's neat. How did you go about leveling the glass support surface and the footing?

Large router sled?