Any woodworkers?

It's that old Craftsman that I got when my neighbor passed away a couple of years ago.. been fighting this bitch ever since. 1974 Model haha... first time I even tried to used it at a 45 and not only will it not go that far.. but it hits the metal cover piece at about 52 degrees. Not sure it was ever a good saw.

 

o_0 how crazy out of whack is the alignment on it? I have to imagine something heavy and cast iron is broken order for it to be that far off.

 

Might be a stop peg on the dial thats out of adjustment if it has one. Underneath

 

Yeah mine has a collar with a set screw on the screw thread that tilts the blade that you can theoretically move to stop the tilt mechanism at a certain angle, might be worth checking that. Moved mine way out past 45 so it’d never get in the way, since I have a decent enough angle gauge.

 

Nothing is broken... and the stop is all the way maxed out.
Even if I remove the stop completely it won't get to 45 degrees.

 

Thoughts?

 

I have the folding rigid. Id say it does what i need. If i had the space id get a more solid one. Mine will go to 45° on independent angle guage. but its a little loose. Which could be partially to there being no support to the top of the board. The drive shaft does seem a little loose.

 

I have a Ridgid 4511 with the granite top. I like it for what it is. I bought it for $500 (11 years ago) which is where I can justify for a tool that doesn't get near enough work. My saw has a moveable base like the one pictured, somewhat useful, but a TS doesn't get moved that much imo. My angle adjust is on the left side of the saw (left tilt saw)

 

@tomwilson74
Tom are you also a member over on woodbarter? I saw your table there too. Nice to see you here and there, lol.

 

Yeah, I just posted a pic over there.

 

So, I went with the wood conditioner, minwax and satin poly on top. Once my swatches dried for a few days, I actually liked the effect so we're sticking with it. I had my friend laser my logo on the bottom of the box. I was hoping it would catch more stain; I was going for more of an authentic wood burned look, but I'm still quite happy for this being my first box. I'll be putting felt in the bottom and painting the top.

The bottom of the box, I was having trouble getting some of those soft wood fibers sanded down. I was sanding with the grain but they just wouldn't come out. If I need to approach that differently, let me know!

Thank you guys again for all the previous advice!

 

If you want some more contrast with your seal on the (bottom?) Fill in with black crayon or whatever color, then wipe it even with microfiber rag to wipe off the excess

 

When final sanding spray the wood with water from a spray bottle.. it'll slightly raise the grain and you can sand that to perfection.

 

@wilcam47

So.. this was achieved




only because I got my head out of my ass and figured out the problem...



Some bracket on the back that was hitting the workbench ... don't even know what it is for.. but a quick use of the jigsaw fixed the problem.

 

Assuming I'm looking at it from the correct angle, that'd be for the splitter/bladeguard, which you don't have fitted, so I'd say you could probably remove everything off the rod that sticks out the back of the saw (and might be able to remove the rod from the inside, and seal that hole).

 

Thanks for the Idea!

I've already notched the 2x4 so it's no longer an issue but it is annoying!

 

Somehow I stopped getting notifications for this thread yet again. But I am back with some questions.

I’m reframing my on grade deck. The 4 corner posts are sunk INTO concrete footers but they are still very solid and I do not see any rot around the base. I plan to reuse these but I’d like to make them last. What kind of treatment of coating can I slather on the base of these posts to keep them from rotting out for another 20 yrs or so?

 

If you want post to last 20 years set in concrete or in the ground I would suggest lots of prayers!
Roofing tar might slow it down somewhat but no matter what you do water is going to get in between the concrete and the wood and it's going to rot. I doubt a new deck top will last 20 years anyway.

 

Some of the newer/better/higher priced composite decking comes with a 50 year warranty. I know its not 50 years later ( I'd be dead if it was) but my new deck is a year old and looks like I finished it yesterday. I used this decking: in the "Warm Sienna " color. Some of the be best money we have ever spent!
Composite Decking Boards & Fascia | Concordia Decking - Symmetry and Horizon Collections (fiberondecking.com)