Any woodworkers?

Umm... plural???

 

It may be a case of "plug-in" tool...

 

I wondered when the ‘wood’ and ‘tool’ discussion would turn into a “that’s what she said” discussion.

 

I have all DeWalt, my husband has all Milwaukee. No complaints about either other than im jealous of his quiet impact drill. Every time I use mine he goes ‘BAAAAAHP!’ as loud as he can mimicking it

 

This screams 1.5Ah battery for some reason

 

They make battery adapters now so you do have some options to not be stuck with one brand color. I'd have to assume tho that the youd hafta stick in the same voltage (ie all 18v) as I'm not sure how a Dewalt 20v tool using a Ryobi 18v batter would fair.

Cordless is definitely nice, but it can come at a cost... tools are sometimes heavier, sometimes not as powerful. If you're using them all over the place then there's definitely value there, but if you're staying in your shop having a small air compressor, and a small variety of lighter air nailers will be cheaper than picking up a cordless pin and brad nailer. Also corded sanders can be a good option for weight and power.

I'd just stay away from the generic 8 tool kits, unless you need everyone of the tools, you're usually paying for something you're not going to use **Coughcough** cordless handheld vacuum **coughcough**

 

Another reason I went with Dewalt was the constant sales at Home Depot and online for batteries. If you are patient you can score batteries at low cost.

 

Thanks! I’m thinking of staying corded on the table saw, miter saw, and air compressor/nailer (all part of a rolling workbench) but would like cordless for drill, driver, circular saw, sander, router, whatever else I think I need (‘need’ being a flexible word).

 

An argument both for and against cords on the heavier draw tools.

I have had this SkilSaw for at least 15 years. It survived cutting 8 ft to trim the edge of a 1.5 in thick workbench top (dying cats sound better than that cut ... talk about fear of "binding"!). And that loopback bit in the cord is one time I was NOT paying attention to where the cord was after finishing a cut.

So take this for what you want ... argument for or argument against.

 

Lots of good recommendations here. If you want to see some scientific research on various products check out this youtube.com channel*:

https://www.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm

*I am not responsible for how many hours you lose to checking out this You Tube channel.

 

It will be many hours, ask me how I know. LOL

 

You should check this out then.

 

I do not make enough anymore to justify that. In the past I built:

Basement shelves, 8 ft tall 6 ft long 2 ft deep. Loosely tied into floor joists.
Basement U-shaped shelves built into an otherwise useless space. 7 ft deep, 5 ft wide, 18 inch deep side 3 ft deep bottom.
Basement 8 ft long and 4 ft short leg L-shaped work bench.
15 ft computer desk, 3 pieces for transport, 70 degree leg for stability. 3 ft tall 2 ft wide.
6 ft tall 4 ft wide bookshelf.
Garage 12 ft long 8 ft tall 18 in deep to keep things off floor when snowy in winter.
2 ft tall 20 degree angled stands for holding workout weights (I can stand on it!)

Now I fire up that circular saw for about 20 cuts a month at most.

 

.
...^^^... Super cool site ...

 

I finally got to one of them this past weekend

 

Anyone made table legs not using a lathe? What design did you use?

 

How dangerous are you feeling?



-J

 

If this is for your small table, here is a method I used to make thin legs reinforced ... crossbeams are notched into each other to be flat, and there are notches at 45 degrees cut into the legs so the cross-beams embed into 1/2 of the leg itself and the combined unit is stronger. I am sure your finish-effect will not have the flaws at the cross-over point or in the rough-cut into the legs.

 

Thats awesome and scary.