Any woodworkers?

I made a base from laminated 6/4 white oak. One long member down the middle, and two side members dovetailed into the middle one:

Legs are white oak, tapered and pillowed, with twin tenons for attaching to the base:

This was all done using hand tools only. I think it came out pretty well:

 

Absolutely gorgeous!

 

Very nice work. Really like the shop also.

 

Tips on lightening dark knots in pine before staining?

 

My girlfriend wouldn't stop bugging me to buy a yard game called Kubb. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubb
They run about $30+ for a crappy set, so I decided to make a nicer set instead. I still need to make the throwing batons. But otherwise it's done.

Also pictured is 6 black die that will become Yahtzee.

 

I'm not sure what I'm going to do for that yet. I have a set of templates for numbers that I could use.

My other thought was drilling 1/2" holes and filling them with dyed epoxy.

 

Do you have a 1/2" Round Nose router bit?

$29 Freud 18-116: 1/4" Radius Round Nose Bit with 1/2" Shank

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-18-116-Diameter-Round-Router/dp/B00004T7DL

 

Wow all of you guys have such cool stuff, everything is so nice looking. I've never been much for working the dead tree carcasses but I love metalwork. Gonna try my hand at some garage shelving and a cabinetry soon though. Still gotta have a metal workbench otherwise I think I'd set it alight.

 

I think I do... somewhere in the router bit drawer.... if not I can order one. What are you thinking?

 

Plunge the bit in about 1/4" to make the hole/divot for the dice. Would definitely need to make a jig to be safe. Or do the contrasting wood dowel, that would ultimately be easier.

 

Thoughts on attaching table top to apron? Do you guys recommend the zclips?
If so would you use those in the middle too are just around the apron?

 

I typically pocket screw.

 

How do you deal with expansion/warpage?

 

how light are you looking? You can use a bleach powder and 40% peroxide mixture for animal skulls so it should theoretically work on wood. You would have to try a test piece.

 

...i'm currently building built-in bookcases, ...my approach to built-ins is to make sure not to go overboard, ..try to keep trim/styles fairly complimentary w/ the existing trim/style found throughout the room/house... i've been sticking to transitional type designs (fairly simple trim, rectilinear features w/ the occasional curve, etc...)

...you'll have to decide if you're going to do the bookcase w/ all fixed shelves, all adjustable shelves, or some combination (i.e. fixed upper, mid, and lower) and adjustable in-between those sections... the ones i'm building are 8 foot tall, so i'm doing a fixed shelf at mid span, and drilling holes for the adjustable ones... i'm using the veritas shelf-drilling jig (lee valley sells it), and i'm very surprised how well it is going with this... versatile jig made of quality parts (aluminum, brass, several hardened steel bushing/guides), ..i set up the spacing between rows of holes, then set the offset from the reference edge, lock that in, ...then as you advance along the case side panel (jig is about 24" long?), just unlock two brass knobs, move it, index w/ a brass index pin, ...and re-tighten the knobs, ..it stays in place very well, ..and you're always consistent offset from your reference edge...

 

I don't.

That is probably a better solution.