Any woodworkers?

Think about this.........if you settle for what you can find right now you may be disappointed with the performance. Be patient, any equipment is hard to come buy right now. You may have to order one and then wait for it. I have friends in the power equipment business, I stopped in last wee to say hi and b.s. awhile. I asked where's all the new equipment? They said we can't get anything right now. This problem is with anything we purchase right now. It's not just cars.

 

Totally understand the supply problem... most of the issue is that these places I've been to don't ever carry the bigger saws... but I'll keep looking and likely asking questions!

 

Does anyone know where I can take Table pieces to have them planed (or sanded). I've got 4 sections, roughly 42" x 22". I know Wane + Fitch does this but they want $280. That seems a bit excessive

 

Check with the local high schools.

 

How do you guys clean the rollers in your thickness planer? I use mineral spirits but it seems there could be an easier way than trying to turn them by hand.

 

This is prefaced with anytime you reach into your thickness planer that the product must be turned off and unplugged. With that said, I will clean what I can reach with a rag and mineral spirits. Ill plug it back in and turn it on for a second to let it run, then unplug and repeat the cleaning process. Ill repeat this about 4 times and that satisfies me but of course, your mileage may vary. Important takeaways is to make sure your planer is unplugged before reaching into the mechanism.

-J

 

How often do you clean the rollers. I feel I must have been neglecting mine. Ugh.

 

Hi fellas (and gals), I don't think I've ever posted here and I will follow with some pics when not at work. So, I like older tools and equipment (USA Iron) for most things and have been grabbing stuff when I can to add to the refurb/TLC list. I recently scored a Rockwell 10" contractor saw with stamped wings and sheet metal legs. I believe it is from the late 70s. Has the USA made badges on the saw and the motor. So, what I am looking for is if any of you guys (and gals) have fitted a riving knife to the saw that moves with the blade. I saw the shark guard and it is a viable solution but steep for having a manual "almost" riving knife. I won't run the saw until I have one. This is my first table saw, but I have been running table saws for 17 years or so. My Dad has a Delta contractor saw (new enough to have a riving knife) and we had a nice 50 some inch cast iron tabled Saw Stop with extensions and outfeed extensions at my last job, and this doesn't include all of the portable table saws at job sites. The riving knife, to me, is the most important safety component on the modern table saws.

I am thinking of going between the blade and the front trunnion with sheet metal that has a hole to go around the arbor assembly and extends to the back of the blade. Then having a stainless riving knife bolted to the plate so that it moves with the blade and in theory, of the knife is correct, won't ever have a need to remove it. But I wanted to see if anybody else came up with something so I don't have to disassemble a saw that has never been apart since it was factory assembled 40 some odd years ago, and drill mounting holes in the front trunnion.



Not my saw, but looks identical and in similar condition. This is a little nicer. I have limited garage space and access to my Dad's Delta, so a table saw was never on my radar, but one cannot pass on a proper vintage USA made saw for $50. I'm pretty sure even if I had one at the time I would have still bought it.

 

My understanding is that it’s not possible due to how it was designed, to attach a true Irving knife to an older saw. There are a few aftermarket options that work somewhat, although I’ve never tried any of them.
I had that very saw for 25 years and it did good work and I never had the kind of kickback that you are trying to avoid.
That being said, upgrade to a cabinet saw as soon as you can. I feel that I wasted a couple of decades thinking I just had no skills, then on a lark, I bought a Unisaw, now I’m making fine furniture that I never thought I had the skills for.

 

I think woodcraft sells a splitter that attaches to the throat plate. I used a craftsman contractor style saw like the one you purchased for 40 years and it didn't have a splitter. But my new laguna cabinet saw has a great riving knife and a blade guard that I actually use because it works!

 

MJ splitter is what I use.

 

Wanted to pop in and say thank you guys for the advice when I was working on my dice boxes! I got the first one done last night; it has some flaws in the painting on top, but I needed one for an upcoming giveaway so it'll be perfect for that.

I ended up going with minwax and satin varnish. Finished the bottom with some felt.
Bought 2 more colors to play around with. I'll have to see if these sell well enough to invest in more colors down the road.

 

The amount of times I use mine, I think I've cleaned it twice - about once every other year. Once I notice slippage, excessive snipe, and blade marks on the wood will let me know that it's time to clean the rollers. If you're not planing a lot of sapwood, you might never need to clean your rollers. I did a lot of planing of pine when I was getting started which expedited the gummage (yeah, I made that word up).

-J

 

starting a fall project in my garage, have played a carpenter for many years, and done a lot of finish work, but am currently undertaking a cedar strip canoe build that is a whole different set of skills. Ive got my table built, and my forms cut, now im learning ALOT about how to ruin expensive pieces of wood while steam bending.

So far ive snapped a good amount of pine, hickory, and mahogany because i couldnt get things clamped up fast enough before it cooled off. The ones i did get bent had so much spring back after i removed them from the clamps they snapped when i tried to reclamp them gluing them uRebuilt a new jig that should allow me to move quicker. Picked up a big chunk of ash to cut up and try out also.

If anyone has any tips for steam bending laminated wood pieces, im all ears. Current plan is to soak my 1/4" strips for a couple days, then steam them for 20 minutes, then haul ass to get them clamped and wedged in my latest form.

 

I follow this guy on Instagram who just built a whole canoe seaman_custom_builds - Check him out of you get a chance.. not likely to get many answers to your technical questions, but definitely some inspiration!

 

Boat progress… still soaking my stem strips for steaming/bending day Friday, so I got the main forms set up and started arranging my cedar to pattern the sides. Think I figured out a pattern I like, but I’m sure I’ll rearrange it

 

@brow very cool, keep posting the progress on this. I've always wanted to do one but just don't have the space, I have too much wood in the way, lol.

 

will do, I definitely put myself in a tough spot with timing it, I need to try and get it fiber glassed before the weather turns too cold in minnesota since im working in an unheated garage, and i dont get my parking spot back until its done either. I get about 2 hours each night to mess with it once the kids are in bed, so its definitely a slow moving process.