Any woodworkers?

Glue them together first. When the epoxy fully cures its as tough as steel. Do one side
and after it cures you will have to sand any drips. Flip it and do the other side then sand the other drips.
After you sand it (only go up to 200) brush on a thin layer and it will magically clear up any scratch marks.

I was going to suggest looking at youtube videos. There are plenty out there.

 

If you have one available clamp them to a thicker hardwood board when you glue them up.

They look really nice by the way.

 

Glue them together, then do your pour. If you run a tyvek tape around the OD of the piece- you'll be fine. Just make damn sure you've got a good seal, or you'll dump epoxy everwhere. It's best to put a few layers of tape on it, for safety's sake.

 

A friend of mine text me yesterday, asking if I could make some "patio domios" for the bar she runs. Abso-freakin-lutely! I had some 1" pine laying around, from a shelf project that got....shelved. She wanted a couple different options, so I went with stained and raw. Sounds like they're going to want the stained pieces. Not sure how lucrative it'll be, but I'm beyond happy to see my stuff out there in the real world.

Edited because I'm an idiot that wrote dice and not dominos. Brain fart.

 

Hey guys, Question.
I have been following this thread for awhile now and I’m gonna start building some MDF cabinets for my laundry room. I am only using MDF because we are painting everything white. So my question is how have you guys found luck jointing the wall together?
Glue, nails, screws?
Or should I move to a wood plywood?

 

Get a kreg jig. I've joined MDF, wood and even delrin with great results.

 

With Kreg Softwood screws I’m guessing? For mdf.

 

MDF absorbs water and swells. Even when painted, though it takes longer. Realistically, not the best choice.

When screwing it together, you don’t want to use tapered screws. As the screw expands, it compresses the wood (expands the hole). But, MDF does not expand, it cracks. Use straight sided screws. (Available from McFeely’s)

 

Would you still use the straight sided screws if switching to a birch plywood?

 

I would pre-drill and countersink whichever screws you do use....as said above already with the jig. Lol never mind. I should really read all the posts....

 

Personally I would glue AND screw. I glue pretty much everything I build. Also agree to use ply instead of MDF. The Kreg shelf pin jig is a good buy too. It’s an easy way to have a more traditional shelf system inside your cabinets.

 

this

 

For painted surfaces, I would use Virola plywood instead of Birch. It’s strong and has a better price. Normally you can find it at Home Depot or Lowe’s

 

Personally I wouldn't use MDF for anything I actually wanted to last. Plywood is the answer. Even painting it go with cabinet grade, your results will be much nicer.

 

My limited experience with mdf is....dont use it. It cuts nice but throws lots of dust then it absorbs moisture...causing warps.

 

or ballooning pockets and separation if not sealed. hmmm, how do i know this?

 

Here are some cabinets we built as additional pantry space. Boxes were built from cabinet grade birch plywood. Faces and doors from poplar since the plan was always to paint. They are 22 inches deep and reach all the way to an 8 foot ceiling. Gave us TONS more storage space!

 

This.
I typically only use MDF for jigs and forms for steam bending.

 

Guy I work for want me to make a chair rail by cutting a closet rod in half..... in a million dollar house.