Any woodworkers?

I put several boards from my shop in the house to acclimate. On average, how long would you guys leave them inside for this. My shop has no heat or AC. I have a Trane heat pump in the house. The boards are walnut, 5/4 and are dry. They were cut over 50 years ago.

 

Fun little thread here! I have no woodworking experience, but took on the challenge of building a computer desk last week. Still has to be sanded and stained, but pretty much looks similar to Wilcam's piece above! Great work all!

 

do you have a moisture meter?

 

Yeah, not a great one though. I’ve had a few jewelry boxes and charcuterie boards warp a bit after bringing them in the house. I had the lumber in my shop and built them but didn’t bring the lumber in to acclimate it before hand.

 

id let it sit for at least a couple weeks then. even put a fan on it. think about how long that warping took to develop with your boxes and boards.

 

Love the end table.... I guess that's what it is, not sure lol. How'd you do the texturing? just a powercarved? And did you torch that finish on like shou shugi ban style?

 

I'd think a day or two should be fine. I know with flooring they typically say to let it acclimate for up to a week, but that can sometimes be bundled up etc. Air flow will help.
Is it already milled or are you plaining/jointing after it's acclimated?

 

Thanks!
yeah its just an end table. bout 12x12x18" block of walnut. gas pipe legs.
I used an angle grinder and one of those shaping rounds to gouge out the texture. torched it with map gas. scrubbed it with a plastic brush and applied linseed/terp finish. sanded top and bottom to a polish. easy peasy.

 

Haven’t milled it yet. It’s been in the house since Monday.

 

I’m in the process of assembling my HF 14” bandsaw. I decided to change a few things while I’m at it, such as Accu-Link belts and urethane tires. I took the top wheel off, muscled on the tire and put the wheel back on. Trouble is, I don’t know tight the nut is supposed to be. It contacts the inner race of a bearing. If I spin the wheel and tighten the nut finger tight, the wheel spins freely. If I put a socket on it and go a 1/8 turn it slows the wheel down noticeably. Any more than that it stops. Is finger tight sufficient? How tight should this nut be?

 

I like it! Am I the only one who saw this when I looked at the table?

 

I was just going to say, let it acclimate before you send it thru the planer or what have you. Last thing you'd want would be to get it down to thickness then have it curve a hockey stick into it. I bet you're good to go any time now.

 

Id assume it would have to be free spinning. So put some blue thread locker on it

 

pressing on the inner race with the nut wouldn't slow it down. the wheel rides on the outer race. I would check behind the wheel to see if anything is pressing on that outer race as you tighten the nut. I would be super nervous to use a band saw with a hand-tightened wheel, thread locker or not.
also, it looks like the wheel is much wider than your single bearing. likely there is another on the other side, which means there should be a sleeve between the two to prevent side loading. if you pulled it off, it may have been easy to miss the sleeve if it stayed in the wheel between the bearings and dropped out of position when you removed the wheel

 

Thanks! I'll take a look this morning. I'm being extra careful when I remove something to either put the hardware back on immediately or put it in a special box. It's frustrating to lose a part that you had in-hand minutes before. I don't remember a sleeve but that doesn't mean there's not one. I'll also look for a parts diagram.

Edit - well, crap. Found the diagram and there are several retaining rings. I don't remember those and there are no extra parts laying about. I'll know more once I can get out there and pull the wheel off. I hope I just put the rings back on when I removed the wheel, and when I put it back on didn't remove them first. I'd feel stupid but at least they would be there and I'd be good to go.

 

FFS! Frack. I pulled the wheel and there was 1 washer/spacer there (see 2nd pic below). I went back to the schematic and zoomed in. The two rings (part #12) are C clips, not washers, and in the drawing go inside the wheel hub. There is no washer or spacer between the nut and the bearing in the schematic. In fact, the washer/spacer I did find isn't even listed on the schematic.

I was hoping to avoid calling them, as I see hours of phone trees, hold muzac and unhelpful people ahead.

 

if that washer is the same diameter as your spindle, I would guess it slides on before the wheel to keep it from making contact and rubbing. worth a look.

 

I built this out of wood.
I am not a builder, just a weekend warrior. (About 100 weekends!)

 

I'm on hold. I've looked at schematics on-line for Grizzly and Delta 14" saws (almost exactly the same as the HF) and neither show a washer on the top wheel. I wonder if HF added the washer because an issue was found after production and have not updated their diagram? I may go to the hardware store and pick up another one and see if that does it.

While typing this someone picked up. He agrees the washer I found isn't listed and is reaching out to someone else. I also explained the issue with friction when tightening the nut.