Any woodworkers?

Id like to see a completed one to make my opinion....

 

problem I run into is you find a nice blank and its expensive, then if you snap it, you are out!...then trying to work the price of the blank into the pen its kind of hard in my area...

 

the old gal looks lonely under the new one

 

tip for inserting and glueing the sleeve in the pen blank. Stick about 1/4 of the sleeve in the drilled hole then put super glue down the side of the sleeve and then twist and turn the pen sleeve and slide down into the pen blank then align it to the depth you want. I usually try to get the pen blank about 1/16 to 1/8 inch longer than the sleeve then use the blank trimmer to square everything up. wood is a little forgiving where you have a few seconds to get into the right depth...acrylic you have maybe 1 to 2 seconds after you slide it down, otherwise your sleeve is stuck and you are pretty much done/trashed that pen blank...ask me how I know...

 

Ive never seen one like that...pretty neat!

 

thats a steal.

 

cats pretty much dont give 2 $hits...with the exception of their food dish being not full...

 

definitely worth it! I hate manual hacksaw or even angle grinder...

 

Nice! I use a dust collection system with a hose pointed at the piece I am working on. It helps a bunch. If you have a shopvac, that could work too.

 

You can’t beat a Thien Baffle or Dust Deputy. Pair either with a cheap HF dust collector and you’ll be amazed how well it works. Thien is the close to free route. You can do either with a shop vac but it’s really different CMF principles with air volume. An actual collector will make a huge difference. You can do a Thien and DC for $100-$150. Or pair the Thien with a shop vac until you save up and then build a larger version.

I went the DD route and it’s amazing.

 

lol still doesn’t get everything, but it will do a really good job collecting from the dust port or point of collection. After that you can modify your machine to limit where dust sneaks out.

 

Yes, I agree with @98tacoma27. I have a couple of Hurricane gouges and some PSI stuff. Hurricane is a lot better. But good tools do not make a good turner. Practice makes a good turner along with good technique. BTW, I’m not that good so don’t take it just at my word. I simply just don’t have time to turn that often.

 

Merry Christmas everybody!

Ok maybe just me... but I am one step closer to finishing up my box now. Got some extra stuff while I was at it.

 

For my next project I am making a bunch of picture frames. I have a sawstop cabinet saw I bought when I retired. (Wife wanted to make sure I stay busy) I build a sled to get the angles correct and some clamps and stops to get the pieces the same size. The practice frames are coming out great with the exception of some chipout.
I think I need to upgrade my blade.

Got some recommendations?

cost isn't a big deal this will probably last me forever, but as I tell my wife I don't mind spending money but I hate wasting money.

 

I’ve always had good luck with the Diablo blades you get at HD. Relatively cheap and last awhile. Get a good blade cleaner for the sap and they will last even longer. Also a zero clearance insert might help.

Other remedies are;
- a shallow under cut, then flip the piece and cut through.
- painters tape along the cut line
- a back piece butted against the piece you are cutting. Over cut into the extra piece so it can hold the actual piece so to speak.

$12 CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner, 18 oz bottle

https://www.amazon.com/CMT-Formula-...?keywords=blade+cleaner&qid=1570292681&sr=8-4

 

A backer board behind the cut will definitly help against splintering. You wouldn't be wasting your money with a Forrest blade.